Search found 3128 matches

by William Kelley
July 24th, 2021, 4:30 am
Forum: Wine Talk
Topic: TN: Bernard Moreau Maltroie 2015
Replies: 3
Views: 103

Re: TN: Bernard Moreau Maltroie 2015

They really excelled in 2015. Think these will go a long time, I haven't really opened any of my bottles yet.
by William Kelley
July 23rd, 2021, 7:32 am
Forum: Wine Talk
Topic: Wine Critic Palate Guide
Replies: 53
Views: 3572

Re: Wine Critic Palate Guide

No one will say his notes aren't evocative. Von Winning, Riesling Grosses Gewachs Kieselberg, 2017 "This displays one of the most purely mineral noses I can recall from any Pfalz Riesling, specifically an evocation of quarry dust, wet stone, oil and sea breeze. In Chablis-like fashion, these a...
by William Kelley
July 22nd, 2021, 11:58 am
Forum: Wine Talk
Topic: TN: 2018 Domaine Bernard Moreau et Fils Chardonnay Bourgogne Blanc
Replies: 17
Views: 547

Re: TN: 2018 Domaine Bernard Moreau et Fils Chardonnay Bourgogne Blanc

I did just pick up a bottle of Remi’s 2017 Bourgogne Côte-d’Or Blanc, which I believe is 100% de-classified Meursault. No, the vines are in the commune of Meursault but appellation Bourgogne, not appellation Meursault, so they are not declassified. Oh :) thanks for the clarification, we do not dese...
by William Kelley
July 22nd, 2021, 11:44 am
Forum: Wine Talk
Topic: TN: 2018 Domaine Bernard Moreau et Fils Chardonnay Bourgogne Blanc
Replies: 17
Views: 547

Re: TN: 2018 Domaine Bernard Moreau et Fils Chardonnay Bourgogne Blanc

IlkkaL wrote: July 22nd, 2021, 11:00 am I did just pick up a bottle of Remi’s 2017 Bourgogne Côte-d’Or Blanc, which I believe is 100% de-classified Meursault.
No, the vines are in the commune of Meursault but appellation Bourgogne, not appellation Meursault, so they are not declassified.
by William Kelley
July 21st, 2021, 5:46 am
Forum: Wine Talk
Topic: Champagne Styles
Replies: 19
Views: 949

Re: Champagne Styles

Yes, which Champagne with which food. I would like to try old Krug with sweetbreads in tarragon sauce. I have a bottle or two of Krug Grand Cuvée from the late 1970s leftover from the dozen I purchased in anticipation of my son’s birth in early 1984; now all I need is sweetbreads in tarragon sauce…...
by William Kelley
July 21st, 2021, 5:41 am
Forum: Wine Talk
Topic: Modern vs Traditional
Replies: 62
Views: 3026

Re: Modern vs Traditional

Jerome - it's like Jay described for specific reasons. "Traditionally" wine was consumed locally and a lot of it was crap made by grandpa in the cave or cellar out back. Places like Bordeaux, which is a port, were able to ship wine outside of the local area, but many regions in Europe jus...
by William Kelley
July 20th, 2021, 5:18 pm
Forum: Wine Talk
Topic: What's the deal with 1996 champagnes? Another oxidized Dom Perignon
Replies: 26
Views: 920

Re: What's the deal with 1996 champagnes? Another oxidized Dom Perignon

Some 1996 Champagnes certainly did age faster than anticipated, going from being too young to too old without any intermission of maturity, but the 1996 DP doesn't strike me as numbering among them. Any trends or patterns to this (e.g. certain producers, communes, styles)? It seems more or less rec...
by William Kelley
July 20th, 2021, 5:16 pm
Forum: Wine Talk
Topic: Help Me Understand A Wine Critic: John Gilman (View From The Cellar)
Replies: 50
Views: 2112

Re: Help Me Understand A Wine Critic: John Gilman (View From The Cellar)

