I believe this was the tenth year of sharing great wines with the Chicago crew. It was started in 2009 when Justin Bonner organized his first SQN blowout charity dinner in DC. Since then there were one or two annual gatherings. I was lucky enough to join the festivity since 2014. This time the DC crew traveled to Chicago.
The dinner was held once again at the privative room of Smyth restaurant. Despite my high expectation, the meal was memorable but having a 12 course tasting menu plus a burger was challenging. A lot of dishes reminded me the style of Michel Troisgros, i.e. Japanese influence and acid driven. The dishes were intense and complex without compromising the purity and clean flavor. It complimented our wines very well. However it was a bit too much of a good thing for some of the guys. It didn’t help that the dessert courses were served past midnight. Nevertheless, a great time was had by all.
FRIED SOURDOUGH WITH “THE FARM” MAPLE & UNI which I had two servings.
SALTED RHUBARB & RADISH WITH SEAWEED & OYSTER
BURNT SALSIFY WITH RAZOR CLAMS & GUINEA HEN JUS
DUNGENESS CRAB & FOIE GRAS WITH SCRAMBLED KANI MISO
DRIED CORN WITH SQUAB LIVER MOUSSE & HICKORY NUT
SQUAB WRAPPED IN SORREL WITH BURNT HONEY & ROSES
SLOW COOKED BEET WITH BEET BLOOD BOLOGNESE & BLACK CURRANT
BURGER
HAY AND SORREL SORBET WITH “THE FARM” HONEY & CONIFER
EGG YOLK SOAKED IN SALTED LICORICE WITH FROZEN YOGURT MERINGUE
Champagne
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1996 Ruinart Champagne Dom Ruinart Blanc de Blancs - France, Champagne
Pure and energetic nose displaying refreshing sweet yellow fruit, lemon curd, lemon peel, apple, pineapple, a hint of mint, sweet spices and wet stone. Very clean and pure palate, very fine mousse, bright acidity, strong mineral presence and a long clean citrus and mineral driven finish. Very clean, energetic and delicious. (94 pts.) -
1996 Dom Perignon Champagne Oenothèque - France, Champagne
Very clean, broad and complex nose displaying sweet yellow fruit, lemon curd, fresh lemon juice, apple, a hint of red currant, brioche, white pepper, cinnamon and wet stone. Very harmonious fully integrated palate, generous decadent yellow fruit, rich yet polished, generous very find mousse, perfect amount of acidity and mineral, and a long clean sweet yellow fruit driven finish. Drinking perfectly. (96 pts.)
Rose Champagne
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1996 Ruinart Champagne Dom Ruinart Brut Rosé - France, Champagne
Per Alan, aka Burgundy Al, 90% chardonnay. Pale salmon color. Very clean and energetic nose displaying subtle sweet red fruit, raspberry soda, strawberry candy, currant, yellow peach, smoke salmon, copper, light caramel and limestone. Very precise and energetic palate, silky and seamless, medium abundant very fine mousse, bright acidity, strong coppery mineral and a long clean finish. In between BdN and Rose. Quite a contrast to the 96 Dom Rose which shows generous delicious red fruit. Showing beautifully. (95 pts.) -
1996 Moët & Chandon Champagne Cuvée Dom Pérignon Rosé - France, Champagne
Very expressive and youthful bottle displaying generous red fruit, strawberry, raspberry, cherry soda, copper, rose, a hint of smoke and limestone. Fully integrated delicious palate, sweet strawberry and raspberry driven palate impression, abundant fine mousse, bright acidity, good mineral presence and a long sweet red fruit driven finish. Significantly more red expression that the 96 Ruinart Rose. Really delicious! (96 pts.)
