It is the tenth time that I organize the annual dinner which is called “Bipin’s friends’ dinner”. A friendly relation exists between Bipin and me and I love to organize a dinner with winemakers who have become friends. Every one of us brings wine, and Bipin invites us.
All the bottles are ready to be opened when I arrive at 4 pm in restaurant Laurent. Many bottles of producers have been recorked and are easy to open. What is strange is that the cork of the Yquem 1949, recorked in 1998 turns inside the bottle, and slips when I turn the corkscrew. I lift the cork and at one moment the cork breaks. The rest could have fallen inside but happily I can get it out. It is as if Yquem has used an old cork for their operation.
The smells of all the wines are great. I was afraid of the color of the Romanée 66 and I had called Louis-Michel Liger-Belair for that. I was afraid for nothing as the smell of the wine is marvelously romantic. In such events, I like to bring unexpected wines, and this time, it is a Beaujolais Tête 1923, Tête being the name of the domaine. I am happy because the smell of the wine could be the one of a solid Burgundy. My “official” input is a Guiraud 1904 whose level is in the neck despite an original cork, very contracted at the top, but perfect at the bottom.
I wait for my friends, and Philippe Bourguignon, head of the restaurant, has his dinner in the bar. He proposes me to drink a glass of Champagne Dom Pérignon 1976 which was opened yesterday for an event centered on champagne, brought by Richard Geoffroy who will come also tonight. The bubble is scarce and the heavy taste of a great wine is very pleasant. But after a while, the champagne looks a little tired.
I will name the participants, following the table clockwise : Bipin Desai, Eric Rousseau (domaine Armand Rousseau), Richard Geoffroy (Dom Pérignon), Louis-Michel Liger-Belair (domaine Liger-Belair), John Kapon (Acker-Merrall & Condit), Jean-Luc Pépin (domaine Comte de Voguë), François Audouze, Sylvain Pitiot (Clos de Tart), Didier Depond (champagnes Salon - Delamotte), Bernard Hervet (maison Faiveley), Jean Berchon (Moët & Chandon).
The aperitif is taken with Champagne Moët & Chandon Grand Vintage Collection magnum 1959. The smell is very intense and deep. In mouth, the wine is powerful, but there is a bitterness which diminishes the pleasure. It is a nice champagne but not perfect. And age is not responsible for that.
The menu prepared by Alain Pégouret is : Terrine de foie gras de canard au naturel / Consommé de volaille / Tartare de Saint Jacques au citron vert / Fregola Sarda à la truffe noire / Pièce de bœuf rôtie, servie en aiguillettes, pommes soufflées « Laurent » , jus aux herbes / Joues de veau fondantes, moelle, risotto à la truffe blanche d’Alba / Caille rôtie façon « bécassine » / Saint Nectaire fermier / Tarte fine à la mangue.
I always say that to begin with a Sauternes is a nonsense, but Bipin had wished to have the Château d’Yquem 1949 with foie gras in terrine. As Bipin is the inviting power, I have accepted. As expected, the sauternes lets the foie gras appear even fatter. But we will concentrate on the Yquem. This wine of a wonderful golden color is “the” absolute perfection of Sauternes. It has no age, having reached a complete felicity. It is rich, full of joy, like a miracle. This wine is the gift of Pierre Lurton who could not come. This is extremely generous. Bipin calls Pierre on his mobile phone to thank him, and he has certainly heard our applauses.
When a Sauternes begins, the best to clear the mouth is to have a chicken soup and champagne. This is what we do, which is highly efficient. And the champagne of this construction is not a small one, it is Champagne Salon 1961. This champagne is exactly the type of champagne that I adore. Like the Yquem, it has reached a state of perfection which excludes any age. The soup shortens a little the champagne but I like it this way as the skeleton of the wine appears even greater. For me this wine is like Chinese calligraphy, made of pure elegance.
The Musigny Blanc Domaine Comte de Voguë 1990 is a very great white wine. John Kapon says that in Burgundy, the two wines which have such an impressive fatness are the Montrachet du Domaine de la Romanée Conti and this wine. This wine has an impressive presence. It is fat but also very fruity, with ever changing aspects. It is long with a pronounced final. I love it with the sweet raw scallops.
The two wines which are served now are very different. The Musigny Vieilles Vignes Domaine Comte de Voguë 1989 is incredibly young, even too young despite its 21 years. It is rich, fruity, and highly promising. Probably ten years will help it to become a giant. The La Romanée Liger Belair 1966 is completely romantic, I feel the roses, ash, salt, and all the aspects of this very elegant wine are full of charm. It is very feminine, and with Eric Rousseau, we see that this wine is a little older than it should be. But even so, this wine is a pure dream.
Now we have two 1976. The Clos de Tart 1976 is very solid, fruity, with alcohol noticeable. It is full of balance. The Chambertin Armand Rousseau 1976 is less balanced, very Burgundy like, changing, playing with charm. We wonder which wine we would prefer and there is no answer as the two wines are charming and with a nice maturity.
The Clos de Vougeot Faiveley 1934 is very amazing because it has the youth of a wine after 1980. The fruit is amazing, very gourmand. It is a star, very seductive, generous. A good example of a great terroir. Served with this wine my Beaujolais Tête 1923 has a nice smell of Burgundy and has a body that many Burgundies of this age would like to have. Of course it is not very complex, but it plays gently its role. The wine is not oxidized as Bipin suggested.
I have wished that the Champagne Dom Pérignon Rosé Œnothèque 1966 appears now with birds, and it works wonderfully. I am not a big fan of champagne rosé, but this one is absolutely splendid. The color is marvelous, of peach, going from pink to yellow. The smell is nice and the taste is great, charming, romantic but also strong. It has an immense presence. It evokes yellow fruits. The champagne dominates completely the combination with the birds.
It is Sylvain Pitiot’s birthday today. Sylvain wanted to offer a wine of 1950 and I have helped him to bring this Château Haut-Brion 1950. The nose of truffle is very deep. The taste is also very deep, with a strong truffle. It is a nice mature Haut-Brion from a year that I adore. It is nicely balanced with a long finish.
The mango tart is served to Sylvain with a lit candle and we applaud him. The Château Guiraud 1904 has a magnificent color of pure gold. The nose is subtle and the wine has no sign of age. I love wines which have their original cork as I find them more authentic. This one is purely great. It has not the power of Yquem 1949, but it is a glorious sauternes with no default. I like such sauternes.
As winemakers have brought their own wines we do not vote. But I have made my personal ranking, which is very difficult as so many wines were perfect. Here is my vote :
1 - Château d’Yquem 1949,
2 - La Romanée Liger Belair 1966,
3 - Champagne Salon 1961,
4 - Champagne Dom Pérignon Rosé Œnothèque 1966,
5 - Clos de Vougeot Faiveley 1934,
6 - Musigny Blanc Domaine Comte de Voguë 1990.
The atmosphere of this dinner was pure friendship. We smiled a lot, in a very relaxed atmosphere. Every one of us had the impression to have lived a great moment.
The cook has been remarkable and perfect for the wines. I feel this dinner as a great honor to be able to meet such prestigious persons in such a wonderful way.
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