Don't most really good wines have extremely long drinking windows? My guess, for example, is that the drinking window for many really excellent German wines from 2019 is from sometime last year through the next 30-50 years. +1 on this... I also give quite broad drinking windows, but I'm just trying...
by William Kelley
July 20th, 2021, 5:08 pm
Forum: Wine Talk
Topic: What's the deal with 1996 champagnes? Another oxidized Dom Perignon
Replies: 26
Views: 920

Re: What's the deal with 1996 champagnes? Another oxidized Dom Perignon

In my experience, this is pretty consistently delicious! But, no wine region is exempt from the porous, poor quality corks of the era; and on top of that, it's a collectible vintage that has been much traded. Some 1996 Champagnes certainly did age faster than anticipated, going from being too young ...
by William Kelley
July 20th, 2021, 5:08 pm
Forum: Wine Talk
Topic: What's the deal with 1996 champagnes? Another oxidized Dom Perignon
Replies: 26
Views: 920

Re: What's the deal with 1996 champagnes? Another oxidized Dom Perignon

In my experience, this is pretty consistently delicious! But, no wine region is exempt from the porous, poor quality corks of the era; and on top of that, it's a collectible vintage that has been much traded. Some 1996 Champagnes certainly did age faster than anticipated, going from being too young ...
by William Kelley
July 20th, 2021, 5:00 pm
Forum: Wine Talk
Topic: Champagne Styles
Replies: 19
Views: 949

Re: Champagne Styles

Well, the sense I've used it is the sense in which it's used as a conventional term in French wine discourse. Obviously, it doesn't really correspond with reality... Wine discussion in a nutshell. Sorry William. I totally respect and admire your expertise, but as a nugget this is classic. Does the ...
by William Kelley
July 20th, 2021, 4:48 pm
Forum: Wine Talk
Topic: What is YOUR most recent wine purchase?
Replies: 16912
Views: 901411

Re: What is YOUR most recent wine purchase?

10x 2017 Bouley Pommard Fermiers
2x 2015 Bouley Pommard Fremiers

That 2015 is something special...
by William Kelley
July 20th, 2021, 4:46 pm
Forum: Wine Talk
Topic: Champagne Styles
Replies: 19
Views: 949

Re: Champagne Styles

In the passage quoted above, I'm using "gastronomic" to denote concentrated, vinous, structured wines, without too much dosage, that can be paired with food—in contradistinction to more, without intending to be pejorative, frivolous, aperitif styled wines—or, for that matter, and in anoth...
by William Kelley
July 20th, 2021, 2:32 pm
Forum: Wine Talk
Topic: Champagne Styles
Replies: 19
Views: 949

Re: Champagne Styles

In the passage quoted above, I'm using "gastronomic" to denote concentrated, vinous, structured wines, without too much dosage, that can be paired with food—in contradistinction to more, without intending to be pejorative, frivolous, aperitif styled wines—or, for that matter, and in anothe...
by William Kelley
July 20th, 2021, 6:14 am
Forum: Wine Talk
Topic: Modern vs Traditional
Replies: 62
Views: 3026

Re: Modern vs Traditional

This is an interesting discussion, in so far as any discussion of modern vs traditional should surely be anchored in actual evolutions in winemaking practice! Whereas most of the definitions we have here are anchored in wine style, to the extent that they could be in most cases substituted for "...
by William Kelley
July 20th, 2021, 5:31 am
Forum: Wine Talk
Topic: TN: 2018 Domaine Henri & Gilles Buisson Saint-Romain Perrière
Replies: 7
Views: 282

Re: TN: 2018 Domaine Henri & Gilles Buisson Saint-Romain Perrière

They also did very well in 2019. '19s are a touch more concentrated and a touch more tightly wound out of the gates, but with a few years' bottle age I suspect they will hit even higher highs. Perrière is one of the younger vine bottlings, if you want to see just how good they can get, try the Sous...
by William Kelley
July 19th, 2021, 5:40 pm
Forum: Wine Talk
Topic: Help Me Understand A Wine Critic: William Kelley (The Wine Advocate)
Replies: 42
Views: 2276

Re: Help Me Understand A Wine Critic: William Kelley (The Wine Advocate)

