TN: Some New Whites & Reds...(long/boring)

We tasted tonight (7/5/17) Some Whites & Lighter Reds:

  1. Charisse Ad’OP: Picpoul de Pinet Blanc (13%; www.TheArtisanCollection.US) Marion & Guillaume/Pomerols
    2015
    : Light gold color; strong appley/Picpoul/pear some stony/mineral/perfumed talc rather simple
    pleasant nose; surprisingly soft apple/pear/watermelon bit off-dry light stony/mineral flavor; med. apple/pear
    off-dry quite soft rather simple finish; rather dull for a PdP w/o the usual stony character and the
    lip-stinging acidity; dull at any price. $13.00 (KK)

  1. Forlorn-Hope Picpoul RorickVnyd/CalaverasCnty (12.62%; 152 cs) 2015: Med.yellow color; very fragrant floral/
    pear/pear blossom/very spicy light stony/mineral bit earthy lovely aromatic nose; fairly tart/tangy very
    strong floral/pear/pear blossom/spicy rather rich/lush/balanced light stony/earthy beautiful flavor; very
    long/lingering floral/pear/pear blossom light earthy/stony fairly tart/rich/lush finish; this is world-class
    Picpoul and better than any I’ve had from France. $30.00

  1. Dirty&Rowdy and Cruse Furmint AlderSpringsVnyd/MendoCnty (14.3%) P&B by Get Yourself a Cast Iron Skillet/
    Petaluma 2015
    : Med.gold color; some peppery/Furmint/floral/fragrant bit apple blossom/mango/orange slight
    fresh sawn pine/lumber yard/herbal light stony/earthy lovely very exotic/fragrant nose; lightly tart very
    strong pineapple/mango/tropical fruits bit graham cracker/fresh pine/herbal very spicy/exotic flavor; very
    long/lingering very strong pineapple/tropical fruits/dried mango/floral light stony finish; huge fruit and
    almost like a R in perfume; a very exotic world-class Furmint. $42.00

  1. EdmundsStJohn Heart of Gold ElDorado WTW (53% Vermentino/47% GrenacheBlanc; 11.5%)
    ThumbnailMoonlight/Fairplay 2015
    : Light yellow color; light appley/pear/perfumed talc light earthy quite
    spicy/honeysuckle/GB fairly fragrant nose; very tart/tangy/lean very appley/spicy/apple pie/spicy/perfumed talc
    light earthy flavor; very long appley/apple pie/earthy/very spicy quite tart/lean slight earthy finish; on the
    leaner/austere side for HoG but not thin/eviscerted; lovely flavor & aromatics but should put on weight w/ age.
    $23.00

4a. Schroeder-Smith Estate Norman C. Schroeder Sr. Memorial (1923-2012; 70% GreyRiesling/20% Muscat/10% GWT)
LosAlamos 2012
: Med.dark gold/burnished bronze color; slight phenolic strange beer-like/cider-like very
orangey/orange muscat/floral some hybridy/Isabella-like/vinyl waste basket rather Labrusca-like strange nose;
soft/underacid slightly sweet (5%?) slight phenolic quite orangey/orange muscat slight tangy/metallic flavor;
very long soft/underacid fairly sweet very Labrusca-like/Isabella-like quite earthy bit beer-like sweet/orangey
finish; quite a strange wine w/ lots of orangey character and resembles mostly an Isabella.


  1. EdmundsStJohn Bone-Jolly GamayNoir ElDoradoCnty (12.6%; BarsottiVnyd) 2014: Fairly light almost rose color;
    very grapey/Gamay/strawberry soda pop/raspberry soda pop bit bubble gum (Fleer’s) light earthy/BoJo-like nose;
    lightly tart/grapey/raspberry soda pop/Gamay/spicy light earthy flavor w/ light tannins; long grapey/Gamay/
    raspberry soda pop bit earthy finish w/ light tannins; more interesting & more BoJo-like & less bright fruit
    than the '15; quite nice-drinking Gamay. $24.00

