Roughing it with Rougeard: A last meal of sorts

With Hurricane Matthew bearing down on us, curfew called, my wife and I settled down to a very casual dinner in our breakfast room, watching the Governor’s very serious press conference. Grilled filet seemed apropos. She has her Bedrock field blend, I have my beloved Loire Cab Franc. Not any old Cab Franc, but a 2010 Clos Rougeard les Clos, Saumur Champigny. With power outage certain, one must consume perishable goods…

Popped and poured on a whim, no decant. I would recommend that decant. The nose started off quite
muted and really did not express itself until an hour or so later when I was in glass three. Third glass revealed some ashiness, green tobacco leaf, florals. The palate was outstanding from the get-go. Such amazing purity of fruit, so transparent. A well-delineated array of red fruits from crunchy cranberries, dried strawberries and spicy red raspberries. The fruit is ridiculously juicy, lifted and kept fresh by crisp acidity. Weight is medium-bodied. Streak of minerality and fine, grainy tannins on the close.

If this is what the base domaine shows in 2010, I’m psyched to be sitting on the Les Poyeaux and Le Bourg.

Always an impressive Loire Cab Franc. Rougeard, like Chateau d’Yquem, is in a class of its own.

(93 pts.)

You should be psyched! You do realize, though that wines don’t improve after they are opened more than a few minutes. You’re obviously suffering from hurricane-induced stress if you think the wine was actually better an hour or so later neener

Stay dry my friend…

Alfert bringing the strong onion ring game.

Haha yeah I couldn’t stop staring at those onion rings… oh yeah and that wine

Ah man, should have had the balsamic ketchup in the pic! Killer with the rings and potatoes.

Did the cook prepare that fillet? Cannot imagine you standing in front of a flame to get the grill marks just so. The smoke might get into the fabric of your purple Hugo Boss suit.

Oh, and nice note.

I am the Sommelier, Corey. A civilized evening requires this talent. I cannot be expected to dirty myself before a grill, as well.

Be safe counselor.

You da man

You’re a lucky man, Robert. My wife refuses to let me have a third glass.

I always take note of anything written about Rougeard…just wish I could find up here.

Be safe Robert. Hope it turns east and you guys get through it unscathed.

With the Campagnolo corkscrew too… quite the still life.

It’s a wonderful screw!

Tullio would roll over in his grave if he knew I put SRAM on my Pinarello . . . .

But he would enjoy this wine.

And speaking of still life, I just noticed my timesheet from today - I’m still old school - is in the pic. Completes the image, one might say.

Stay safe Robert. Good that you and your SO drink wines of choice!

I only had the Poyeux from 2010, it was earlier this year, wayyy too young. Do not touch for 5+ years. Unless you like them young, of course.

Alain

I had the 2005 Les P not too long ago, I would say it still needs 5 years as well. I will not touch my 2010s for another 7-10 years. I will likely pop the 2011s before them.

I’ve been thinking for a while that these Rougeard wines have become stupidly over-priced. The basic domaine is 2-3x more than top Loire producers, like Baudry, Joguet, Roche Neuves, Raffault, etc. On the grey market, bottles can run $200-$300+ for the Les Poyeaux and Le Bourg. But as good as these other producers are - and they really are damn good - there is a difference. Not just a qualitative difference, but more notably a difference in texture and refinement. These Rougeards seem to have a layer of elegance, finesse, transparency and layering of details that I typically only find in Franc de Pieds, like a Plouzeau from a killer year. The Les Poyeaux and Le Bourg are then a whole 'nother level. So yes, they are stupidly priced, but also stupidly good, so I will stupidly continue buying. I can tolerate a few vices among this wine vice.

I must admit when I saw the thread title concerning a “last meal” with Clos Rougeard my first thought was that it was going to be a last meal as you bow out because of the crazy pricing. I thought I had until recently (when I succumbed and bought some 2011 Poyeaux). The 2010s are great though, across the range, tasted them all at the domaine with Nady a year or two ago.

Agree with your comments on the qualitative differences between Clos Rougeard and other Saumur domaines. When it comes to the cult domaines on the Loire, I have about a 50% agreement rate with the cult followers. Some are worthy, others I think are hugely over-rated. When it comes to Clos Rougeard, these wines are definitely worthy!

Interesting comments, Chris! Curious what you consider the “cult” Loire cab franc producers. Also curious on your thoughts on the new cuvées by Germain, Les Memoires and Clos de l’Echelier. Both of these are or are blended with Franc de Pied vines, I believe, and have old vines up to 112 years of age. Not sure of exact composition. I have purchased several vintages, despite the cost, out of curiosity, but have not tried them yet. I am quite enamored with the youthful Franc de Oied bottling, which is quite delicious but at $45-$50 USD, also not cheap. Giving this developing producer a serious benefit of the doubt.