This is not always good as just this week William's review in the WA "forced" me to order a 2019 Jean Javillier. Now that is a producer I badly wanted to keep to myself! But, that is not what our subscribers pay my salary for... If you like the Côte Chalonnaise stuff, stay tuned for two b...
by William Kelley
July 19th, 2021, 5:21 pm
Forum: Wine Talk
Topic: Help Me Understand A Wine Critic: William Kelley (The Wine Advocate)
Replies: 42
Views: 2276

Re: Help Me Understand A Wine Critic: William Kelley (The Wine Advocate)

Thanks for the kind words, everyone! If it's not out of place to respond to what has been said (and it is always fascinating if a bit disconcerting to see how one is perceived my others), I would say that I do consider concentration, in terms of intensity of flavor, very important; but that I try to...
by William Kelley
July 19th, 2021, 5:06 pm
Forum: Wine Talk
Topic: Help Me Understand A Wine Critic: John Gilman (View From The Cellar)
Replies: 50
Views: 2112

Re: Help Me Understand A Wine Critic: John Gilman (View From The Cellar)

I have subscribed to John's newsletter since I was a student (I discovered it when Chris Camarda of Andrew Will emailed me a copy back in the day). I've definitely profited, and plenty of things in my cellar e.g. a lot of old Vatan are discoveries thanks to John. I love how open he is to depart from...
by William Kelley
July 19th, 2021, 5:02 pm
Forum: Wine Talk
Topic: Help Me Understand A Wine Critic: Antonio Galloni (Vinous)
Replies: 47
Views: 2215

Re: Help Me Understand A Wine Critic: Antonio Galloni (Vinous)

Covering Champagne for TWA today, I certainly feel professionally and personally appreciative of Antonio. It was thanks to his writing that, as a student, I discovered producers such as Cédric Bouchard and Ulysse Collin (Olivier Collin told me that Antonio is the only other critic—and of course the ...
by William Kelley
July 19th, 2021, 4:55 pm
Forum: Wine Talk
Topic: Help Me Understand A Wine Critic: Josh Raynolds (Vinous)
Replies: 39
Views: 1477

Re: Help Me Understand A Wine Critic: Josh Raynolds (Vinous)

There is no one and I mean NO ONE I have known about or met that knows as much about alcoholic beverages in general, ones he has consumed in specific and everything about the context in which he consumed them than Josh. If Rainman was a movie about a wine critic it would be about Josh (in the nices...
by William Kelley
July 19th, 2021, 6:57 am
Forum: Wine Talk
Topic: TN: 2018 Domaine Henri & Gilles Buisson Saint-Romain Perrière
Replies: 7
Views: 282

Re: TN: 2018 Domaine Henri & Gilles Buisson Saint-Romain Perrière

...and, if you want to enjoy the view over Sous la Velle, here it is: https://www.google.com/maps/@46.9999222 ... 384!8i8192

One of the most beautiful places in Burgundy!
by William Kelley
July 19th, 2021, 6:55 am
Forum: Wine Talk
Topic: TN: 2018 Domaine Henri & Gilles Buisson Saint-Romain Perrière
Replies: 7
Views: 282

Re: TN: 2018 Domaine Henri & Gilles Buisson Saint-Romain Perrière

They also did very well in 2019. '19s are a touch more concentrated and a touch more tightly wound out of the gates, but with a few years' bottle age I suspect they will hit even higher highs. Perrière is one of the younger vine bottlings, if you want to see just how good they can get, try the Sous ...
by William Kelley
July 19th, 2021, 6:49 am
Forum: Wine Talk
Topic: Yeah, I like aligote!
Replies: 50
Views: 3701

Re: Yeah, I like aligote!

I haven't had it in a while, but the Bouzeron Aligoté from Dom. de Villaine (owned by the family of Aubert de Villaine of DRC) can be wonderful -- full-bodied but with lots of acid and true minerality. John, I like Jadot's at half the price. Jadot bought their Bouzeron parcel from de Villaine, inte...
by William Kelley
July 19th, 2021, 6:48 am
Forum: Wine Talk
Topic: Yeah, I like aligote!
Replies: 50
Views: 3701

Re: Yeah, I like aligote!