  1. EdmundsStJohn Bone-Jolly GamayNoir ElDoradoCnty (13.5%) 2015: Med.light color; very strong fragrant ruhbarb/
    strawberry/strawberry soda pop/Gamay light earthy slight bubble gum (Bazooka) very attractive nose; lightly
    tart bit richer/lusher more grapey/strawberry/Gamay slight earthy flavor w/ light tannins; long very grapey/
    strawberry soda pop/Gamay lightly tart finish w/ light tannins; a very pretty Bojo-like Gamay; distinctly
    younger and more strawberry soda poppy/fruity, $23.00

  1. Arnot-Roberts GamayNoir ElDorado (12.5%) 2016: Med.light color; rather earthy/herbal/BoJo-GC-like light
    Gamay/strawberry light fruit rustic nose; quite tart/lean/austere fairly herbal/earthy light Gamay/fruity/
    strawberry flavor w/ light bitey/crunchy tannins; med.long quite tart/lean/austrer bit eviscerated some
    herbal/earthy slight Gamay/strawberry finish w/ light hard tannins; a bit painful to drink; rather strange
    Gamay but somewhat interesting and may develop into something good but it’s a gamble. $30.00

  1. EdmundsStJohn Rocks&Gravel UntiVnyd/DryCreekVlly/SonomaCnty (47% Mourv/39% Grenache/14% Syrah; 13.2%) 2015:
    Med.light color; light plummy/Mourv bit strawberry/Grenache some earthy/dusty somewhat fragrant/simple nose;
    lightly tart light plummy/Mourv/strawberry/Grenache lightly earthy/dusty simple balanced flavor w/ light smooth
    tannins; med.long fruity/plummy/Mourv/Grenache/strawberry light earthy simple finish w/ light gentle tannins;
    a very balanced simple/pleasant GSM blend that should develop really well. $29.00

  1. BrocCllrs Mission Lodi (13.3%; www.BrocCellars.com) Berkeley 2016: Very light garnet red color; very fragrant/
    perfumey lovely spicy/strawberry slight earthy/herbal light cranberry very pretty nose; bit soft very perfumey/
    strawberry/cranberry/light some earthy/herbal/mushroomy slight metallic/tangy slightly coarse very pretty flavor
    w/ very light tannins; med.longlight/strawberry/cranberry/fruity slight earthy/dusty/herbal somewhat coarse
    finish w/ very light tannins; quite a pretty perfumed expression of a light-weight red; good summertime
    drinking when you want something a notch above a rose. $26.00 (WoP)

  1. Hendry Mission HendryVnyd/NapaVlly (14.2%; Grafted in 2012; 300 btls; Aged: 11 mo. in neutral Fr.oak;
    www.HendryWines.com) 2014
    : Med.light garnet color; some grapey/earthy/strawberry/cherry slight volatile light
    toasty/oak bit more depth nose; soft grapey/earthy/strawberry/cherry light toasty/oak bit coarse/clunky flavor
    w/ very light delicate tannins; med.long soft grapey/earthy/light strawberry light toasty/oak finish w/ light
    tannins; a bit on the coarse/clunky side but shows a more serious side of Mission. $28.00 (BB)

  1. Harrington Mission SomersVnyd/MokelumneRiver/Lodi (13.2%; OldVine/Carbonic) 2016: Rather light garnet color
    somewhat cloudy; strong strawberry/C-M/grapey bit bannana oil slight earthy nose; rather tart strong C-M/
    bannana oil/grapey strawberry/BoJo slightly sour bit earthy/dusty flavor w/ light soft tannins; med.long strong
    C-M/grapey rather strawberry bit earthy/dusty finish w/ very light soft tannins; speaks strongly of C-M. $25.00

  1. Harrington Mission SomersVnyd/Lodi (13.4%) 2015: Light garnet red clear color; rather grapey/strawberry more
    serious/winey bit earthy/dusty fairly fragrant nose; lightly tart fairly earthy/Lodi/mushroomy/dusty strong
    strawberry/cherry/grapey bit spicy flavor w/ light tannins; very long strong cherry/strawberry/grapey some
    earthy/Lodi/dusty slightly tart finish w/ light tannins; quite a pretty red and a more serious expression of
    Mission. $25.00

More fake stuff from TheBloodyPulpit:

  1. Schroeder-Smith: This was a Ho-Made wine by a member in my wine group. It was made as a freezer ice wine.
    The grapes were harvested at a nominal 23%-24% sugar, pressed, and the juice frozen. As the juice thawed,
    the water was drawn off. No idea of the must weight at ferment, nor the RS.

