DAVID WHITE LEAD CHAMPAGNE DINNER - Ripple Restaurant in DC (10/18/2016)
David White recently published a book on Champagne, “But First, Champagne”. He had a book signing event in DC and also organized a five course Champagne dinner. David talked about the history of Champagne especially focused on grower Champagne which was fascinating. Chef Marjorie Meek-Bradley made a family style fry chicken which was excellent and also smoky kale dish was too die for.
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2011 Marc Hébrart Champagne Spécial Club 1er Cru - France, Champagne
Medium expressive nose displaying sweet yellow fruit, a hint of almond paste and mineral. Medium weight, soft and warm, a hint of sweetness and slightly bitter finish. Very neutral, i.e. not unique but clean and correct. (90 pts.)
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2010 Olivier Horiot Rosé des Riceys En Valingrain - France, Champagne, Rosé des Riceys
Slightly spice/stem Pinot nose, dark fruit driven, fresh blackberries, a hint baking spices and mineral. Medium concentration, rather cool and mineral, good acidity and a slightly dry finish. This reminds me a bit of German Pinot minus alcohol in that the expression is relatively straightforward but pure, clean and interesting. Naturally it also reminds me Bollinger coteaux champenois. (90 pts.)
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NV Pierre Gimonnet & Fils Champagne Cuvée Cuis 1er Cru Brut Blanc de Blancs - France, Champagne
Very cool and fresh nose displaying fresh granny smith, fresh squeezed lemonade, a hint of ginger. It is very refreshing like a perfect glass of gin and tonic. Medium concentration, very crisp, clean and cool, a lot of not so fine bubbles, good acidity and a medium finish. Not terribly complex but really refreshing. (91 pts.) -
NV Pierre Péters Champagne Blanc de Blancs Brut Cuvée de Réserve - France, Champagne
Interesting to taste next to the Gimonnet. This is deeper, riper and richer, lemon curd, yeast, brown butter and sautéed mushroom. Once again, medium concentration, ripe yellow fruit and yeast drive palate impression, medium acidity and medium finish. This seems to have a bit more weight and richness. (91 pts.)
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NV Bérêche et Fils Chardonnay Champagne Les Beaux Regards - France, Champagne
Per David, this gets aged with cork for exchange of air which the producer believes to add richness. So far my COTN. Very subtle and refine nose displaying a hint of delicate red fruits, also baked apple, fresh apple sauce with a hint of cinnamon and white flowers. Medium concentration, subtle but polished palate, much finer mousse compare to the flight before and an elegant long finish. Really enjoyable. (92 pts.) -
NV Georges Laval Champagne Rosé Cumières - France, Champagne
This reminds a delicious Pinot juice that I had twenty years ago at a SF gourmet diner whose name escapes me. Straightforward but delicious nose displaying essence of Pinot, fresh raspberry and cherry. Very correct palate with just right amount of bubble, acidity and mineral. Not the most complex but incredibly delicious. (93 pts.)
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2008 Gaston Chiquet Champagne Special Club Brut - France, Champagne
Complex nose displaying golden delicious, lemon, marzipan and brioche. Medium concentration, the finest mousse of the night, good freshness as well as richness, good acidity and a long rich finish. Very enjoyable. (93 pts.)
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NV A. Margaine Champagne Demi-Sec 1er Cru - France, Champagne
Clean nose of apple, pear and ice tea with a lot of lemon and honey and almond cookie. Pretty straightforward clean palate with a hint of sweetness. Refreshing and complements the almond pound cake with mascarpone mousse. (91 pts.)
It was a fun and educational evening.
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