Help Plan My Beer Trip (Brussels, Cologne, Bamberg, Munich)

[Brian G r a f s t r o m]

Hey all,

My wife, me, and a good friend will be going on a (mostly) beer-centric trip in a few weeks. This is what our schedule will look like:

3 nights in Brussels (sat sun mon)
1 night in cologne (tues)
2 nights in bamberg (wed and thur)
Then three nights in Munich

While in Brussels, we will be making the requisite drive(s) to visit Drie Fonteinen, Cantillon, and probably a couple (few?) other lambic brewers. We'd also like to visit a traditional farmhouse ale brewery (like Fantome, for example). I figure these plans won't fill-up the time of our entire stay, however.

Cologne is completely un-planned right now.

In Bamburg, I want to visit Schlenkerla. Aside from that, Bamburg is completely un-planned right now.

Munich will be Oktoberfest, so that's planned.

I'm looking for suggestions on brewers to visit and places to eat at these locations, as well as any "can't miss" things to see/do. thanks, y'all.

Also, if you know anywhere that sells new human livers, let me know about that too, please.

[Tom D]

I have nothing to offer, but am looking forward to the responses as we'll be doing damn near the same trip next year!

[Bill H o o p e r]

Hi Brian,

Frankfurt is perhaps the worst city in Germany for beer. I wouldn't even bother. It is however, the world capital for Applewine (Ebbelwoi). Sachsenhausen is the applewine quarter of Frankfurt (though the bars mostly stock the bigger, more massed-produced Applewineries. If you really want a special visit, go visit Andreas Schneider:

http://www.obsthof-am-steinberg.de/index.html

This is easily Germanys finest Applewine and Cider producer, located just outside of Frankfurt.

If you aren't into Applewine, I suggest choosing another German city to visit (Köln, Düsseldorf, Würzburg, Leipzig, Munich of course). That, or just come on down to wine-country!

Have fun.

Cheers,
Bill

[Russell Faulkner]

I don't know much about beer but always enjoy a couple at Délirium Café after a meal at Aux Armes Aux Brussels (its just opposite).

[Rick Allen]

Brian,
I would seriously think about changing your trip to include two nights in Bamberg and two in Munich. There are at least seven breweries in Bamberg, as well as the Weyermann Malting facility. Most of the Munich breweries (Spaten, Lowenbrau, Hacker-Pschorr, Hofbrauhaus) make their beer in a single brewhouse. In Bamberg, our favorite brewery was Klosterbrau. When we were there they had a schwarzbier that changed the way I looked at the category, and their specialty is a dark amber beer called braunbier. It's about three blocks from Schlenkerla. There is another brewpub practically next door to Schlenkerla, Ambrausianum whose specialty is wheat beer (they also serve the Schlenkerla Rauch Marzen). Across downtown are Fassala (was not my favorite - too much DMS in the beer I had there) and Spezial, the other rauch beer producer in town. We couldn't get in to Spezial because of the crowds - there was literally no place to stand. There are a number of other breweries out of the downtown area, as well as an interesting cathedral (only pope buried north of the alps). We liked Munich, but we loved Bamberg.

[Brian G r a f s t r o m]

Hmmm ... interesting thoughts, guys. Thank you for your input. Our cursory investigation into Frankfurt turned-up the same info as has been shared here (i.e.: not worth the stop, if stopping for beer).

Bill,
I'd love to come to wine country, but my wife and I will be with our beer-loving (and wine-tolerating) friend, and we don't want to foist winery stops on him, especially since he's coming all the way from the States to join us on this trip. Ashely and I intend to make it to German wine country in the next couple years, though!

Rick,
Thanks for that detailed post! I will float the idea of two days in Bamberg to my travel companions and see what they think --- if it were totally up to me, I'd simply take your advice and do it! Even if we do only one day in Bamberg, your advice will be quite valuable to us and will help enrich our experience. Thank you.

[b hudak]

YOu won't be driving through the Adrennes? I would strongly suggest the Trappist tour we did if you were traveling in the Ardennes but unless you drive through that area I cannot help. It doesn't look like you are going that way, though.

[Brian G r a f s t r o m]

Never even heard of that area, Bob. My quick search shows it's near Luxembourg? In France?

Anyways, "No, we're not planning to go that direction." None of us are really into the trappist brews much, anyways, although I'm sure we'd have a good time doing it. still, not a bad idea, and it will be taken under consideration.

[Phillip F r a n k s]

I have to agree with spending AT LEAST one more day in Bamberg. The best beer city in Germany and some utterly fascinating sights. There is no way you could drink your way through Bamberg in one day and it's a fairly small town. Just my $.02

[Brian Curtis]

Last time (only time) I was in Bamberg we slept in the cemetery. That was quite a few years (decades) ago. I'm guessing you'll find better accommodations.

