TN: Kelly and Kevin’s excellent adventure before WWS 2012 - 05 Rayas and 12 Truffle report

KELLY AND KEVIN’S EXCELLENT ADVENTURE BEFORE WWS 2012 - La Morra (11/4/2012)

Bless my wife and I really feel bad, this is my first night in Piedmont. The trip has been uneventful thankfully. Kelly’s flight got delayed a bit and we got to La Morra around 6:30.
Ristorante Bovio
We just had a dinner at Bovio. Since we want to acclimate into white truffle slowly we only order one truffle dish per person but what an introduction, “egg, clime and copious amount of white truffle’. There was a center piece that was the size of a duck egg. We shared two bottles wine that complement the dinner well.

  • 1990 Domenico Clerico Barolo Pajana - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
    Expressive nose of black fruits, ash, tar, licorice, perfume and earth. This is a masculine and rustic wine with still significant tannins. Although very enjoyable, very angular. (92 pts.)
  • 2001 Produttori del Barbaresco Barbaresco Riserva Moccagatta - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco
    As Kelly commented, bright red fruits, cherry liquor, asphalt, scorched earth and plum. Bright acidity, tar, earth and noticeable tannins. Good but not great. (91 pts.)

First night, eight more to go!
Posted from CellarTracker

Sounds like a good trip. Hope you find good wines with some age and maturity. Enjoy!

your wife must truly be a saint, Kevin!

Lucky men. I have only been to Bovio once and loved it and plan to visit again soon. We had the truffle degustation finishing with balsamic truffle ice cream. Yum.

Visit to Giacomo Conterno
What a beautiful day in Barolo! Our first visit was with Roberto Conterno, really passionate yet very friendly. We toured his immaculate facility then had a nice tasting. As some of you know, the decision to make Monfortino is done at the vineyard. Robert loves burgundy and his Francia vineyard’s terroir is unique resulting in no Cascina Francia in 2002 as all Barolo was made into the 02 Monfortino and no Monfortino in 2007. I commented how great the 07 CF is and Roberto pointed out the obvious reason, ie no Monfortino. He recently acquired 3 hectares in Cerretta vineyard and is making wines since 2008 although 2010 will be the first vintage of Barolo as the 08 and 09 were declassified. It was a fun visit and I was very impressed with the subtle, detailed yet energetic and powerful nature of his wines.

  • 2010 Giacomo Conterno Barbera d’Alba Cerretta - Italy, Piedmont, Alba, Barbera d’Alba (11/5/2012)
    Dark, blueberries, a hint of licorice and a hint of raisin. Excellent concentration, nice round texture and good acidity. The fruit is sweet, forward and generous. The only wine that didn’t show strong Roberto’s signature, nevertheless delicious. (90 pts.)
  • 2010 Giacomo Conterno Barbera d’Alba Cascina Francia - Italy, Piedmont, Alba, Barbera d’Alba (11/5/2012)
    More subtle and complex compare to the Ceretta version. From this wine on, all seems Burgundian until the 05 Monfortino. Blue fruits, cedar, tar, earth and noticeable minerality. Medium concentration, subtle palate and noticeable but nicely integrated tannins. Delicious now. (93 pts.)
  • 2009 Giacomo Conterno Langhe Nebbiolo Cerretta - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Langhe DOC (11/5/2012)
    Refined and subtle, very Burgundian nose displaying flowers, strawberry with a hint of blue fruits, chestnut and tar. Medium concentration, sweet palate and noticeable tannins. Nice wine with Roberto’s signature all over. (91 pts.)
  • 2008 Giacomo Conterno Barolo Cascina Francia - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo (11/5/2012)
    Almost yellow fruits, light caramel, rapsberrry, raisin and tar. Beautifully detailed, mineral, polished and according to Roberto very complete. Not a powerful wine but beautiful and perhaps a mini Monfortino. (96 pts.)
  • 2005 Giacomo Conterno Barolo Riserva Monfortino - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo (11/5/2012)
    Definitely a Monfortino but close resemblance to the 08 CF, just deeper tone and more of tar, rose, iron and balsamico. Still quite open, not big and impressive but seamless. Beautiful silky texture and noticeable tannins. (96 pts.)

WWS 2012?

If this is the Kelly I know, then I might might be right. [wink.gif]

Have fun!

WWS 2012 = http://www.worldwinesymposium.com/uk/

Don’t worry, Nancy. They are threatening to come over and drink mine on Wednesday. And lads: please be advised that this is the worst year for white truffles in at least a decade, due to lack of rain. On the other hand, it has been a stunning year for mushrooms. Eat fungi porcini for every meal, and also ovuli and finferli whenever you can find them…

Have fun Kevin, and keep notes coming as you can, delightful to read about the great adventure.

Salud,

Mike

Mine looks more exciting, though that location is nice.

