TN : 1975 Chateau Taillefer - Pomerol

Lorraine picked up some Alberta lamb shanks from our neighbourhood butcher and prepared a delicious meal last evening. We were joined by two other couples. The Osso Bucco was served with a stacked vegetable and rice tower and butternut squash. The first course was a salad featuring butter lettuce, fried goat cheese, and an accompanying dried cherry vinegrette. Dessert was a tasty lemon torte.

I read through a thread here earlier in the week on Bordeaux from the 1970’s and, when I ventured into my cellar, I was seeking an older Bordeaux to accompany the Osso Bucco. Came across a bin containing several bottles of the 1975 Chateau Taillefer (Pomerol) - Vignobles Moueux Pere & Fils. These have been in my cellar since release and over the years have managed to consume most of the initial two cases purchased. In the beginning the wine was somewhat stiff, but gradually mellowed over the years. Probably drank most during the early '90’s.

Pulled two bottles of the Taillefer and decanted them about 4 hours before dinner. Fill levels were both about 3/4" above the shoulder; long corks extracted in one piece thanks to careful application of my Durand opener; sediment covered the funnel screen and there remained a fair amount clinging to the inside of the bottle. Colour a dark mahogany, with a slight amber rim; bouquet showed a variety of spice and hazelnut, along with a mix of dark fruits…possibly a floral note also; smooth entry on the palate with the plum and blackberry fruits running to the back; rich, velvety texture; lasted very long…most satisfying finish. The wine seemed to get better with additional time in the decanters…remarkable for a wine of this age, and even more remarkable for a wine which, at the time of purchase, had no history evident for long aging.

Our background music was mostly from Puccini, and opera composer that I very much enjoy, and we finished the evening playing Stephane Grapelli’s and Michel Petrucciani’s album Flamingo. They were accompanied by Roy Haynes on drums and George Mraz on bass.

Nice evening with good friends !

Hank

Nice one Hank. Haven’t tasted the '75, but I am a fan of modern-day Taillefer. Under-rated, under the radar, and good value.

I had bought some Taillefer 2005 during the September wine campaign in France, and was quite underwhelmed. Just a dull wine with nothing special to it. At 20€ I can find way better wines (or more to my liking).

Alain

Never even heard of the producer; thanks for the note Hank!

A friend really wanted to try one and opened a 2012 on Friday.

It is currently in a dumb phase right now. Many years too early.

i have a '71 and a '12 i planning on opening together soon. i hope the results are interesting!

From memory, Neal, this is an old property, dating back into the 18th Century. It was acquired by Antoine Moueix in the mid-1920’s, and it was subsequently passed on to his son Bernard. This is one of the branches of the Moueix Family, and I believe they also own Chateau La Tour-du-Pin Figeac in St.Emilion, another wine that I am familiar with. More recently the property was passed along to Bernard’s children, Claire and Antoine.

Production is about 7,000 cases annually; from vineyards grown to 75% Merlot and 25% Cabernet Franc. Actual blend may depend upon the vintage. Approximately one-third new oak barrels are used.

This probably represents good value in a Bordeaux, with latest releases in the $ 30 range. I paid just under $ 80 for each of the two cases of 1975 that I purchased on release. Based upon my experience with the 1975 this wine would appear to have some cellar aging potential. I haven’t bought any of the recent vintages, likely stemming from the stiff an unyielding 1975 experience. Romero;s generally attract a much higher price point.

Hank

Yes the property dates at least the late 18th century, as the vines were there on the Belleyme map (a copy of which Claire Moueix has hanging in the cellars). It came to the Moueix family during the early 20th century, and eventually to Bernard, then to his widow Catherine who has been running it for as long as I know. In the past few years their daughter Claire is increasingly involved. She worked in advertising first, but came back to Bordeaux, worked a couple of ‘stages’ at Petrus and Chevel Blanc, and will presumably eventually take over from Catherine. Her brother Antoine works in the family négociant business - I am not sure how involved he is, if at all.

The family did once own one of the two La Tour du Pin Figeac vineyards, but this was sold to LVMH years ago, had five vintages as La Tour du Pin, before being wound up and separated - 2 hectares were absorbed into Cheval Blanc, the rest may be where Cheval Blanc have planted their white vines, but I need to check that next time I visit.

Thanks for the update, Chris. I wasn’t aware either that the La Tour-du-Pin Figeac had been sold. I still have a few bottles of the 1970 in my cellar. I haven’t opened one in a number of years but it also lasted quite well.These were also purchased on release…something like 10 cases, I believe, went into my cellar…at the staggering price of $ 54/case.

Hank

We had the 2010 Taillefer about a month ago and it was drinking very well. I was pleasantly surprised at how good it was.

I’ve been seeing Taillefer more in recent years in the US. I think I put away a 2010.

I have to ask - why would you buy 10 cases of some of these wines? what if you didn’t like it?

good question, Arv…simple answer.

I had just finished building a cellar in my home at the time the 1970 Bordeaux wines were being released, and the new cellar had only a handful of wines in the bins. I needed wines to fill those empty bins. At the time the only source was the then Alberta Liquor Control Board, the monopoly that operated some 200 retail outlets in the Province. I read some of the critic reviews, and there were but a handful of those around, and these seemed to summarize the vintage quality as “a useful vintage for early drinking”. That assessment changed some months after I acquired the wines, as the critics collectively mistook the balance of the '70’s as meaning they wouldn’t age. Well history has proven that this was indeed a vintage that was attractive early but had solid aging potential.

I didn’t just buy 10 cases…and in fact purchased over 100 cases of these 1970 Bordeaux, and the cellar was on its way. I shared some of these purchases with friends. These ranged from Chateau d’Angludet at $3.55/bottle to Chateau Leoville Las Cases at $6.60/bottle to Chateau Palmer at $8.00/bottle to Chateau Margaux at $14.00/bottle. Other purchases were within this range also. All were in case lots.

What was not to like in quality Bordeaux at these prices?

Hank

Wow, that mut have been some cellar Hank. Amazing to think you still have a few of those very early purchases tucked away.