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23/09/16 - Today’s newspaper (Le Sud-Ouest) reports that Hubert de Boüard de Laforest, co-owner of Château Angélus and other estates on Bordeaux’s Right Bank, has just lost his libel case against Isabelle Saporta, author of “Vino Business” in the Paris criminal court. He had claimed 50,000 euros in damages and 10,000 euros for legal expenses.
De Boüard sued Spaorta for, among other niceties, describing him as a “le petit Machiavel du vin,” “le renard” (the fox), and “un parvenu” (an upstart).
While the judges admitted that the book gave “an extremely negative image” of de Boüard, their considered opinion was that "nothing in the book could be considered libellous ".
I have read Saporta’s book, which makes no pretence of objectivity. It sets out to be an exposé and contains a fair amount of bile. Still, the author’s descriptions of the way the Saint Emilion classification was conducted (in which Angléus was bumped up to the supreme category, and for which de Boüard may have had unfair influence…) and the role of Jean-Pierre Moueix in Pomerol are eye-opening.
Vino Business reminds me of another largely negative book about Bordeaux, William Echikson’s “Noble Rot: a Bordeaux Wine Revolution”, in which the author writes a number of nasty things about Alexandre de Lur Saluces, among other well-known figures.
Alex,
I read the book too, and agree there is bile, but I think she made some pretty fair points talking about the industry and how it is way too close to being homogenized.
Talking of legal cases, do you know what happened to the challenges to the new St. Emilion classification?
Another example of a French bureaucrat siding with the little guy for the sake of helping the underdog. That judge clearly doesn’t understand the internal dynamics of SE… The decision is a load of BS
In late 2015, the Administrative Tribunal ruled against three châteaux that had been excluded from the 2012 classification: Corbin Michotte, Croque Michotte, and La Tour du Pin Figeac (the one not owned by Cheval Blanc, which no longer exists).
These 3 estates have appealed that decision.
For info 96 châteaux applied for cru classé status. 82 were accepted.
In the event that these châteaux win out, the way the next classification is established will need to be completely revised.
What happens if Pavie doesn’t maintain their standing next time round? Or are we to assume that the classification in Saint Emilion is just a pretense?
Blake,
This was not a French bureaucrat. This was the French judicial system.
And justice is blind - everywhere!
The freedom of the press is held to be sacred in France. That is why the Charlie Hebdo murders were considered especially shocking. Agreed that abuse of this liberty is sometimes allowed…
When you write that “the judge clearly doesn’t understand the internal dynamics of SE” you are certainly correct.
Several times on English speaking forums such as this, wine lovers have said that they don’t give a hoot whether a Saint-Emilion is classified or not. Be this as it may, the value of an estate’s wine, and of the property itself, goes up or down significantly according to their inclusion on exclusion.
Of course, the appellation system in Saint-Emilion is fundamentally screwed, with very few people able to make the distinction between grand cru and grand cru classé - especially when a wine made by the local coop can claim the same AOC - Saint Emilion Grand Cru - as Ausone or Cheval Blanc…
By the way, I thought Gérard Perse’s engraving of Premier Grand Cru Classé “A” on the front of his new cellar was very tacky, pretentious, and arrogant. https://www.google.fr/maps/uv?hl=fr&pb= … oioIjwEwEA
That is easily fixed Alex. All you need is a bloke with a ladder, a trowel and some cement filler.
If the only basis of the libel case was the names she called him, I’m surprised it got that far. Maybe French libel laws are tougher than US ones but you aren’t libeled just because someone insults you. I’m glad that that’s true in France too. If you are a public figure, here, and I think Bouard would fit that description, you aren’t even libeled just because someone says something about you that can be proved to be inaccurate.
The chief accusation (other than the man’s supposed megalomania), is his intrusion into the process by which the new classification was made. In short, he is said to be have been both judge and jury and abused his position. He is recorded as having taken part in several meetings of the classification committee, when he clearly should have recused himself.
Also, he is a consultant “à la Rolland” for several other châteaux, all of which did well in 2012…
The insinutations are clear in the book, and it’s not surprising that de Boüard fought back.
He can still appeal…
As regards Angélus and Pavie, I have not met anyone, not one single person who feels that their promotion was justified. Perhaps someone on Berserkers can set me straight .
As I say, I don’t know French libel laws. In the US, unless you can prove that statements made were actually factually incorrect AND that the author knew them to be incorrect or had reasonable cause to know them to be incorrect and still published with the intent to defame, one hasn’t been libeled. Needless to say, except in rare cases, those laws even protect the most outrageous National Enquirer stories. Bouard wouldn’t be within shouting distance of a case here.
I think of all the Right Bank consultants, de Boüard is the only one, whose wines are worth drinking.
He seems to have found a happy medium between modernism and elegance. Best of all, the wines aren’t OTT, they don’t have that fructose quality that Troplong or Pavie have, and they have a spring to them that comes from decent acidity.