Visit to Elio Grasso
Our second visit was at Elio Grasso. Gianluca kindly received us. From the terrace, he showed us all different vineards and explained that the vineyards with red leaves are dolcetto, with yellow are barbera and still green are nebbiolo which I found really interesting and education. Then he proceed to show his facility including the cave that was constructed only a few years ago. The first cave is where he keeps the French barrels and the second is where he keeps the bottles to be released, both are temperature and humidity control. He is a firm believer of organic farming.

  • 2011 Elio Grasso Langhe Nebbiolo Gavarini - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Langhe DOC (11/5/2012)
    Fresh, animal, spicy, blueberry and raspberry, reminds me a Beaujolais with structure. All stainless steel. (87 pts.)
  • 2010 Elio Grasso Barbera d’Alba Vigna Martina - Italy, Piedmont, Alba, Barbera d’Alba (11/5/2012)
    50% new and 50% one year old French oak. A hint of oak, violet, red fruits, candies cherry and sweet spices. (89 pts.)
  • 2006 Elio Grasso Barolo Riserva Vigna Rüncot - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo (11/5/2012)
    Explosive vinous nose of flower, cherries, red fruits, caramel and mint. Excellent concentration and mouth puckering tannins. Very impressive and built to age. (95 pts.)

Trattoria della Posta - 12:30
Both Roberto and Gianluca recommend Trattoria della Posta so no brainer and Gianluca kindly made a reservation for us. The restaurant was beautifully situated and since the weather was so nice, we sat outside to enjoy the sun and beautiful view. I had the grilled porcini which was superb followed by confit of goose leg which was quite good.

  • 2009 Braida (Giacomo Bologna) Barbera d’Asti Ai Suma - Italy, Piedmont, Asti, Barbera d’Asti (11/5/2012)
    Big wine with 16% alcohol that is still balanced relatively speaking. Blackberry liquor, spice and earth. Chewy palate with good acidity. Big scale, big frame wine. (91 pts.)
  • 2006 Produttori del Barbaresco Barbaresco - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco (11/5/2012)
    Apparently no single vineyard barbaresco was made in 2006. Start tight, pure, bright red fruits and anise. It opened up nicely, more expressive red fruits, cherry liquor,cedar and a hint of pine. Subtle silky palate, refine and precise. An excellent buy as this is a serious barbaresco. (92 pts.)

Visit to Vajra - 3:30
Francesca kindly received us. She was very charming and it was evident that she is very passionate about wine.

  • 2011 G.D. Vajra Langhe Riesling - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Langhe DOC (11/5/2012)
    It was opened a day before and the nose was a bit mute. However the palate displayed excellent mineral expression and bright acidity. Kelly mentioned more in line with Austrian Riesling. Nose 85, palate 90. (87 pts.)
  • 2010 G.D. Vajra Langhe Nebbiolo - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Langhe DOC (11/5/2012)
    Sweet cherry fruit, strawberry, red fruits, stemmy and earth. Good acidity and drinking well. (88 pts.)
  • 2008 G.D. Vajra Barolo Bricco delle Viole - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo (11/5/2012)
    A bit tight, cherry fruit, licorice, mineral and raw mushroom. Medium concentration, a bit tight and noticeable tannins make the wine slightly austere. Need time. (92 pts.)
  • 2008 G.D. Vajra Barolo Cerretta Luigi Baudana - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo (11/5/2012)
    Beautiful nose displaying sweet red fruits, strawberry, licorice and anise. Rounder palate than the Bricco Delle Viole. Quite subtle and complex expression. (93 pts.)
  • 2009 G.D. Vajra Langhe Freisa Kyè - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Langhe DOC (11/5/2012)
    Apparently an ancient, indigenous grape. Violet, black pepper, tobacco and blueberry jam. It reminds me of Syrah. Big scale wine with noticeable tannins. Very interesting. (91 pts.)
  • 2009 G.D. Vajra Barbera d’Alba Superiore - Italy, Piedmont, Alba, Barbera d’Alba Superiore (11/5/2012)
    Blue fruits, Blueberry jam, lavender, minerality and earth. Chewy and big with noticeable glycerin like mouthfeel. It is not unlike the Voerzio version in sweet fruits and scale. (91 pts.)

Hi Kevin, that’s a decent program for a day - where did you end up for dinner ?

Kevin, if you get back to della posto, be sure to have the vitello tonnatto - fabulous!

Kevin, Keep it coming. I am envious and living vicariously as my Piedmont trip this fall was scrapped. Glad you enjoyed della Posta. Cheese cart there is amazing, and I love the agnolotti al plin ?sp? there.

Hope you enjoy the rest of your trip.

Best,

Todd

Maureen,
We have been traveling with Moritz Rogosky, the proprietor of Il Caberlot, fashion designer from paris, passionate and knowledgeable wine and all around nice guy. He had vitello tonnatto with white truffle at Bovio. I had it a few years back which was wonderful but not in this trip so far. All the meals have been exceptional, all classical Piedmontese dishes. I have been concentrating more on Porcini than Truffle. [wow.gif]

Kelly,Kevin,Wilfred

We arrive at Villa D 'Este tomorrow around 3 PM. Try to find us if there

Locanda Dell’Arco - 8:00
The dinner was at Locanda Dell’Arco which was recommended and reserved by Gianluca. A small restaurant that is remotely located in Cissone, worth the pain of getting there. A soft spoken proprietor told us the limited choices of pastas and main dishes. I had Taglierini with porcini then guineafowl in cream and hazelnut sauce and both were wonderful.

