Joined: Tue Feb 10, 2009 6:16 pm Posts: 5860 Location: Santa Monica, Rio de Janeiro
_________________ É prohibido prohibir!
“Understand, when you eat meat, that something did die. You have an obligation to value it - not just the sirloin but also all those wonderful tough little bits.” Tony Bourdain
hit me via PM where you are staying and for how long and I'll give you few ideas
_________________ “I don’t care if people hate my guts; I assume most of them do. The important question is whether they are in a position to do anything about it.” - W.S. Burroughs
Joined: Wed Jan 28, 2009 3:38 am Posts: 426 Location: Ohio
Love it. Love it. Love it. You'll love it too.
We stayed at Hotel Fron and we liked it. But there are plenty of other very nice hotels there too. For fine dining, I highly recommend Laekjarbrekka. Vid Tjornina is very good too. And for the best lamb hotdogs anywhere, you must try Baejarins Bestu which is a little stand near the harbor. Taxis are relatively cheap and the public buses are very efficient. Check out the tourism centers for a Reykjavik Welcome Card to use for public transit, museums, etc. And don't forget your bathing suit for the wonderful public thermal pools and spas all over town. And, of course, there's the Blue Lagoon and the short excursions to Gullfoss, Geysir, and Thingvellir. Let me know if you need any more rec's. You're going to have a blast.
Joined: Fri Jun 05, 2009 9:51 am Posts: 324 Location: Westchester, NY
Great place. Love the fish at the restaurants. Blue Lagoon is a must. I also rented a care and drove around the south west of the island. Stopped at geysers and waterfalls.
Driving this time of year in Iceland can be an adventure, lots of ice on the roads. We've been 4 times and have quite enjoyed our stays. The landscape is something that pictures just do not prepare you for.
The best part is if you have time to get away from the Reykjavik area. We spent some time in Myvatn, Akureyri and Husavik. Myvatn Nature Baths are way better than the Blue Lagoon, if for no other reason than fewer people and it's open after dark http://www.jardbodin.is/english/
If dining in Reykjavik find Prir Frakkar. It's away from the main area, but the food is almost worth the flight and it is distinctly not a tourist trap.
Also, try the crazy stuff they eat, puffin, hakarl and others, you may not like them all, but it's good fun. (You might even try the whale, as sushi it is delicious)
As for wine, well there aren't many choices, and they all are pricey, beer would be my recommendation.
The hotel we enjoyed best was Hotel Borg but they've all been nice and very accommodating.
Joined: Tue Jan 27, 2009 11:19 pm Posts: 835 Location: People's Republic of Massachusetts
Was there in the early 90's on a two week Navy reserve active duty at the NATO base in Keflavik. Landscape is very lunar-like, but pretty in a stark strange way. Saw Gullfoss and Thingvellir and Stroker geyser. Good fish and lamb in the restaurants (they have seagull and puffin also ). I guess there is great salmon fishing if you have the time. Saw a bit of the "northern lights". Was there in October and it was more night than day. Also went spelunking, that was a trip! Iceland would be cool for a geologist. Oh and the water in the hotels smells like sulpher.
_________________ I shall be telling this with a sigh Somewhere ages and ages hence: Two roads diverged in a wood, and I— I took the one less traveled by, And that has made all the difference.
I was in Iceland for about a month last summer, so obviously conditions will be quite different for you than they were for me. Darryl offered up some very good advice: get out of Reykjavik if you can. Nothing against the city, but to experience Iceland you have to get into the countryside. With luck, you'll be able to catch the northern lights. Make sure you rent a 4x4 vehicle as some roads will be impassable without one.
Joined: Sun Feb 08, 2009 6:50 pm Posts: 340 Location: North Shore Mass.
Melissa - I was there in October for business, so only had a day of sightseeing. The Golden Circle tour was fantastic - we got a driver/tour guide and it takes the better part fo a day from Reykjavik. The food was much better than I anticipated, both the seafood and the Icelandic lamb is very good. If you want any details, shoot me a PM.
