Ristorante La libera - 1 pm (11/6/2012)
The center of Alba is old and charming. As we had such a great time at Vietti and we got lost for a few minutes, we got to the restaurant a bit late but we were warmly received. It is a small cozy modern restaurant with very serious kitchen. I had the Carne cruda battuta al coltello then the Taglierini with white truffle. The owner came and shaved a whole slightly larger than a quail egg size truffle for me. The pasta was perfectly ardente and the egg noodle with butter and a copious amount of truffle was just heavily. If you are in Alba, I highly recommend the restaurant.
2006 Franz Hirtzberger Riesling Smaragd Singerriedel- Austria, Niederösterreich, Wachau(11/6/2012)
A big scale wine, peach, apricot, mineral, saline, clove and ends with pineapple note. Unctuous, chewy a hint of sweetness coming from very ripe fruits informed by Kelly, bright acidity and extreme mineral expression. It reminds me a bit of Zind Humbrecht but more precise, acidic and dry. Impressive wine. (94 pts.)
Kevin, if you make it to Gattinara and to Antoniolo (a great visit), ask them to send you to the trattoria they love. When I was there with Steve Goldun and Bob Semon, our group of 8 went through 5 pounds of porcini harvested that morning by the wife of the couple who own the restaurant. Her husband sent porcini out of the kitchen in 5 different preparations - the most amazing of which was simply thinly sliced porcini with shaved parmesan and lemon and olive oil. Amazing. The best meal I had over there - and I did hit a great truffle season.
Kevin, if you make it to Gattinara and to Antoniolo (a great visit), ask them to send you to the trattoria they love. When I was there with Steve Goldun and Bob Semon, our group of 8 went through 5 pounds of porcini harvested that morning by the wife of the couple who own the restaurant. Her husband sent porcini out of the kitchen in 5 different preparations - the most amazing of which was simply thinly sliced porcini with shaved parmesan and lemon and olive oil. Amazing. The best meal I had over there - and I did hit a great truffle season.
Visit to Rinaldi 3:00 PM (11/6/2012)
After a great lunch, we made up to the cantina G. Rinaldi. G. Rinaldi was not interested in visitors so he handed us to his wife. Marta whom we set up the appointment with was very busy so her mom gave us a tour. This is a small family operation and Marta was busy pumping the wines. We tasted through the 11 line up and they were very good. Then there was a double magnum of the 08 Barolo Brunate le Coste opened the day before. We also tasted the 09 Brunate which was still need time and almost undrinkable and the San Lorenzo which was ready to go. Both exceptional wines.
2008 Giuseppe Rinaldi Barolo Brunate Le Coste- Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo(11/6/2012)
Clearly the biggest Barolo of the 08 tasted. Big scale, nothing shy about this wine. Black fruits, licorices, blackberries, jammy, clove and sweet spices. Excellent concentration, round mouthfeel and great balance. Impressive wine with long life ahead. (96 pts.)
La Ciau del Tornavento – 8 PM (11/6/2012)
We drove to Treiso to dine at La Ciau del Tornavento. My last trip to Alba was a GJE tasting held at Tenuta Carretta now six years ago. I had a memorable truffle dinner with Francois back then and I mixed up the name and thought the restaurant was belvedere. Upon entering, the space looked very familiar and it immediately brought my fond “truffle” memory. A good friend and fellow GJE member Roberto S imports a lot of marquee French wines to Italy and he supplies DRCs, Rayas and Chaves to them. He told us to check out the cellar and possibly locate some mature wines. Unfortunately the wine list was priced like a star Michelin restaurant in France. However we were able to find a good deal, the 05 Rayas.