  1. Picpoul: Grape from southern France. The name, “lip-stinger”, comes from its usual high acidity. My Gold
    Standard for Calif Picpoul has always been TablasCreek. This new F-H may be even better.

  1. Furmint: This wine is a cooperative effort between HardyWallace/D&R and MichaelCruse in Petaluma. I was
    mightly impressed by the Furmint, the best (dry) Furmint I’ve ever tasted. When I visit HeidiSchrock in
    Rust next year, I’m taking a btl of this for her.
    There’s precious little Furmint grown in Calif. The only other one is LimerickLane. It, also, is quite
    good w/ some age on it, but this D&R takes Furmint to a whole nuther level.
    The AlderSpringsVnyd, way up in the Northern reaches of MendoCnty, is a very interesting vnyd. StuBewley
    is growing some very interesting varieties up there. I don’t know if the climatic conditions favor botrytis
    and a LateHrvst/botrytis Furmint can be made there or not. (www.AlderSpringsVineyard.com)

  1. HoG: This is probably the lowest-alcohol/leanest HoG that Steve has made. Usually it’s much richer/lush and
    speaks strongly of honeysuckle/GB. Yet the wine doesn’t seem thin & eviscerated and has plenty of flavor.
    Just needs more time in the btl.

  1. R&G: Steve’s HoG has always been a bit of a puzzle to me. I taste them right at release and always shrug
    my shoulders at how quotidian the wine is; pleasant enough but not very interesting. Yet R&G has this uncanny
    ability to, w/ btl age, to rise up and bite you on the a$$ by how good it is. Unvariably. Sometimes you just
    gotta believe Steve knows what he’s doing.
    But believe no more. The Unti’s decided to keep all their grapes for teir own wines and have put an end
    to their long relationship. I believe the partying was amicable.

  1. Mission: This is a grape that has long been dissed for making dry wine in Calif. It was traditionally used
    to make Angelica dessert wine. But there has been interest, over the last few yrs, of making Mission as a
    drinkable/quaffable dry red. Recently, there has been more interest in Calif in making these more quaffable/
    pretty/easy-drinking reds; wines that don’t play well in Monktown. Often w/ Trousseau and Carignan, it looks
    like Mission is muscleing its way to this table.

ine. But there has been interest, over the last few yrs, of making Mission as a
drinkable/quaffable dry red. Recently, there has been more interest in Calif in making these more quaffable/
pretty/easy-drinking reds; wines that don’t play well in Monktown. Often w/ Trousseau and Carignan, it looks
like Mission is muscleing its way to this table.

Tom

And I thought I had a penchant for drinking and bringing unusual stuff to gatherings now and then. Awesome report, Tom!

I’ve had good Picpoul, but nothing revelatory the way you describe the Forlorn-Hope. Definitely stirs my interest. I’ll definitely look to try some of that Furmint when I see Hardy again next year. The little I’ve sampled from Broc Cellars has all been good.

Kwa Heri,

Mike

Thanks, Tom!

I’m glad you dug the Furmint. I hadn’t popped one since our release party. Cruse and I poured it this week at a dinner in SF and we were both very happy with it. [If anyone is on Cruse’s list, he still has a little avail. if you email him.]

Michael- I’m happy to pop one for you next year. I think this is right up your alley.

I do like dry Furmint, would love to try it with you, Hardy. Next fall—dates to be determined.

BTW, booking for visit to Atlanta weekend of August 18, will say hello to the gang for you?

I still miss your Kodak days and the frequent visit to Toronto those entailed.

