TNs: Nice Burgundies (Groffier, Dujac, Ilan, Angerville, Clair)

Yesterday I went to a Burgundy tasting. I haven’t been drinking much wine recently so I guess one reason I was so enthralled by the wines is deprivation. Another reason is that they might very well be truly lovely wines.

Jean-Marc Vincent Auxey-Duresses “Les Hautes” 2011
I’m not usually a fan of white Burgundy but this was mostly nice: despite a bit more oak than I’d prefer (age should correct that) it had nice citric and acidic sensations so it was refreshing in addition to the neutrality of the grape combined with oak.

Groffier Bourgogne Pinot Noir 2012
A very attractive and stylish wine, very pure Pinosity; it has the attractive bite I associate with stem inclusions though IIRC it isn’t! But this is still an amazingly beautiful wine for what is a straight Bourgogne Rouge.

Dujac Gevrey-Chambertin 2011
More oak showing but also lovely purity of Pinosity and even some stems (I think - too long a break from wine, so I’m not so sure of myself). Lovley bite on the palate mixed with cherry sourness. It’s quite delicious.

Maison Ilan Morey-St.-Denis “Les Monts Luisants” 2010
Pure Pinosity, slightly funky and slightly rustic, fresh, lively and very tasty. To my tastes it could use time to calm down: the oak was on some sniffs a bit forward, the wine was changing all the time, sometimes mute aromatically sometimes very expressive. I thought it was very good and very interesting. I know there have been problems with deliveries etc. but as difficult as it is to distance oneself from such problems, I still found the wine very attractive - one of my favourites this evening, in fact.

d’Angerville Volnay Taillepieds 2000
Quite a voluptuous and rich style with very ripe, strawberry smelling fruit. Tannic still but sweet and ripe and easy to drink. It is kind of an “easy” wine in being so forward and sweet. But it still had obvious Pinosity and obviousness is not always a problem if so attractive.

Joseph Roty Gevrey-Chambertin Les Champs-Chenys 1999
Big, bold, oaky, forward - maybe I’ve really been away from wine too long if even this kind of OTT, in-your-face kind of wine seems attractive to me. Very rich and ripe, big, bold - and also refreshing on the finish. Weird. I hate OTT and oaky wines yet this was just wonderful. I guess no one should trust anything I write until I get my preferences sorted out again! :smiley:

Bruno Clair Vosnes-Romanée “Champs Perdrix” 1996
Cloudy colour but that shouldn’t scare anyone since the scent was lovely: pure Pinosity that is drinking superbly and doesn’t tire at all even after a couple hours in the glass. It is still pretty rich and ripe but has enough structure to keep it fresh and endless. Quite lovely.


While cleaning up we opened up a couple more wines, all served blind:

Domaine de Majas Chardonnay 2010 - VdP Côtes Catalanes
Very strong lees aromas. And I like that. The fruit is quite neutral underneath that and that made me, obviously, think of Muscadet. But the first sip proved that I must be somewhere else since it was powerful, fruity, dense, ripe and voluptuous - yet the acidity was fairly high and the whole was very moreish. Intriguing and very tasty.

Domaine Grand Lauze Ledogar 2008
A Carignan blend. Very sweet and ripe, so far from today’s theme that this seemed a bit hard to come to terms with. But it was a nice wine if one can handle such ripeness, alcohol and a complete different style after so many Burgundies. But it did have lovely freshness on the finish. Intriguing for sure, and I’d love to try it again in a few years to see if would calm down.

Navazos-Niepoort Vino Blanco 2012
Something completely strange and utterly lovely. A sherry styled wine that is only 12,5% abv but still smells of a fantastic Fino but is fresh. Perhaps not high in acidity yet it still tastes refreshing. A weird halfway point between a Sherry and a table wine but absolutely lovely.

I’m a big fan of Roty Burgs.
In their youth the wines can show a lot of oak.
But this slowly mellows over time.
The producer uses fairly heavily charred barrels and causes the wines to have
a rather Hammy or Bacony nose and palate, which I love.
As Homer Simpson says; “Ahhhhh Bacon”. [wink.gif]

TTT

Ooof, I hate this character in Pinot Noir (though I know and can appreciate that others like it). I call it Côte-Roty…

But the wines sound lovely otherwise. (Didn’t want to be a total grouch…) Especially that d’Angerville Taillepieds – I’ll take that cru from that producer over almost any other wine almost any time…

It was a point of discussion in the NYC WT crowd that we didn’t understand why we liked Roty so much. It seemed like we shouldn’t and yet we did.

I liked the first few vintages of the NN but haven’t had the 2012. If you like this you should try the Florpower.