This is the only meal where the dishes has a bit more international feel, not that it shies away much from the classic Piedmont cuisine. If you are looking for a fancy and imaginative meal in Alba, this is the place to be. We were the first table to arrive and the chef, Maurilio Garola came out to greet us, btw he greeted and consulted everyone, and enquired what are we in the mood for and we enquired about the 80 euro tasting menu. He told us that it was a six courses of small plates. Kelly then responded “surprise us”. In addition, I really wanted to eat again one of the top dishes of my life, “Uovo in cocotte servito nel suo scrigno con Tartufo” truffle, egg and cream in a box so we added as an additional course. As expected the dishes were solid, one or two courses that were more modern but overall it was very classic. Contrast to what the Chef said, the dishes had pretty significant portions and after a several big meals, we felt full by the third course. Kelly especially hit the wall and reached the food coma. He had to stop at the great ravioli course and didn’t look too good. I suggested a shot of grappa and that seemed to do the trick and we got our good ole Kelly back except he still couldn’t eat a bite more. Our restaurant experiences have been extremely positive and in this case, they charged less for Kelly dinner and waived the truffle surcharge. What a surprise and a great gesture. This was an excellent meal once again. A couple points regarding the restaurant;
Uovo in cocotte servito nel suo scrigno con Tartufo
The chef will always carry around a big bag full of truffles to show to the diners.
Great cheese cart with a lot of stinky and creamy cheeses.
2012 Truffle report – As Bill Klapp kindly mentioned the 12 wasn’t a good truffle season, btw a great Porcini season due to little rain (our truffle box wasn’t as fragrant as the one that I had before). Also according to the chef, the lunar is late which means the best truffles will show a bit late as well. The chef also mentioned that he loves the quality of truffle in January these days “global warming” and the price is substantially cheaper as the demand goes down drastically.
P.S. I recalled getting introduced to Giorgio Rivetti last time and our first visit is at La Spinetta.
NV Ruinart Champagne Brut Rosé- France, Champagne(11/6/2012)
Bright jammy strawberry and raspberry fruit, mineral and citric. Not very fine mousse but good overall palate with bright acidity and mineral expression. Tasty. (91 pts.)
2005 Château Rayas Châteauneuf-du-Pape Reserve- France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape(11/6/2012)
Wow, surprisingly completely open for business. Although the fruit is quite primary there are already complex tertiary notes. The explosive nose of cherry liquor, cranberry, raspberry, meat, blood, smoke, clove and very strong note of garrigue. Unctuous yet silky palate and although ripe, perfectly balanced and seamless. The wine has incredible length. A classic Rayas that reminds me the 95. A great treat and privilege to experience and I am not even a true CDP guy. (97 pts.)
Visit to La Spinetta - 10 AM (11/7/2012)
We checked out from the hotel and headed to our first visit at La Spinetta. The young lady who was schedule to host us want there and luckily we were greeted by Mr. Stephano Mazzzetta who is in charge of the facility that we were visiting. Although he spoke little English, I was able to get most of what he was explaining and he understood a lot of what I was asking. Kelly is an expert of Spinetta and recognizing that Stephano opened almost entire line-up with the portfolio, the table wine that he makes which is none commercial as only a few hundred bottles were made and offer a blind tasting of the 00 Barolo Campe which was apparently returned from the Japanese importer due to a minor damage in the capsule. I was surprised to know that the perfect appearance is a must for the Japanese market, I thought may be China but Japan! Based on Stephano’s explanation and the wines, La Spinetta’s style has changed where significantly less new oak is used and less concentrated. The 09 barbarescos showed mouth puckering tannins and I was expecting 15 years to shed the tannins. However Kelly explained that the tannins are often coming from the wood and barbarescos in general tend to get soften relatively quick and these will be drinkable in five years and Stephano agreed.
I wasn’t too familiar with La Spinetta other than a few big Barberas and Barbarescos that I had awhile back, I was impressed with the whole line up and with extremely friendly and informative Stephano, this was another great visit.
Apparently La Spinetta was a major Muscato d’Asti producer. Since it was a very successful operation, they were able to acquire a number of top red vineyards.
P.S. Stephano showed the wine that he made that is not commercially available called “Desmentia” that was quite impressive. 70% nebbiolo and 30% barbera. Subtle and very mineral driven nose, red fruits, sap, pinot like purity and brightness and lead pencil. Delicate palate not unlike a softer Barolo and also noticeable but not obtrusive tannins. Very good wine. 92 pts.
2008 La Spinetta (Rivetti) Langhe Chardonnay Lidia- Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Langhe DOC(11/7/2012)
Round, yellow fruit, mineral, lemon curd and a hint of toasted oak. Medium acidity and nice minerality. Warm and round despite minerality. Reminds me a middle of the road domestic Chardonnay. (90 pts.)