Still got to taste Arnaud Ente but quite hopeful as he usually performs better than Benoit. 2018 was the last vintage made of Arnaud Ente's Aligoté, as the vines were ripped up (though the "2019" did get a laudatory review from at least one journalist earlier this year). So if you want to...
by William Kelley
July 18th, 2021, 8:10 am
Forum: Wine Talk
Topic: Age Worthy 2007 Champagne?
Replies: 24
Views: 1140

Re: Age Worthy 2007 Champagne?

Off the top of my head, the best 07s I have had are Dom Ruinart BdB and Cristal Rose. I know there are others, but these two are what come to mind first. Neither are inexpensive, but the Dom Ruinart BdB is still a pretty good value considering the quality of the wine - especially in 2007. I had the...
by William Kelley
July 18th, 2021, 6:59 am
Forum: Wine Talk
Topic: Domaine Philippe Leclerc In Gevrey
Replies: 14
Views: 1174

Re: Domaine Philippe Leclerc In Gevrey

In-cellar direct sale mostly. For the last ~20 years no reviews by RP, JR, AG etc. That doesn't make the domaine harder to review... I will try to put here some facts, no opinion, just facts. 1. I read that AG has 2000$ monthly plan for the trade, 3 days score info before the “regular” subscribers....
by William Kelley
July 17th, 2021, 4:31 pm
Forum: Wine Talk
Topic: Domaine Philippe Leclerc In Gevrey
Replies: 14
Views: 1174

Re: Domaine Philippe Leclerc In Gevrey

Ofer Refaeli wrote: July 16th, 2021, 11:04 am In-cellar direct sale mostly.
For the last ~20 years no reviews by RP, JR, AG etc.
That doesn't make the domaine harder to review...
by William Kelley
July 16th, 2021, 10:21 am
Forum: Wine Talk
Topic: 2009 Red Burgs ?
Replies: 13
Views: 816

Re: 2009 Red Burgs ?

What I have, or have opened recently, has been evolving very gracefully. Mugneret Vosne, DRC Echézeaux and Bouley Fremiers are all still some way from maturity, but showing beautiful depth and plenitude. There's a lot of fruit, but it's succulent and fresh though ripe. The 2009 I didn't enjoy recent...
by William Kelley
July 16th, 2021, 6:22 am
Forum: Wine Talk
Topic: Domaine Philippe Leclerc In Gevrey
Replies: 14
Views: 1174

Re: Domaine Philippe Leclerc In Gevrey

Ofer Refaeli wrote: July 16th, 2021, 6:09 am Another interesting aspect is the out-of-the-box business model, that probably makes it difficult for the winery with the professional reviewers, but give us, wine lovers, very good Burgundy wine for less.
What's that?
by William Kelley
July 16th, 2021, 4:30 am
Forum: Wine Talk
Topic: Evening land vosne romanee
Replies: 4
Views: 883

Re: Evening land vosne romanee

Robert Sand wrote: July 15th, 2021, 8:08 am On every wine bottle there must be an indication of the producer, at least on the back label (which then is the legal major label).
I suppose a negociant ...
But that indication can be just a number, which is hard to figure out...
by William Kelley
July 15th, 2021, 1:00 pm
Forum: Wine Talk
Topic: Bizarre Bizot
Replies: 30
Views: 1141

Re: Bizarre Bizot

i have never found them to outclass their appellation. This has definitely been happening in recent vintages. '17 Jachées I'd rather drink than plenty of Grands Crus Vosne from that vintage, and 15 Marsannay Clos du Roy was incredible. I only really drink them in restaurants in Burgundy, but I have...
by William Kelley
July 15th, 2021, 9:35 am
Forum: Wine Talk
Topic: Bizarre Bizot
Replies: 30
Views: 1141

Re: Bizarre Bizot

i have never found them to outclass their appellation. This has definitely been happening in recent vintages. '17 Jachées I'd rather drink than plenty of Grands Crus Vosne from that vintage, and 15 Marsannay Clos du Roy was incredible. I only really drink them in restaurants in Burgundy, but I have...
by William Kelley
July 15th, 2021, 8:30 am
Forum: Wine Talk
Topic: Bizarre Bizot
Replies: 30
Views: 1141

Re: Bizarre Bizot

Ian Dorin wrote: July 15th, 2021, 7:55 am Thanks for taking the time to explain it all.
Just my interpretation... thanks for taking the time to read.