Thanks for all the tips. We are booking a golden circle tour, but not getting a car of our own.
As ridiculous as it sounds, one of the biggest struggles I have with travel is packing the right footwear. We try to travel light, and shoes take up a lot of luggage space. With that in mind, if anyone can answer these questions, I'd really appreciate the guidance...
1. Is Reykjavik similar to a European city with regard to how people dress for dinner? I'd never walk into a restaurant in Paris or Amsterdam in clunky all-weather mocs, but they're not at all out of place here in the Pacific Northwest.
2. If you were there in the winter months, did you find snow boots necessary? Did you walk across a lot of uneven terrain on the golden circle tour, or mostly stick to looking out a car window or walking on paved roads? My best urban walking shoes (I've walked twelve hours in these w/o the slightest ache) are Dansko clogs, which are positively deadly on uneven terrain.
So... yeah. If you were visiting Iceland in March and you only had room for the shoes on your feet and one extra pair in your suitcase, what would you pack?
Joined: Fri Jun 05, 2009 9:51 am Posts: 324 Location: Westchester, NY
M. M c C a l l wrote:
Thanks for all the tips. We are booking a golden circle tour, but not getting a car of our own.
As ridiculous as it sounds, one of the biggest struggles I have with travel is packing the right footwear. We try to travel light, and shoes take up a lot of luggage space. With that in mind, if anyone can answer these questions, I'd really appreciate the guidance...
1. Is Reykjavik similar to a European city with regard to how people dress for dinner? I'd never walk into a restaurant in Paris or Amsterdam in clunky all-weather mocs, but they're not at all out of place here in the Pacific Northwest.
2. If you were there in the winter months, did you find snow boots necessary? Did you walk across a lot of uneven terrain on the golden circle tour, or mostly stick to looking out a car window or walking on paved roads? My best urban walking shoes (I've walked twelve hours in these w/o the slightest ache) are Dansko clogs, which are positively deadly on uneven terrain.
So... yeah. If you were visiting Iceland in March and you only had room for the shoes on your feet and one extra pair in your suitcase, what would you pack?
I wore what I have been for over 12 years. When it snows, my hiking boots are close by! What I do remember when going outside the city is that there are no ropes or chains forbidding you from walking into unchartered territory. Thus your clogs are not the best to bring. Leave them home. I was in Iceland, the last week of March and there was alot of snow on the ground.
Casual is the way to go. I don't think we took anything dressier than jeans and hiking type shoes. You'll likely be walking in snow or some remnants thereof quite a bit, so be prepared.
Mike is right about no ropes or chains, you can venture about at your own risk. It's a beautiful thing.
Joined: Mon Feb 09, 2009 1:09 am Posts: 2542 Location: The Golden State
M. M c C a l l wrote:
Thanks Mike-- it sounds like boots are in order. In general, did you find the restaurants to be dressy, or pretty casual for dinner?
Melissa, most of the restaurants I'm most familiar with in Reykjavik (Lobster House, Perlan, Vox - Nordica Hotel and Seafood Cellar (I believe at the Holt Hotel) are sort of semi-casual. I'd feel comfortable in a jacket with no tie.
The better places in Reykjavik are not as dressy as NY, SF, London or Paris. The town still has a neat frontier, small town feel to it.
One of my all-time favorite vacations was to Iceland. But, I did go in the summer months.
Off the top of my head, I remember really enjoying:
Riding snowmobiles on the glaciers Horseback riding in the lava fields GULFOSS!!! The Blue Lagoon (although a bit touristy) & all the geo-thermal swimming pools Waterfall and Geyser trips 4x4'ing on the black beaches A couple of good museums Shopping for an Icelandic sweater Good (but expensive) food Some good clubs
FWIW, there is a tourist center at the bottom of the main street (forgot its name)...but they make it VERY easy to plan trips....
If you want specifics on anything listed, let me know and I'll dig out my journal.