2009 La Spinetta (Rivetti) Langhe Chardonnay Lidia- Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Langhe DOC(11/7/2012)
Much preferred this to the 08 as it is more linear, precise and pure. Stephano explained because it is younger. Perhaps better to consume young. Delicate nose of pear, white fruits, flower and limestone. Delicate but precise palate with bright acidity. (92 pts.)
2009 La Spinetta (Rivetti) Barbera d’Asti Cà di Pian- Italy, Piedmont, Asti, Barbera d’Asti(11/7/2012)
A compilation of 23 different vineyards, the first red of the house made going back to the 85 vintage. One year in used barrique. Black fruits, blackberries, cassis, earth, graphite and spicy spices. Overall cool impression, medium concentration, ripe fruits and a little bitter finish. (89 pts.)
2009 La Spinetta (Rivetti) Barbera d’Alba Gallina- Italy, Piedmont, Alba, Barbera d’Alba(11/7/2012)
50 year old vines from more sandy soil, One year in barrique, 50% new and 50% used once. Blueberries, blue fruits, flower, a hint of oak and graphite. Round, full and mineral palate with noticeable tannins. A big scale ripe Barbera. (92 pts.)
2009 La Spinetta (Rivetti) Barbera d’Asti Superiore (Bionzo)- Italy, Piedmont, Asti, Barbera d’Asti Superiore(11/7/2012)
80 year old vine, One year in barrique, 50% new and 50% used once. The first vintage was 1998. Seems cooler expression than Gallina, cassis, lavender, lead pencil and seasalt. Excellent concentration, silky palate and noticeable tannins (92 pts.)
2008 La Spinetta (Rivetti) Barbera d’Asti Superiore (Bionzo)- Italy, Piedmont, Asti, Barbera d’Asti Superiore(11/7/2012)
80 year old vine, One year in barrique, 50% new and 50% used once. The first vintage was 1998. Perhaps one year softened the wine significantly and definitely prefer this to the 09. Softer and warmer nose, blackberries, floral, clove, mineral, lead pencil and earth. Round palate with generous sweet fruits. (93 pts.)
2008 La Spinetta (Rivetti) Barbaresco Vigneto Bordini- Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco(11/7/2012)
20 months in barrique, 30% new. Red and blue fruits, menthol, mint and lead pencil. Good concentration but ends with mouth puckering tannins. Need minimum five years. (92 pts.)
2009 La Spinetta (Rivetti) Barbaresco Vürsù Vigneto Gallina- Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco(11/7/2012)
40 year old vines in Neive, planted at 650 feet, most sandy soil amongst their barbarescos. 20 months in barrique, 30% new. Strawberry, raspberry jam, anise, licorice and sap. Round mouthfeel, silky and noticeable structure. Rounder but simpler fruit expression than Starderi. (93 pts.)
2009 La Spinetta (Rivetti) Barbaresco Vürsù Vigneto Starderi- Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco(11/7/2012)
40 year old vines in Neive, planted at 650 feet. 20 months in barrique, 30% new. Clearly more stuffs than the Gallina. Red fruits, spicy, lead pencils, menthol and stem. Bigger than Gallina, Bright acidity and mouth puckering tannins. (94 pts.)
2009 La Spinetta (Rivetti) Barbaresco Vürsù Vigneto Valeirano- Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco(11/7/2012)
40 year old vines in Treiso, planted at 1200 feet. 20 months in barrique, 30% new. Most limestone soil of their Barbarescos. More delicate, a hint of pinot, red fruits, raspberry and blackberry, truffle, mineral and earth. Precise and cooler palate, mineral and noticeable tannins. (95 pts.)
2008 La Spinetta (Rivetti) Barolo Vürsù Vigneto Campè- Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo(11/7/2012)
50 year old vines from Garretti vineyard. 24 months in barrique, 50% new. I noticed only one CT note with 99 pts rating. I am not that high but this is an excellent Barolo. Expensive chinese tea, raspberry, tar, anise and smoke. Sweet and round palate, excellent concentration and noticeable tannins. Need ten years but it will be a lovely classic Barolo. (95 pts.)
2008 La Spinetta (Rivetti) Barolo Vigneto Garretti- Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo(11/7/2012)
22 months in barrique, 25% new. Not as detailed as the 08 Campe, lower tone, red and black fruits, cherry, anise, caramel and spicy spice. Mouth puckering tannins. (92 pts.)