[Brian G r a f s t r o m]

Last time (only time) I was in Bamberg we slept in the cemetery. That was quite a few years (decades) ago. I'm guessing you'll find better accommodations.

LOL!! I sure hope so!

[Bill H o o p e r]

Düsseldorf IS however, one of Germany's beer Meccas and no Beer trip could be complete without a stop, IMO. The Altstadt is cool, the breweries all have massive pubs attached (a Westphalian take on Beer-Halls), and Altbier is delicious. Plus, it is very close to Köln (and a major rival as well as a completely different take on Ale.) If you go that direction, I could definitely give you some recs.

Cheers,
Bill

[Brian G r a f s t r o m]

Cool. Thanks, Bill. I'll discuss with my wife and friend and report back with our decision.

[Bob Hunnicutt]

Don't let anyone talk you out of three days in Munchen during Oktoberfest. It's worth it just for the people watching (assuming you love crowds).

[Brian G r a f s t r o m]

Oh, Oktoberfest for three days is definitely happening (hotel is booked, and all that). We went last year, too, so we know what we're getting into.

After discussing the matter, we've decided to eliminate Frankfurt and do two nights in Bamberg.

[Eric Adams]

Brain,

What dates are you going to be there and did you get into any tents last year? If so did you have tickets ahead of time? If you don't mind me piggybacking anyone have suggestions for Stuttgart? We will be there for Volksfest after our time in Munich.

[Brian G r a f s t r o m]

You can PM me re: exact dates, if you'd like, Eric.

It's not hard to get into tents --- you can always get into whichever one you want. The challenge is finding a table. We didn't reserve any tables (I don't know how that's done, but I do know it's possible), so sometimes we weren't able to secure a table. that said, after the first couple (few?) litres, you kinda stop caring about things like getting tables.

[b hudak]

Never even heard of that area, Bob. My quick search shows it's near Luxembourg? In France?

Anyways, "No, we're not planning to go that direction." None of us are really into the trappist brews much, anyways, although I'm sure we'd have a good time doing it. still, not a bad idea, and it will be taken under consideration.

Yep. It is where the Battle of the Bulge was fought. The Battle of the Bulge museum in Luxemborg is the best museum I have ever been to anywhere ever. It is absolutely fantastic, and is worth the trip all by itself. I don't think too many Americans make it that way, which is a shame.
It did not sound as if your driving plans were goign to take you near that area, but I figured I'd chime in just in case.

[Andrew Kotowski]

Was in Munich a couple of months back. Had a GREAT meal at Andechser am Dom. Not high end dining - but great quality food with a nice outdoor patio. Pic of an appetizer tray is below.

Beerwise, I stumbled my way through the entirety of the English Gardens, but enjoyed a side trip to Augustiner Keller. Beer is great and they've got some giant barrels in the cellar with tables in them. Pretty cool.

[Eric Adams]

Brian, is it harder to get in the tents on the weekends and what time did you get there. My buddies are getting worried about not getting in : )

[Eric Adams]

We are going to be there 9/27-10/1 then we head off to Stuttgart for Volksfest.

[M.Kaplan]

Was in Munich a couple of months back. Had a GREAT meal at Andechser am Dom. Not high end dining - but great quality food with a nice outdoor patio. Pic of an appetizer tray is below.

Beerwise, I stumbled my way through the entirety of the English Gardens, but enjoyed a side trip to Augustiner Keller. Beer is great and they've got some giant barrels in the cellar with tables in them. Pretty cool.

Five years ago my wife and I ate dinner at Andechser am Dom and happened to meet Sepp Krätz and his wife, with whom we spent a fun and long evening eating and drinking. He invited us to come to his tent, the Hippodrome, for Oktoberfest. At the time, I had no idea who he or what the Hippodrome was. One of these years, I plan to take him up on his offer.

[Brian G r a f s t r o m]

Brian, is it harder to get in the tents on the weekends and what time did you get there. My buddies are getting worried about not getting in : )

We got there around 10 or 11am, iirc. It is *NOT* difficult to get into the tents --- trust me on this -- it is not more difficult on the weekends; in fact, is is *EASY* to get into the tents ... well, it's easy to the extent that walking is easy; towards the end of the day that can become somewhat difficult. There are *no lines* --- you just walk in. We never had to wait more than 15 seconds to get into a tent, and that was just because there were some people in front of us. Getting a table is the only logistical problem you and your friends should run into.

Advice:
1. Drink plenty of water and eat lots of food (I failed to do this last year, and learned my lesson the hard way)
2. If you stand on a table with the intention of downing a litre, you better be sure you're going to succeed
3. If you have to catch a train or bus, figure out when/where *before* you start drinking
4. buy lederhosen, and wear them
5. have a great time!