Such a friendly, clean, safe, unique place - HAVE A BLAST!!!!
Joined: Sat Sep 05, 2009 7:40 pm Posts: 103 Location: Central Washington
Melissa,
The March 2010 issue of Food & Wine has an article on Iceland. I know, I know, it's not really much of a food/wine authority, but there might be some interesting info for you.
One of my all-time favorite vacations was to Iceland. But, I did go in the summer months.
Off the top of my head, I remember really enjoying:
Riding snowmobiles on the glaciers Horseback riding in the lava fields GULFOSS!!! The Blue Lagoon (although a bit touristy) & all the geo-thermal swimming pools Waterfall and Geyser trips 4x4'ing on the black beaches A couple of good museums Shopping for an Icelandic sweater Good (but expensive) food Some good clubs
FWIW, there is a tourist center at the bottom of the main street (forgot its name)...but they make it VERY easy to plan trips....
If you want specifics on anything listed, let me know and I'll dig out my journal.
Such a friendly, clean, safe, unique place - HAVE A BLAST!!!!
Thanks Kim-- if there were any specific restaurants or clubs you loved, I'd love the info. Did you visit the Phallological Museum by any chance? Gawd, what a concept.
We're back from Iceland, and we really enjoyed it. It's such a great deal right now that I've decided to return next week with my 12 year old daughter. We will have a bit more time than Steve and I had there-- six days instead of three. We already have a second Golden Circle tour booked (I loved the first one) so now I'd like to branch out and see a little more of the island. Has anyone toured the south shore or the Snaefellsness peninsula?
Darryl Priest wrote:
The best part is if you have time to get away from the Reykjavik area. We spent some time in Myvatn, Akureyri and Husavik. Myvatn Nature Baths are way better than the Blue Lagoon, if for no other reason than fewer people and it's open after dark http://www.jardbodin.is/english/
Is this a shuttle bus ride away from Reykjavik, or more of a day trip?
We're back from Iceland, and we really enjoyed it. It's such a great deal right now that I've decided to return next week with my 12 year old daughter. We will have a bit more time than Steve and I had there-- six days instead of three.
Melissa, good to hear that you enjoyed this trip. Can you go into more details about the cost of living in Iceland at the moment? How long would you go for a "comfortable" trip? (I don't like to be rushed).
If it's such a deal right now I might go soon :)
_________________ "You are so damn hard to impress." ~ Joe Hauck "I am free of prejudice. I hate everyone equally." ~ W.C. Fields (ITB: communication/marketing consultant)
Joined: Wed Jan 28, 2009 3:38 am Posts: 426 Location: Ohio
Our first trip was nearly three years ago back when it was rather pricey. But since their economy has collapsed, we're seriously considering going back for a week or so this August. That place is like a magic land not of this world.
Melissa, good to hear that you enjoyed this trip. Can you go into more details about the cost of living in Iceland at the moment? How long would you go for a "comfortable" trip? (I don't like to be rushed).
If it's such a deal right now I might go soon :)
You should indeed go soon, but depending on what their packages are like from continental Europe, I'd wait a month or two. More on that later.
It would be cheaper for you than it was for us assuming your money is in Euros, but the exchange rate is favorable to us both. For ease of keeping track of what we spent, we set the Icelandic Krona (ISK) to one penny in our minds. In reality, it's about ISK129 to the dollar right now, so a typical ISK200 cafe au lait is $1.50 in an upscale bakery along the main shopping street in Reykjavik.
Steve and I were not there long enough to really evaluate prices, but it was quite affordable compared to the horror stories I'd read on TripAdvisor from 2-3 years ago. The day of our Golden Circle tour, we were so exhausted that we ducked into a pricey steakhouse just because it was closest to our hotel. With Buenos Aires a major exception, we never go to steakhouses. The chef's four course menu (five if you include a really delicious amuse bouche) was ISK79,000, which (I'm guessing) is about €40. In the Krona's heyday, a single entree cost that much at a fairly ordinary restaurant.
