Here some notes about a MORSTEIN vertical in 2014 in Berlin.
In general the Morstein Riesling is marked by stone fruit, limestone, tobacco and power.
Site
Morstein is situated on the south-facing slope that stretches from Gundersheim to Westhofen. The subsoil consists of massive limestone rocks. The first documented mention of the site dates from 1282. Today, we own about 4 ha (10 acres) in the best (southeastern exposure) parcel of this vineyard.
Soil
The upper layer of soil is primarily heavy clayish marl interspersed with limestone. The subsoil is also heavy and marked by layers of limestone that help circulate water. This ensures that the vines are well supplied with nutrients and minerals, and accounts for the mineral character of our Morstein.
My favorite vintages of the vertical were of course the cool climate vintages 2004, 2008, 2010 and 2012. And I was also impressed by the wonderful 2007 and I was really surprised of the performance by 2003 “Am Turm”. We also had the auction wine 2011 “La Borne” which is a magic white wine and could easily compete with the best Burgundy has to offer.
Morstein GG 2012
Very, very closed at this night. From sip to sip the brilliancy flashed up. But this happens with outstanding wines sometimes, they doesn´t perform such brilliantly every night or like the famous austrian winemaker Lucas Pichler said "“Große Weine müssen nicht immer und zu jeder Zeit gut sein”. Anyway, on the last tastings in Wiesbaden and Berlin I gave him 95-96/100. BUY
Morstein GG 2011
This is not my ideal of a Morstein. I missed finesse, precision, clarity, brilliance. Also quite developed already. Not suitable for long storage, I would drink it now or in the next 3-5 years. On the other hand it offers a lot of drinking pleasure due to its opulent fruit. Ein Maul voll Wein. 91/100
Morstein GG 2010
My favorite vintage for Dry Riesling marked by precision, acidity, purity and minerality. Looong life ahead. The vintage 2012 will certainly top it in the long run. But we will see in 10 years. 94/100
Morstein GG 2009
Quite strange performance, such diffuse flavors. Maybe not in the mood right now? Bad bottle??
Morstein GG 2008
A vintage for freaks. No doubt, a very special vintage. Not everybody´s cup of Riesling. I like it. Quite similar to the vintage 2010, but a bit more wild. Big future. 93+/100
Morstein GG 2007
A role-model for Dry Riesling. It has everything to offer what the people like regarding Riesling, fruit&minerality&freshness&finesse and drinking pleasure. Here we have what MORSTEIN is all about, stone fruit, limestone, tobacco and power. Wonderful to drink right now, but no hurry. 93/100
Morstein GG 2006
Quite difficult vintage in Rheinhessen. A lot of rain in autumnn which means the wines are marked by botrytis.
Morstein GG 2005
Quite nice performance. Not really an outstanding vintage. Anyway offers a lot of drinking pleasure. Drink it now. 91/100
Morstein GG 2004
Finesse par excellance. Absolutely gorgeous structure&texture, like the palate will we wrapped in silk. In addition a hint of the former brute minerality. A few months ago I had even a better bottle in the famous CORDOBAR. 92-93/100
Morstein GG 2003
Too big, too broad. 90/100
Morstein “Am Turm” Alte Reben 2003
WOW, what a surprising performance for such a hot vintage. Such subtle&sublime. No wonder, here we have 10g RS 92/100
“La Borne” Alte Reben 2011 – auction wine
A masterpiece! Shows the complexity&lenght of an outstanding white whine. Could easily compete with the best white wines in the World. 96/100