These were purchased on winebid a few months back for near-term drinking. I’ve got quite a few younger Cadence, so this was as much as anything a study in how these show at over 10-15 years from vintage date. These were not decanted and were enjoyed, side-by-side, over the course of three hours or so. Both corks crumbled…I really need a Durand.
2001 Cadence Ciel du Cheval Vineyard Red Mountain
Tasted along-side a 2005 Cadence Taptiel. Very pretty dark ruby color with no bricking evident. Somewhat restrained nose with scents of red cherry, rose, leather. Very fine tannins on the palate, which frame mature flavors of raspberry coulis, spice, and pie cherry. This was very well-balanced and not in decline, but I don’t know that it will significantly improve from here. Still very well-structured. 91 points
2005 Cadence Tapteil Vineyard Red Mountain
Tasted alongside the 2001 Ciel du Cheval from Cadence. Wow - this sucker is still full of tannin. The fruit, fortunately, is also very prominent. Ample aromas of dark cherry, cocoa powder and baking spice. The palate is full, but still tightly wound, but the beautiful rhubarb-strawberry pie and dark cherry flavors abound. This is great now, but I’d bet those tannins and that acid will carry this wine effortlessly for another 10 years. 93 points
I was very surprised by how structured and un-evolved (relatively speaking) these both were. Like many know, these wines age so well. I would imagine that the fact that provenance is unknown on these speaks to how great they could be if they were purchased winery-direct. I’d love to throw either one of these blind into a lineup of Bordeaux and see how they show. Red fruit, earthy/leather notes, significant structure. This was a fun side-by-side.
WE did a vertical with Ben and Gaye a few months ago back to the beginning (well, back to 98), and to be honest the sweetest spot is 15-20 years. these really are Bordeaux blends.
Great notes Brandon, love to see these. Had a terrific 03 Tapteil last fall, beautifully mature and a wonderful example of Red Mt fruit made be a very skilled hand. My oldest Cadence now is the 07 Bel Canto, but I’m not so sure if it really is going to improve at this point, perhaps so, but I will look to open it in the next 2 years or so.
Based on my experience, I agree with you on the front end of that drinking window. Over time, one of my rules of thumb for the Cadence “big 4” wines is to not even look at them until at least 10 years after vintage ('cept for one bottle that I always open, with long decant, as soon as the new vintage arrives!).
Curious how you guys came to the assessment on the back end (20 yrs) of that window. My experience mostly only goes back to 2002 vintage, but I’ve yet to have a bottle that I thought was at the top of the aging curve yet (and the only ones I’ve had that I thought were on the backside were a couple bottles of 2000 Spring Valley). Were you seeing some signs of decline in their first few vintages (98, 99, 00)?
My other two rules-of-thumb for the Cadence wines:
However long you think they will age, they will age gracefully for at least 5 years longer
Even though most Coda is consumed fairly young, I believe the curve for continued development will be much closer to the “big 4” than most people think
Who knows about the 20 year window, since they’ve only been in existence for 20 years. the only wines showing any signs of being aged were older Spring Valley, which they don’t make anymore. They weren’t over the hill, but were fully mature. Very likely the maturity window extends for quite a while for the other bottlings.
For those who might be interested, Ben and Gaye are hosting a 20 year retrospective at RN74 in Seattle 5/2/18.
Thanks for the replies. I could see them going 20 years, certainly. That '01 is already at 16+ and there was plenty of fruit in there. They really didn’t show a lot of secondary flavors (which, for me, are along the tobacco, earth, leather lines) and the fruit was still pretty up-front.
Brandon - thanks for the notes. I have a 2005 Ciel tentatively on-deck for this weekend… obviously no hurry to drink… but now I’m wondering if I should sit on it a while longer.
And John, is the info public on the 5/02 event? I am on their email list and follow them on facebook… and I hadn’t heard about it. I am interested, depending on the details.
Ryan - Opened my first bottle of 2005 last month - the Klipsun. Despite that vineyard’s reputation for creating tannic beasts, I thought this was drinking fine right now. However, also don’t think it is anywhere near its peak yet - plenty of life ahead. I see no reason why the 2005 Ciel shouldn’t be the same. Good news is you are probably fine drinking now (but I’d probably still consider decanting in advance) or hiding it in the cellar a while longer.
That being said, take my comments with a big grain of salt, because I think almost everyone drinks their Cadence’s WAAAYYY too young…
Understood. Almost all of us are in the same boat on that one. For example, I don’t have anything remaining in my cellar prior to 2003 vintage.
And, really, vintages like the 2005 are drinking just fine now. I’m sure you’ll enjoy it.
Michael
P.S. - That’s why I always try to make an appearance when Ben & Gaye host their open houses. In my experience, they have always been generous in pulling bottles from the library to taste. Great opportunity to get some snapshots on the wines’ evolution, without having to pull a bottle out of your own cellar.
Should be. WE got the info from RN74–says they are pouring 9 wines. I’d just go on the website or contact them. don’t know which ones they are pouring. I can ask as I’ll be at Ben and Gaye’s house on Friday (we’re in the same tasting group).
With regard to the 2005’s, I’ve found them fairly concentrated and a little backward–more so than most of their vintages aside from 2008 which is really backward. Still the 2005’s can be enjoyed now. if I had other vintages, i’d prob save the 2005’s, but if that’s all you have, go for it.