  • 1990 Poderi Aldo Conterno Barolo Bricco Bussia Cicala - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo (11/5/2012)
    We ordered thinking that this is the regular Cicala bottling. Still opaque, dark baked fruits, fig, earth, licorice, raisin and tar. Big scale, very ripe clearly reflecting the vintage, earth and a hint of flower at the end. Not a bad wine but too ripe for me. (90 pts.)
  • NV Jacques Selosse Champagne Brut Initiale - France, Champagne (11/5/2012)
    A small restaurant in a small town but…. Jacques Selosse Rose for 160 euros as well as Coulée de Serrant, wow! We order the rose to the nightcap. Unfortunately sold out and he brought to us Blanc de Noirs La Cote Faron. Not knowing the price, I just ordered the initial. Disgorged in 2008, yellow fruits, quite round, sweet, peach, smoke, pink grapefruit, clove and mineral. Round sweet palate, small bubbles and nice acidity. Very enjoyable. Unfortunately he charged 160 euros, the same price as the Rose. I should have ordered La Cote Faron. (93 pts.)

Visit to Vietti - 10:30
Our first visit was at Vietti. As we drove up, I noticed a lady driving who was looking at me. I immediately recognized that she was our waitress at Trattoria della Posta, deja vu. There was a bit of confusion as Viettii seemed to be a very common sir name in castiglione falletto. We eventually arrived at five to ten and a lady came out and told us that the appointment was at ten thirty. So we walked down a few blocks to a café and what a small world, our waitress lady was there. She recognized us as greeted us.

Our visit was with Elena, the wine of Luca. As usual she was very friendly and happy to guide the tour the facility. Since the winery was in a historic district, they dug three floor down and there was a narrow tunnel to the main tower which was blocked and although I am not terribly claustrophobic I was a bit nervous walking a bit to reach a small chamber. We finally got to the tasting room where we tasted a number of wines. Although I wasn’t too familiar with the winery, I really enjoyed the style of the winery which is quite pretty. I also like the expression of the vintage 08 for Baroli which is approachable and precise.

  • 2011 Vietti Dolcetto d’Alba Tre Vigne - Italy, Piedmont, Alba, Dolcetto d’Alba (11/6/2012)
    Fresh and user friendly, red fruits and violet, a good quaffer. (87 pts.)
  • 2010 Vietti Barbera d’Alba Tre Vigne - Italy, Piedmont, Alba, Barbera d’Alba (11/6/2012)
    Bright, delicate and pretty, soft red fruits and the essence of strawberry. Medium body, bright acidity and soft tannins. Nice detail, warm and pretty wine. If you want something pretty and easy to enjoy, this is very nice. (90 pts.)
  • 2010 Vietti Barbera d’Alba Scarrone - Italy, Piedmont, Alba, Barbera d’Alba (11/6/2012)
    Bigger, sweet and more obvious fruits than the tre vigne. The vineyard which is in front of the winery used to have nebbiolo vine but twenty five years ago, they decided to plant Barbera instead which some folks thought was crazy. Blueberry jam, spicy, a hint of oak, salt and mineral. Excellent concentration and minerality. This is a bigger scale wine than the 10 tre vigne but not necessarily better for me. (89 pts.)
  • 2009 Vietti Barbera d’Alba Vigna Vecchia Scarrone - Italy, Piedmont, Alba, Barbera d’Alba (11/6/2012)
    From 85 year old vines, more round and subtle than the scarrone. Black fruits, spicy, licorice and mineral. The similar concentration as the scarrone but rounder, subtler and a bit more complex. (91 pts.)
  • 2009 Vietti Barbera d’Asti La Crena - Italy, Piedmont, Asti, Barbera d’Asti (11/6/2012)
    Strawberry, menthol, lead pencil, a hint of oak and minerality. Nice complex nose and precise. (91 pts.)
  • 2009 Vietti Langhe Nebbiolo Perbacco - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Langhe DOC (11/6/2012)
    This is declassified Barolo. Strawberry, red fruits, spicy, sap and cedar. Nice mineral expression. Drinking nicely and definitely a baby Barolo. (91 pts.)
  • 2008 Vietti Barolo Castiglione - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo (11/6/2012)
    Pretty, round, mineral and subtle. Warm red fruits, strawberry and cedar. It is already approachable, fine detail and precision. Not a big wine but very enjoyable. (92 pts.)
  • 2008 Vietti Barolo Rocche - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo (11/6/2012)
    The first single vineyard wine made since 1961. Clearly bigger than the castiglione but also round and excellet balance. Licorice, sap, tar, a bit of oak and limestone. Generous round palate, excellent concentration, noticeable but sweet fine tannins. Very impressive. (95 pts.)