Tours are a good deal now too, relatively speaking. Our small Golden Circle tour was about $60pp. We're not big "tour" people, but we didn't have enough time there for a DIY adventure. Steve found us a small operator so we didn't have to deal with a bus full of dozens of hapless tourists. We had nine other people in our van, and they were all good company. That's important on a nine hour tour. The guide was exceptionally pleasant and knowledgeable.
I could easily imagine spending two weeks in Iceland with a rental car, especially later in the spring when the days are longer. Another reason to go a little later in the year (which was not possible for me) is that a trip to Iceland is the perfect excuse to take side-trips to Greenland and the Faeroe Islands on Iceland's domestic carrier, Air Iceland. I tried every permutation imaginable to get myself to Greenland for a day, but the flights are so infrequent this time of year that you have to stay for several days.
We're back from Iceland, and we really enjoyed it. It's such a great deal right now that I've decided to return next week with my 12 year old daughter. We will have a bit more time than Steve and I had there-- six days instead of three. We already have a second Golden Circle tour booked (I loved the first one) so now I'd like to branch out and see a little more of the island. Has anyone toured the south shore or the Snaefellsness peninsula?
Darryl Priest wrote:
The best part is if you have time to get away from the Reykjavik area. We spent some time in Myvatn, Akureyri and Husavik. Myvatn Nature Baths are way better than the Blue Lagoon, if for no other reason than fewer people and it's open after dark http://www.jardbodin.is/english/
Is this a shuttle bus ride away from Reykjavik, or more of a day trip?
Honestly it's probably more of a 2 day trip, fly to Akureyri and drive or tour from there. We stayed 4 days, 3 nights in that general area between Akureyri, Myvatn and Husavik. Plus you can check out Krafla. We stayed right by the lake in Myvatn at http://www.tripadvisor.com/Hotel_Review ... yvatn.html This was also next to a farm which smoked trout. Having been there and seen the lack of trees, you may guess what the heat/smoke source is for smoking the trout? Despite the fuel choice it's very tasty.
Husavik has a good whaling museum and that other museum mentioned above ;)
Joined: Wed Feb 04, 2009 5:21 am Posts: 1111 Location: Oregon, USA
Darryl Priest wrote:
[Having been there and seen the lack of trees, you may guess what the heat/smoke source is for smoking the trout? Despite the fuel choice it's very tasty.
Mmmm... that ineffable je ne sais quois of the "special" smoked trout.
I realize they're stuck on a volcanic rock 2/3 of the way to the North Pole with limited options, but still, traditional Icelandic cuisine (putrefied shark, grilled lamb's face, and sour sheep testicles) is pretty much revolting.
_________________ One of the disadvantages of wine is that it makes a man mistake words for thoughts. Samuel Johnson
The chef's four course menu (five if you include a really delicious amuse bouche) was ISK79,000, which (I'm guessing) is about €40. In the Krona's heyday, a single entree cost that much at a fairly ordinary restaurant.
I hope you meant ISK7,900 or I'm not going there anytime soon :)
_________________ "You are so damn hard to impress." ~ Joe Hauck "I am free of prejudice. I hate everyone equally." ~ W.C. Fields (ITB: communication/marketing consultant)
The chef's four course menu (five if you include a really delicious amuse bouche) was ISK79,000, which (I'm guessing) is about €40. In the Krona's heyday, a single entree cost that much at a fairly ordinary restaurant.
I hope you meant ISK7,900 or I'm not going there anytime soon :)
In my head, it all makes sense. Getting it down on "paper" is harder.
What kind of travelogue is this??!! You're not going to tell us what two pairs of shoes you took??
Well, okay. I took brown leather Merrell jungle mocs for the golden circle, and black Dansko platform Mary Janes for the city. I will add stylin' flip flops for trip #2 since my daughter and I plan to spend lots of time in geothermal pools.
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