But of course, Angelus is not an classe A, and based on a fairly comprehensive tasting of his wines after the promotion, they are in the band just below, probably let down a little by the terroir. I would think that if he consulted for Pavie or Figeac, and with those terroirs, they might just make wines of classe A standard, and still have the modern feel.
Why? They earned it. It is their legal right . It is on their labels too. You should let Mr. Perse know this, the next time you see him.
Of course, the appellation system in Saint-Emilion is fundamentally screwed, with very few people able to make the distinction between grand cru and grand cru classé - especially when a wine made by the local coop can claim the same AOC - Saint Emilion Grand Cru - as Ausone or Cheval Blanc…
When the coop in Pauillac states they are in the same AOC as Latour, that is not a problem, but when it happens in St. Emilion, it is? Interesting logic…
It showed incredible hubris and the worst side of people with lots of money, parvenus and nouveaux riches with no taste (Pavie’s new cellar looks like it belongs in f*cking Las Vegas).
Do you see any other famous estate doing what Perse did?
Let’s put aside the questionable way in which Pavie and Angélus were promoted, and the disbelief of many Bordeaux lovers and connossieurs who think they don’t deserve it.
Let’s concentrate on the fact that the friggin’ classification is revised every 10 years.
By carving the nature of his temporary classification in stone on the front of the cellar, Perse is proclaiming to the world that he has reached the uppermost echelon, and that this will not change.
Whereas that is horseshit. It makes a mockery of the whole classification.
Mind you, the people in Saint-Emilion have done a pretty good job of screwing things up all on their own without assistance from an outsider like Perse!
The situation between the Pauillac coop and Latour, and what it’s like in Saint Emilion are not comparable!
The words “grand cru” appear in Saint-Emilion at the drop of a hat, and the vast majority of consumers do not make the distinction between grand cru and grand cru classé. It’s meant to be confusing!
The 10 euro a bottle “grand cru” and the 500 euro a bottle (or much more…) Premieur Grand Cru Classé ‘A’ both share the same AOC “grand cru”. Geeks know the difference. The public does not.
Those 2 words - grand cru - explain why Saint Emilion is not the same as the example you mentioned of Pauillac.
For the ˜ over top a letter, hold down the “option” key and press the “N” key. This will put the ˜ with a yellow highlight. Then release the “option” key and put whatever letter you want under the ˜ so it looks like this: ñ
For the ¨ over top a letter, hold down the “option” key and press the “U” key. This will put the ¨ with a yellow highlight. Then release the “option” key and put whatever letter you want under the ¨ so it looks like this: ü
For the ˆ over top a letter, hold down the “option” key and press the “I” key. This will put the ˆ with a yellow highlight. Then release the “option” key and put whatever letter you want under the ˆ so it looks like this: â
For the ´ over top a letter, hold down the “option” key and press the “E” key. This will put the ´ with a yellow highlight. Then release the “option” key and put whatever letter you want under the ´ so it looks like this: é
Alex
I admire your courage and share your thoughts.
Of course, classifications in Pauillac and St Emilion are different. The better Pauillacs are 1st growth then2nd growth… not classified, so the amateur has a(n imperfect) classification. The imperfection is linked to having set in stone the classification in 1855 (except Mouton Rothschild) having not taken change into account (climate, practices and properties limits having moved)
Saint Emilion has a far less clear classification and it does not help that “businessics” (I don’t like to use the term “politics” in this instance) have led controversial wines like Angelus and Pavie to be ranked at the highest level. This certainly decredibilises the whole system and will cause immense prejudice to other top St Emilions as many people clearly dislike Angelus and Pavie.
I’ve seen a few references in this thread that “many people” do not like Angelus. Who are these people? Is it about personality or the wine? I get that Pavie is quite polarizing, but I hadn’t realized Angelus was as well.
Pavie is the poster child for modern Bordeaux pushed to the limits: extracted, oaky, and alcoholic. Many people (not all, it’s true , feel that modern Pavie does not have the elegance of fine Bordeaux.
Angélus is going on that way, but is more toned down. It nevertheless has over 15% alc./vol. in some vintages. It’s big and brawny and vinous but, once again, lacks the subtletly many Bordeaux lovers seek.
Of course, not everyone will agree with my appraisal, and that’s fine by me.
Many? Hardly… Hence the high prices the wine brings in the open market, which is the only true classification.
Angélus is going on that way, but is more toned down. It nevertheless has over 15% alc./vol. in some vintages. It’s big and brawny and vinous but, once again, lacks the subtletly many Bordeaux lovers seek.
Nonsense. You might not like the wine. Fine. I do not like they will lose sleep or money. But the wine is the sole of elegance.
In response to your previous questions…
By carving the nature of his temporary classification in stone on the front of the cellar, Perse is proclaiming to the world that he has reached the uppermost echelon, and that this will not change. Whereas that is horseshit. It makes a mockery of the whole classification.
It is not going to change until at least 2022. That is a fact and it his right to do so. He earned it. They should announce it. Of course, you could have let them know they should have consulted you first. Is it OK with you that Mouton is now a First Growth? Or do you have issues with that too?
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