Mike

Thanks for the notes, Tom!!

I especially appreciate your differentiating between the bubble gum brands that the “Bone Jolly” flavors evoked. :wink:

Do you know if both vintages of the Harrington Mission were made via Carbonic Maceration?

Drew, both vintages were 50% carbonic and 50% foot-stomped whole-cluster.

Thanks, Ken!!

I am still holding onto hope for a bottle of your Angelica. :wink:

Thanks, Ken!

I am still holding onto hope for a bottle of your Angelica. :wink:

Tom, have you ever had the picpoul blanc from Tanjuli in Zillah, WA? I recently tried it and I enjoyed it and wondered how it compares to other picpoul blancs.

I just had the 2016 Tablas Creek Picpoul this week - absolutely outstanding!!!

This only my second post, so be gentle.

I’ve had pretty much all the Missions produced in CA (as well as quite a few Chilean Pais ones and Listen Prietos). And I’ve yet to find one I didn’t like. Out of the CA ones, I’ve had Broc, Harrington, Sandlands, Hendry (Story Vineyards is the only one I haven’t tried). They’ve all been quite different and it shows that the Mission grape is capable of being made in a lot of different styles, chameleon-like. It can be light, it can be full, depending on the winemaker’s approach. Reminds me of Pinot in that sense. So whoever once wrote into our collective conscience that the Mission grape is “unsuitable for winemaking” must have had some very dubious wine. I’m delighted to say they’re wrong.

But I would say that, wouldn’t I? You see, full disclosure, I’m a winemaker that took more Mission than anyone else in CA last year! That’s how committed I am to the grape and how much I believe in it. It’s a great grape. It will be my embryonic winery’s signature grape when it releases on 2020. Yes, I do have sleepless nights about trying to sell it all, but I’m hoping there will be enough people curious about the grape to give it a try. If not, I’ll be over in the corner in a fetal position, sobbing convulsively. newhere

Thanks for chiming in, Adam. A wnry that specializes in Mission?? Wow…that’s pretty gutsy.
But I agree w/ your comments. The reason for that characterizatin is that Mission grapes tend to be low in acidity and are often used for table grapes.
But Mission can make perfectly pleasant wines. Maybe not rise to the level of greatness…but sometimes you just want something to drink that
simply tastes good. Of the ones you mention, Harrington is my easy favorite. I’ve had the Story and it’s decent…but just that.
I assume your Mission grapes come from old vnyds? I can’t imagine any new plantings of Mission in Calif.
Angelica is, of course, the traditional wine for Mission. Don’t suppose you make one of those?? And the Harbor Mission del Sol dessert wine is/was quite good.
Darrell Corti still has several vintages of those.
I would like to see a Ramato made out of Mission. That would be an interesting wine.
Hope you’ll come around here to WB more often in the future, Adam. Lots of great/knowledgeable folks here. And then a few
of us old curmudgeons who just blabber away nonsense.
Tom

Nice to see some normal wines listed for a change instead of the usual weird crap you drink! [snort.gif]

Matt’s picpoul is great stuff. Glad to see his own vineyard of it lives up to the earlier source he had for it (forgot where is was…Napa maybe?).

Thanks Tom! Happy to be here and have already seen that there’s a lot of knowledge and a lot to learn here!

No, no Angelica for me. I’ve actually never tried an Angelica, but would love to one day. I’ll take a recommend on a good bottle?

Yes, the Mission grapes I take are from the same vineyard as Harrington takes his - Somers Vineyard by the Mokelumne river in Lodi. They’re dry farmed old vines, head “trimmed”. I use the word trimmed in the loosest way possible.:wink: Not sure how long they’ve been there, but a long time. They look to be at least 40 years old or more. Frankly, they’re kind of a mess and I was worried the vigorous fruit production was going to reduce quality, but so far, so good. My style for this wine is very different than Harringtons - I’ve gone for an extended maceration, full extraction Mission. A month on skins. Tasting amazing and very structured yet smooth. Deep color (not normally a Mission trait). Age worthy? Why not. Next year I’ll do two styles - one lighter one as well just to show the other spectrum.