If you manage to cross paths with a 2017 Jachées for a halfway reasonable price, don't hesitate, it's the best Bizot wine I ever drank!
by William Kelley
July 15th, 2021, 7:12 am
Forum: Wine Talk
Topic: Bizarre Bizot
Replies: 30
Views: 1141

Re: Bizarre Bizot

I'm with you here. Not that I don't think Ryan is mis-stating his impressions, but Bizot has never struck me as an oaky producer. I also don't think there would be a huge craze for a Burgundy producer that was showing heavy signs of new oak. (Perrot-Minot would never have changed his style if that ...
by William Kelley
July 15th, 2021, 7:02 am
Forum: Wine Talk
Topic: Parker: Green Wines Flag
Replies: 24
Views: 1308

Re: Parker: Green Wines Flag

I think it's an excellent idea which other publications would do well to copy. I asked Vinous to do the same last year, to no avail. There are a growing number of consumers who prefer these wines and a growing number of wineries who are providing them. Obviously, if TWA covered the Loire it would b...
by William Kelley
July 15th, 2021, 6:16 am
Forum: Wine Talk
Topic: Bizarre Bizot
Replies: 30
Views: 1141

Re: Bizarre Bizot

Are you sure that it was oak or rather just a strong smoky smell from the stems - that would be my impression of 2014/2015s chez Bizot... I'm with you here. Not that I don't think Ryan is mis-stating his impressions, but Bizot has never struck me as an oaky producer. I also don't think there would ...
by William Kelley
July 14th, 2021, 4:20 pm
Forum: Wine Talk
Topic: Parker: Green Wines Flag
Replies: 24
Views: 1308

Re: Parker: Green Wines Flag

As William made clear, at this point, other than registering those that are certified, they are basing this on reviewers' knowledge of the vineyards they review. This is bound to create obvious lacunae in that even well-known vineyards that, for one reason or another, don't get noticed, will be lef...
by William Kelley
July 14th, 2021, 10:25 am
Forum: Wine Talk
Topic: TN: The Other White Burgundy aka. Aligoté - a study of 16 wines
Replies: 19
Views: 758

Re: TN: The Other White Burgundy aka. Aligoté - a study of 16 wines

is Morey-Saint-Denis 1er Cru Clos des Monts Luisants VV from Ponsot the most expensive Aligoté? According to wine-searcher, no - even though it is the only 1er Cru Aligoté in the world. For example that Leroy Aligoté we tasted fetches higher prices on average than Ponsot. So do Arnaud Ente and Coch...
by William Kelley
July 14th, 2021, 10:21 am
Forum: Wine Talk
Topic: Decanting champagne
Replies: 56
Views: 1661

Re: Decanting champagne

Cedric would be happy if his wine had no bubbles. -Al I'm not sure he thinks quite like that any more, I think he has come to terms with bubbles. Maybe this is because he has finally found a place where he's able to make still wines that satisfy him. What remains very much the case, of course, is t...
by William Kelley
July 13th, 2021, 5:04 pm
Forum: Wine Talk
Topic: TN: 2017 Roblet-Monnot Volnay Saint-Francois
Replies: 18
Views: 827

Re: TN: 2017 Roblet-Monnot Volnay Saint-Francois

I stumbled into some 2002 Volnay Pitures a few years ago, which i thought was quite good. A little on the opulent side, though. I don't think he does a Pitures every year. I'm supposed to have one bottle left, but I can't seem to find it anywhere. The trend over the years here (as pretty much every...
by William Kelley
July 13th, 2021, 4:38 pm
Forum: Wine Talk
Topic: Decanting champagne
Replies: 56
Views: 1661

