Despite a lifetime of living in Northern California, I’ve only recently come back to drinking Cali cabs and I’m feeling a little lost. In the 90s, I enjoyed Stag’s Leap, Heitz, and Scherrer. Over the years, I’ve also enjoyed some of the newer style cabs, but lately, I’m finding that most of the stuff I try is just way over the top (for me…) in oak and alcohol.
Of course, I’m aware of the Ridge, Montelena, and some of the other big names with more structure and I’ve got a few of them tucked away for aging. However, is anyone making a pop n’ pour cab these days that doesn’t taste like a vanilla milk shake? I’m ok with a variety of price points.
Laurel Glen makes a less expensive wine from Sonoma Mountain called Counterpoint. You might wish to try out the other Cabernet-dominant reds from Sonoma Mountain/Valley.
Also, Trefethen and Groth are what I might call more “traditional” Napa Cabs. Mt Veeder and maybeFranciscan could be pleasant. It’s been a while since I have tasted either.
I always have to recommend the top-shelf Cabernet Sauvignon from Adelaida in Paso Robles, because YUM!
Thanks all. I’ll check some of these out. To be clear, I don’t mind a little oak, and I’m up for a wide range of price points if the quality is there. Just found a Ramey cab on K&L and will give it a try. Drew, thanks for the reminder on Groth–it’s been awhile, but I recall liking their wines.
Robert, I know exactly what you mean. Too much oak, alcohol, and ripeness has become the excepted standard in the making of high end Cabs. Apparently a lot of folks like this style, not me!
With regard to the suggested wines, I have to disagree with Ramey, too over the top for me. I do agree with Laurel Glen, and I agree with Chateau Montelena, but their Estate, its made in a more classic style than their regular less expensive Napa Valley Cab.
Steven Kent
Accessible early but still age wonderfully
Recommend his single vineyard series cabs for $65. (Particularly home ranch but smith and ghielmetti are great too). You can find the standard cab sometimes in the high 20s (safeway and costco in east bay)
($155) Lineage Bordeaux Blend
-light on its feet
Dunne on Blind tasting between Lineage and insignia, opus, harlan, continuum.
Wineohtv’s review of the tasting
Wine A was fairly balanced, somewhat heavy and overly tannic. Next was Wine B, which was certainly tight and grippy, possessed of ample green weediness. Wine C was lauded for its lightness of foot, its bright, sweet fruit and energy, and lingering finish. Wine D was universally praised for its engaging aromatics, fleshy complexity and great mouthfeel. Nobody felt the love for Wine E, which was nasty on the nose, scouring on the palate and pretty much undrinkable. Wine F was liked by one writer more than others: it was a bit over the top in that California richly ripe style.
When asked to vote for their faves, the winner was Wine D, followed fairly closely by Wine C. Nobody picked Wine B or E as their faves.
And the Winner Is…
Wine A: Joseph Phelps Insignia ($150)
Wine B: Château Cos Labory, Saint-Estèphe ($50)
Wine C: Steven Kent Winery Lineage ($125)
Wine D: Opus One ($230)
Wine E: Harlan Estate ($800)
Wine F: Continuum ($175)
Steve heimoff on the 2011 lineage
96 Steven Kent 2011 Lineage Red Wine (Livermore Valley); $165. As far as I know, this is Kent’s most expensive wine ever, and also the most expensive to come out of Livermore Valley. I imagine his motive to go in this direction—the ’11 Lineage is his fifth under that proprietary name–after the many critical plaudits he was receiving for his Cabernets, was to make a low-production reserve-of-reserves (production was about 300 cases). The wine is 62% Cabernet Sauvignon; the rest is Merlot, Cab Franc, Petit Verdot and Malbec. The alcohol is 14.1%. I mention that because, as superbly ripe as the wine is, it is in no way hot or heavy. It is an absolute pleasure to drink now, offering waves of blackberry compote, cassis liqueur, dark chocolate shavings, black licorice, violet petals and smoky, toasted oak, leading to a long finish of black pepper, cinnamon and star anise. The texture is as fine as any Cab I’ve ever had. Remarkably smooth, complex tannins, set off by lively acidity. This is really a beautiful wine, all the more impressive for the challenging vintage conditions. Steven Kent says how hard he and his team worked on assembling the final blend after “scores of mock blends” were tried out. They succeeded. I would drink this beauty over the next six years.
Clos du Val still makes pretty old-school Cab, at least with their base bottling (not familiar with recent vintages of the reserve if they still do one). Oh, and Corison (not that it hasn’t been said).
I’m surprised to see suggestions for Rafanelli and La Jota.
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