Had an absolute knockout meal at The Kitchen last week…kudos to chefs Zonca, Selland, et al for one of the most consistently enjoyable dining experiences around. Had some great stuff from their estimable list as well…
J Cuvée 20 Brut NV
All about crisp, refreshing flavor and bright effervescence, this one has apples, citrus, and a faint yeasty note in great balance. Very refreshing and uplifting, but sophisticated at the same time.
Pierre Morlet MV Brut, Grande Reserve, Premier Cru
Awesome, lively nose with lemon, toast, and apple. Lively and agile while still carrying enough heft on the palate to take on food very well. A really nice creamy/butterscotch component, probably from the older wine blended in. Satisfying, lengthy finish.
Black Bart 2006 Marsanne, Stagecoach Vineyard
A surprise from a label I’d not heard of. Delightful nose of pear, spring blossoms, and melon. Not as acidic as I anticipated, but lithe enough to work with tuna tartare and shrimp in chili aioli. Delicious summer fruit profile meshed brilliantly with melon in the dish.
Anthill Farms 2007, Demuth Vineyard
Sounded a bit young, but what the heck. Actually, quite ready to go. A generous cherry, earth, and cedar/sandalwood nose is the prelude to mouth-filling, juicy berry and vanilla flavor elements. Really drinking well right out of the gate, no roughness or imbalance here.
Scholium Project 2004, “Babylon”, Tenbrink Vineyard
This one is still very much on my mind. Triple-decanted about 3 1/2 hours earlier, this impenetrably super-dark elixir had a nose that’s like the roar of the tiger before attack, with layers of dark fruit, rose petals, earth, tar, and sagebrush. The wine has real up-front grip; another 5 or 10 years probably won’t move it very far. Just mammoth blackberry, granitic minerality, and muscular tannins, with a finish that doesn’t quit. God only knows how this beast will age, but absolutely worth a try now (decant for a long time in advance!).