Speaking of Mission. I’ve had Chilean producer Viña González Bastias (Matorral) Pais as well as that producers amphora version (Tinaja) - both are excellent. The former, Mattoral, is a very peppery, medium to full bodied wine that would dispel any notion that Mission can’t produce “serious” wines. Even Envinante’s Benje Listan Prieto is excellent. They can’t all be flukes. I think Mission will be re-evaluated over the next 10 years. It’s already a cult thing in the natural wine world with producers like Bichi and Louis-Antoine Luyt selling out all they can make. If I’m wrong - I’ll be sitting on a lot of unwanted Mission! [cry.gif]

Thanks for getting back on this, Adam.
As for Angelicas…there used to be a lot of old ones around. EastSideWnry in Lodi had some very old stocks of Angelicas. Dating back to the
late 1800’s. Heitz used to btl one from them. Amazingly complex wines a bit like old Madeira. Alas, those stocks are gone. SutterHome (back when SutterHome made
good wines) used to make a TripleCream Apertif based on that EastSide stuff that was flavored and amazing stuff.
Of current Angelicas, the GypsyCanyon outside Lompoc is probably about the best around. Deborah discovered a very old block of Mission buried in the
underbrush on her horse ranch, probably planted by the original padres who came to the area, revived the vnyd, and now makes an Angelica that comes in a hand-blown
Mexican glass 500 ml btl. Quite expensive, though.
You might want to order some of the Harbor Mission del Sols from CortiBros. Grapes are ancient Mission from the Deaver Vnyd. And LeeSobon/ShenandoahVnyds
has made some dessert Mission from ChetEschen’s (now the Rinaldi vnyd) ancient Mission vines. There are other scatterd patches of Mission up in AmadorCnty.
And I would guess there’s still some old-vine Mission down in the Cucamonga area. All great old-vine stuff available to anyone crazy enough to be interested
in making a Mission wine.
SanMartinWnry used to sell an old-vine old Angelica labeles as “Montenico”. There still may be some of this around.

That pretty much exhausts my knowledge of Mission wines.
Tom

Tom

#FleerBubbleGum

Mission should be planted up and down the coasts of California! neener

We made Angelica at Harrington in 2015 and 2017 (the 2015 is not vintage-dated though). Unlike most Angelicas, these were only in barrel for about 18 months and never topped or otherwise touched while in barrel. They remind me of Tawny Port, but sweeter since the fortification takes place just as the fermentation is beginning, which is traditional for Angelica.

A photo below at Somers Vineyard from 2015 - Bryan Harrington standing next to some of the tallest Mission vines there. As Adam noted, we don’t know how old the vines are but we figure they’re probably pretty old since it’s not likely that anyone would have been planting Mission vines anytime recently (at least until the recent minor resurgence in interest - I believe that Skinner in El Dorado County planted some not too long ago).


Worth checking out are the Angelicas from Deaver and Miraflores in the Sierra Foothills, both made by Marco Cappelli, who is among the very top winemakers for sweet wines in California. Both sourced from Deaver’s old Mission vines, which may date back as far as 1853-54. I visited Ken Deaver in late May and posted some notes and photos on the board: Sierra Foothills Wine Visits, May 2019 – Deaver Vineyards and Sumu Kaw Vineyard: old vines and mystery vines

Is there any left?

I know, they’re crazy big those Missions! When I look at the size of the trunks, they somehow look older than the supposedly 70’s planting. But maybe they just grew strong there so close to the river. The one problem I had last year was a low YAN number, meaning there wasn’t much nutrients in the soil towards the end of the harvest. Probably because they’re so vigorous. Could also be a lack of fertilization in soil.

You winemake at Harrington, right? I’ve emailed a bit with him and told him how much I love the wines you guys are making. Just had the Corvina the other night. Very nice.

Thanks for tips! I think I might have talked to Deborah during my early hunt for Mission grapes. It took a long time to find anyone who had it or were selling it.