I’ve been dabbling a bit in Bordeaux and came across the 2010 Château Fonplégade at my local Total Wine. CT reviews looked solid, so I picked up a few bottles. I couldn’t find much on WB about this wine - what’s the style? I noticed that Michel Rolland is the wine consultant - heard his style can be a bit polarizing. Appreciate any info on this, thanks.
Count me in as a fan of Fonplegade. For more info on the chateau Learn about Chateau Fonplegade St. Emilion, Complete Guide
As one would expect from the Rolland consultancy, it is reportedly a more modern-styled St.-Emilion. I own a few bottles (my Bordeaux tastes run the gamut) but have yet to pop one, so am working on hearsay. I’m posting now just to note that K&L Wines currently has mags of the 2014 for $49.99 (per their Insider’s Advantage program, which requires an easy and free sign-up), which is a pretty sharp price if you like the estate and have use for magnums. (I have zero affiliation with K&L, other than being a satisfied customer.)
Thanks gents!
Fonplégade is a very highly regarded terroir. At the centre of the vineyard is one of the fresh water springs, over which a shrine-like stone housing has been built, and th spring water is then channelled through the centre of the vineyard along a stone watercourse. Many modern-day viticulteurs in St Emilion speak of this terroir with a sense of admiration that borders on awe; it is the mid-slope position, the sheltered shell-like depression, and the historical provenance - during the 19th century Château Fonplégade was very highly ranked within the commune. Various editions of Cocks et Féret placed it within the top half-dozen-or-so estates in the region, along with the likes of Château Ausone, Château Bel-Air, Château Beauséjour, Château Canon and Château Troplong-Mondot. You can see the rooftops of Bel-Air (or Belair-Monange as it is now) over the crest at the top of the vineyard.
The work in the vineyard has seen some significant changes since 2004 when it was bought by Stephen and Denise Adams (who also own L’Enclos); recent changes include plantings at a high-density, with 8,500 vines per hectare, and a conversion to organic viticulture, certified by ECOCERT in 2013. The trend towards more traditional ways of working extends to the use of two horses to work the vines. But the winemaking decisions mark the style of wine significantly. They are always dark, sometimes gamey and certainly suggestive of a focus on sur-maturité in the vineyard and extraction in the cellar. I would rate them more highly if there was a greater sense of balance, greater purity and definition in the fruit, and greater freshness on the palate. But that’s just my take on it… If you like the modern style in St Emilion, these wines could be right up your street. I have to say I did ike the 2016 much more than other recent vintages - the naturally cooler, more acid-rich, lower alcohol vintage characteristics coming through, perhaps. I thought the 2010 was a good wine in the modern style, btw.
Thanks Chris, very informative.
Yes thanks for the info. Based upon people involved in this I have picked some up.
Have visited the Chateau. Lots of experimenting going on in the cellar. They have spared no expense in updating the property and resources. Faciltiies reminded me of a high end Napa winery. Enjoyed the wines, but definitely a more modern style.
About 30-35 years ago, I discovered a small cache of 8-10 half-bottles of 1961 Ch. Fonplegade. I had never heard of the estate but certainly knew of the vintage. Turned out to be terrific wine which I quickly finished off within a year. I’ve tasted newer vintages from time to time with positive results.
DoctorJay
Nice details, Chris. Nice to hear about this estate, but hearing its being run by the owners of l’Enclos doesn’t seem like a ringing endorsement. I’ve tried various older l’Enclos over the years and none stuck out as memorable.
Perhaps they are making better wines nowadays though.
Opened a bottle today and really enjoyed. Will seek out '15 and '16 futures.
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2010 Château Fonplégade - France, Bordeaux, Libournais, St. Émilion Grand Cru (9/17/2017)
Cedar, dark fruit, chocolate, coffee. Good long finish. Lots of stuffing and I think many years to go. Some tannins, but worth opening now if you have more than one bottle. Recommend 2+ hour decant. (93 pts.)
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