Chateau Les Carmes Haut Brion has always been a favorite of this Chinon-lover. It is, after all, rather atypical for a Bordeaux, and particularly a left-bank wine from Pessac-Leognan. It is atypical in the sense that it’s predominant grape in many years is Cabernet Franc. Sometimes it flips with merlot, but historically has always shown that tart red berry profile of Cabernet Franc, infused with a bit of funk and tobacco. A very unique Pessac.
The Chateau is in a state of change now. It was acquired by a modernizer sometime after 2010, and major renovations and changes have and are being made. According to Leve, the goal is to achieve 50% Cab Franc in the vineyards, but the concerning part for me at least, has been the introduction of very modern consultants, with Derenoncourt involved in 2011 and perhaps later.
Not surprisingly, critics have been swooning, points have been racing out of the bottle, with the 2012, 2014, 2015 and 2016 vintages garnering some of the highest points that I have ever seen from this Chateau. Which of course, does not mean better, but it could mean, different. I loved this estate when it was not getting the acclaim. But naturally, I am curious, so I did buy 2012, 2014 and 2016 futures. Even with the crazy points, it is a very affordable Chateau, with the 2014 easily found for $50.
I had the 2012 a couple of weeks ago. I have to admit, it was a major crowd pleaser. It was at a party, so many wines were being poured, and wines were not the focus, so my attention to it was limited. Needless to say, I came away thinking that I would not be buying any more of this vintage. I found the wine rather extracted, more dark berry character than in the past, and a heavy presence of new oak notes of vanilla and even coconut. It was glossy, approachable, and again, a crowd hit.
So it was with some trepidation that I popped the 2014 tonight to check in.
This wine is not the 2012. It’s not the 2010 more classic version either, but thus far it is working. The wine has a tension, perhaps a conflict going on, between its past and its present. There is a darker, more weighted presence about this wine, for sure. A richer perfume. A silkier presence. And yes, some showing of new oak. But it also has a fresh, red-fruit profile, decent acid, and a coarseness to the tannins that is rather old school. The tannins have enough sweetness to it, however, to make this chewy wine actually enjoyable right now. This is not your father’s Oldsmobile, think of it as a new incarnation with fine Corinthian leather and a racy fuel-injector. I cannot prognosticate how this develops, but I will admit to liking what I see here. Not a Bordeaux that I want all the time, but not fully embracing the dark side either.
Back to my title, who the heck made this wine?
Leve’s website says Derenoncourt was brought in back in 2011. Galloni says that Simon Blanchard is the consulting oenologist. Neal Martin says that Guillaume Pouthier (ex-Chapoutier) is the winemaker. Perhaps they are all involved.
PS. I am surprised to say that I liked this better than the 2014 Cantemerle.
PPS. The new label sucks. I loved the classic, old label.