2000 La Spinetta (Rivetti) Barolo Riserva Vürsù Vigneto Campè- Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo(11/7/2012)
Apparently returned from the Japanese importer due to a minor damage in the capsule. Explosive nose displaying truffle, anise, rose, tar, caramel, chestnut puree and dry orange peel. Round sweet fruit, silky but still noticeable tannins. This is a beautiful fully matured Barolo that is drinking beautifully with hedonistic and complex nose. (96 pts.)
Bill K’s house visit
I emailed Bill K. as I wanted a chance to finally meet him. Bill was unfortunately under the weather so he invited us to meet him at his house, more like a small piece of heaven on earth. His house is situated at one of the top plateaus in Neive, breathtaking/spectacular 270 degree view of Alps as well as the top barbaresco vineyards. I was speechless for awhile. We toward his lovely house then he kindly offered the 96 Falletto red label that he decanted a couple hours back. While having the wine, he told us how he was able to purchase the house reminding us being lucky if often better than being good.
1996 Bruno Giacosa Barolo Riserva Falletto di Serralunga d’Alba- Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo(11/7/2012)
Extremely youthful and extremely tight, a lot of rose, tar, balsamico and mineral. Unyielding but polished palate, linear and precise. The nose opened up more with air showing a bit more fruit but this wine needs time or minimum eight hours of decanting. Current drinking pleasure in the low-mid 90s but 97+ future ahead. (97 pts.)
Ken is correct, although 1996 was the first year that the Le Rocche subplot produced all of the Falletto juice, so for all intents and purposes, the name notwithstanding, the wine in question is the first bottling of Le Rocche di Falletto Riserva…
Visit to Bruno Giacosa - 3:30 PM (11/7/2012)
It appears as most Restaurants close on Tuesday and Wednesday so our lunch option was very limited. Bill kindly recommended a couple options but both were closed for lunch. So we walked into La Contea in Neive thinking it is a casual place but we were surprised to get white glove service. We sat outside and I ordered a stewed veal tail in Barolo sauce which was exceptional.
We proceed to Bruno Giacosa where we were warmly received by a young oenologist Francesco Versio. He is a passionate wine maker also a very good taster. We tasted the current release of the Barbera and Nebiollo which were good. We also toured the facility and the cellar. It was interesting to note that both G. Conterno and B. Giacosa have immaculate cellar.
2007 Bruno Giacosa Barbaresco Riserva Asili- Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco(11/7/2012)
24 months in neutral oak. Extremely ripe, licorice, dry cherry, strawberry jam, cedar and sweet spices. Excellent concentration, bright acidity and noticeable tannins. The wine gives the impression of a bottle of the 03 Barolo. A bit too ripe and very little definition. I discussed the wine with Kelly and his rating is a bit lower than mine. My rating may be a bit too generous. (93 pts.)
2007 Bruno Giacosa Barolo Falletto di Serralunga d’Alba- Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo(11/7/2012)
30 months in neutral oak. Ripe but cool fruit expression, raspberry, raisin, balsamico, earthkirschwasser, cedar, flower and tobacco. Full body wine, round mouthfeel, mineral and chewy tannins. Very impressive wine with a great potential. (96 pts.)
2007 Bruno Giacosa Barolo Riserva Le Rocche del Falletto di Serralunga d’Alba- Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo(11/7/2012)
36 months in neutral oak. The first thing came to my mind is the 05 frederic mugnier Musigny. Perfectly seamless, explosively perfumed and incredibly fresh. This is a very special wine that brings a great deal of emotion. (98 pts.)
1999 Bruno Giacosa Barolo Falletto di Serralunga d’Alba- Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo(11/7/2012)
Brought by a couple from Greenwich, ripe, exotic, spicy, caramel and lead pencil. Warm and round mouthfeel, drinking nicely. (93 pts.)
Although our schedule was short and tight, we were fortunate to visit seven wineries and ate like kings. I must express my since gratitude to Kelly and Moritz as they arranged the visits. It was an wonderful and memorable trip thus far. Now time to head down to Milan for a GJE dinner.
This is one of those threads which I want to go back and re-read, it’s so full of fun stuff. Thanks for posting and have a great time at the GJE dinner.