[Eric Ifune]

At Oktoberfest, if you have a group, you can reserve a table for the day. Great to be able to put your stuff down while you wander the fairgrounds; and you can always get a place for a beer. Each tent has a different vib. If you go on the rides, do them early in the day. They get sorta "soiled" as the day goes on. Get a grilled mackeral with your brezle. They're better than they look.
Touch to get a table seat weekend afternoons. If you don't have a reserved table, go early in the day and stake out a place.
Outside Munich, go the the Kloster Andechs. Nice bier garten and the best Dunkel to my taste.

[Brian G r a f s t r o m]

Thanks again for all your suggestions/help, folks!

I think our days in Cologne and Munich are sufficiently scheduled. Rick's post re: Bamberg was especially helpful, but I'd be interested in fielding any additional eating or sight-seeing suggestions for Bamberg.

Belgium breweries are also figured-out, but we don't yet know where we'll be eating, so would be thankful for any suggestions on that front (doesn't have to be fancy --- basically, looking to eat mussels and pommes frites with awesome beer during our stay there).

[Rick Allen]

Brian,
Definitely go to the cathedral. It houses the tombs of Holy Roman Emperor Henry II and Pope Clement II (the only pope buried north of the Alps). Lots of great statuary, including works by Tilman Riemenschneider (considered a Franconian woodworking icon) and Veit Stoss. The surrounding buildings are interesting, as is the adjacent rose garden. I'm not sure if the hike to the abbey is worth it, although the interior is interesting (every known herb painted on the walls, and several mummified remains from the 10th century). It was under reconstruction when we were there.

Remember, there are a dozen (I think) breweries to visit. I found the Weyermann malting facility to be interesting, especially their 4bbl experimental brew system. We tried a Rye Helles when we were there. When we were there (July) they had a big open air market in the middle of town - I'm a sucker for these things. We found just walking around town interesting. The city wasn't bombed in WWII, so their a lot of really old buildings/neighborhoods around.

We ate at the Wilde Rose Gasthaus and the Ambrausium. Both were good, inexpensive, but nothing special. I thought the Ambrausium was a little better.

[Brian G r a f s t r o m]

Cool. Thanks, Rick. I appreciate the food suggestions -- we really aren't looking for anything fancy, so I'm sure your tip will suit us quite nicely. Will def. go to the Cathedral --- and probably also the rose garden if it's nice outside. As much as I'd *like* to simply drink beer all day long, I don't think that's really the best thing to do --- more prudent to start around 2 or 3 pm.

This trip really is going to be a bucket list sort of trip for me --- knocking off my personal top 2 places in the world I want to go strictly for the purpose of sampling the local brews (Beersel and Bamberg) ... EXCITED doesn't even begin to describe how out of my skin I am in anticipation of this whole thing.

[Brett Johnson]

Brian,

Sounds like a killer trip! Wish I could remember the breweries I visited in Belgium when I was living in Europe years ago, but I'm sure you'll find your way around without any issues.

I also recommend going back to Munich around March for the Starkebier Festival; similar to Oktoberfest, but it's primarily a local's celebration (pre-Lent) and bests Oktoberfest IMO. No lines, easy to get table, and as you know, the Bavarians know how to have a good time while celebrating with a specially brewed beer.

Although several beer halls will be celebrating, Paulaner's Nockherberg hall is where you want to go.

Cheers,
Brett

[Brian G r a f s t r o m]

Cool. Good to know, Brett. Thanks, brother!

[Ken Schramm]

In Bamberg I would highly recommend Mahr's Brewery and the Franconian Brewing museum. Mahr's beers are spectacular, it is well worth the time, and if the Bock is available it is a singular experience. The Museum is seasonal, and you may want to do some research on whether it is open this time of year, but it is worth the effort, as well. Bamberg is beer heaven, and it was spared destruction in WWII, so it is one gorgeous town, as well. I would spend a week there if I could, and break my back bringing back beer.

[Brian G r a f s t r o m]

Thanks, Ken! We are ferrying our vehicle over, so we will have plenty of cargo space to bring beer back!

[Ken Schramm]

We stayed at Fässla. It was clean and comfortable, centrally located, not too expensive, and has good beer and decent food, but not the finest in town. There are some good restaurants on the far side of the main plaza.

[Ken Schramm]

Come on Brian, spill the details. Some of us have to live vicariously these days.

[Andrew Kotowski]

No joke! Sober up enough to post some pics

[Brian G r a f s t r o m]

it's coming, it's coming ... writing these reports takes an amount of time and energy that I simply haven't had since returning. Hopefully this weekend.