Re: Decanting champagne

In response to the question to William if he ever decants champagne: "You know, I confess that I don't. I do think that, between crown caps and increasing use of technical closures, contemporary Champagne can be too frothy: making it the old fashioned way, you start with six bars and you might...
by William Kelley
July 13th, 2021, 4:31 pm
Forum: Wine Talk
Topic: Decanting champagne
Replies: 56
Views: 1661

Re: Decanting champagne

A little thread drift, but since people have brought up the strength of the bubbles, does anyone know of producers other than Roger Coulon that bottle their Champagne with less atmospheres? Lilbert-Fils Perle There are plenty, and even Roederer is playing with it. Mumm de Cramant has been around fo...
by William Kelley
July 13th, 2021, 4:27 pm
Forum: Wine Talk
Topic: Decanting champagne
Replies: 56
Views: 1661

Re: Decanting champagne

I agree with others -- young Champagne is often too effervescent or more effervescent than it needs to be, so I'm not concerned about that when decanting. Also, I think there's so much more to great Champagne than the bubbles, and I'm more concerned with the wine showing well /opening up than havin...
by William Kelley
July 13th, 2021, 2:32 pm
Forum: Wine Talk
Topic: Parker: Green Wines Flag
Replies: 24
Views: 1308

Re: Yup...

Yup, Julian. That would be my speculation as well. You have to pay to submit your wine list for consideration for an award. Pay to play it's called. Tom You could have actually taken the time to look into it more than cursorily before speculating so uncharitably, but hey... Yes, because there is ze...
by William Kelley
July 13th, 2021, 2:08 pm
Forum: Wine Talk
Topic: Parker: Green Wines Flag
Replies: 24
Views: 1308

Re: Yup...

You know this for a fact, Julian?? Or just speculating? Tom Speculating, but I doubt a for-profit wine rating service will do all the work of getting all that specific information for every single winery without some payment. It’s not uncommon to have to pay to get certifications. Yup, Julian. That...
by William Kelley
July 13th, 2021, 2:07 pm
Forum: Wine Talk
Topic: Parker: Green Wines Flag
Replies: 24
Views: 1308

Re: Parker: Green Wines Flag

I think you have misunderstood this, folks. This initiative has two components: one is that we are adding whether a winery or a cuvée produced by a winery is certified organic or biodynamic. A filter has been added to our database so subscribers can search for such wines. The other is that, for a ve...
by William Kelley
July 12th, 2021, 10:41 am
Forum: Wine Talk
Topic: The Best .375 Champagne
Replies: 12
Views: 685

Re: The Best .375 Champagne

I enjoy 375s of Lédru's Brut. Given it's quite a tight wine, the somewhat more rapid evolution isn't such an issue, and she uses Mytiks on it so it's consistent. Bizarrely, at my local caviste, 375s are not allocated whereas 750 ml bottles are, which adds to the appeal, as I buy everything they get ...
by William Kelley
July 12th, 2021, 5:44 am
Forum: Wine Talk
Topic: TN: 2017 Roblet-Monnot Volnay Saint-Francois
Replies: 18
Views: 827

Re: TN: 2017 Roblet-Monnot Volnay Saint-Francois

billnanson wrote: July 12th, 2021, 2:46 am I've visited on and off for a few years - only off when we couldn't define a rdv. One of the top producers in 2017 - from any village - and certainly from the Côte de Beaune...
Emotional wines I wrote after my first visit...
Emotional wines captures my sentiments exactly!
by William Kelley
July 11th, 2021, 3:02 pm
Forum: Wine Talk
Topic: TN: 2018 Domaine Guillemot-Michel Viré-Clessé Quintaine
Replies: 3
Views: 344

Re: TN: 2018 Domaine Guillemot-Michel Viré-Clessé Quintaine

These wines age well, and quite slowly. To my palate, a vintage such as 2008 is perfect to drink right now. I think 2018 will likely evolve faster than 2008, but I would expect it to be better in five years than it is today, with no deterioration by any metric. I have quite a bit of 2017 and plan on...

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