White Burgundy
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1991 Domaine Michel Niellon Bâtard-Montrachet - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru
Mostly tertiary dominating nose displaying remnant of decadent yellow fruit, orange peel, apple pie, lemon curd, a hint of peach, oyster jus, oyster shell, petrol, toffee, a hint of mint, smoke and a hint of Amontillado. Fully integrated palate, rich but subtle, slightly nutty, yellow fruit, slightly lacking acidity, medium mineral and a medium to long sherry/nutty finish. The fruit has faded. If you don’t mind a hint of oxidative note, this is still enjoyable. Needs to be drunk up as there is not much fruit left. (93 pts.) -
2010 Domaine Marc Morey & Fils Bâtard-Montrachet - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru
Freshest and most elegant wine of the flight. Fresh and pure nose displaying lemon curd, lemon juice, fresh apple juice, candied lemon peel, a hint of onion?, rain water and strong lime stone mineral. Very precise and slightly lean, airy and elegant, bright acidity, strong limestone mineral and a medium to long clean citrus fruit driven finish. I wonder if this was picked before the other two 10s. Good showing. (93 pts.) -
2010 Henri Boillot Bâtard-Montrachet - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru
Rich, slightly coiled and concentrated nose displaying ripe yellow fruit, lemon curd, banana, crushed rose pedals, beeswax, a hint of mint, vanilla/oak and crushed rocks. Excellent concentration, packed ripe citrus fruit, perfect amount of acidity, strong mineral presence and a long sweet citrus fruit driven finish with limestone and vanilla/oak at the end. This seems even fatter but not as precise as the last bottle. Excellent showing. (95 pts.) -
2010 Domaine / Maison Vincent Girardin Bâtard-Montrachet - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru
Medium expressive nose displaying succulent yellow fruit, peach, apple, noticeable oak, crème brulee and sweet spices. Medium concentration, nicely layered ripe yellow fruit, bright acidity, medium mineral and a medium long yellow fruit driven finish with strong oak/vanilla at the end. The most oaky wine of the flight. (92 pts.)
Rousseau
These were served single blind. The first and the last wines showed better concentration and more expressive. The second and third wines were leaner and more black fruit driven. The 07s showed poorly where the 06s shined.
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2006 Domaine Armand Rousseau Père et Fils Ruchottes-Chambertin Clos des Ruchottes - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Ruchottes-Chambertin Grand Cru
Single blind. Expressive nose displaying decadent yet pure red fruit, strawberry jam, a hint of raspberry liqueur, a hint of black cherry, perfume, caramel, tree bark and earthy mineral. Perfectly integrated yet youthful and energetic palate, concentrated sweet red and black fruit, warm and round, good acidity and earthy mineral and a medium to long decadent red fruit driven finish. There is a hint of bitterness. It has reached the youthful peak. My guess is the 06 CSJ. (95 pts.) -
2007 Domaine Armand Rousseau Père et Fils Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Clos St. Jacques - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru
Single blind. The first impression is a hint of oxidized black fruit and green which dissipates with air. Medium expressive nose displaying subtle black fruit, dark spices, floral perfume, caramel and earth. Medium weight, slightly lean and silky, medium acidity and mineral and a medium long black fruit driven finish. My guess is the 07 Ruchottes as it is lean and not terribly complex. I need to try this again soon. (91 pts.) -
2007 Domaine Armand Rousseau Père et Fils Ruchottes-Chambertin Clos des Ruchottes - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Ruchottes-Chambertin Grand Cru
Single blind. Very masculine nose displaying subtle black fruit, blackberry, black cherry, strong cedar, mint and tree bark. Excellent concentration, packed and coiled black fruit, medium acidity and mineral and a medium long black fruit driven finish with mint and cedar at the end. My guess is the 06 Ruchottes. When tried in 2014 and 2013, I really loved it. (92 pts.) -
2006 Domaine Armand Rousseau Père et Fils Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Clos St. Jacques - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru
Beautifully perfumed nose displaying decadent yet pure red and black fruit, strawberry candy, raspberry candy, blackberry, caramel, sesame, grilled meat and earth. Excellent concentration, layers upon layers of blackberry and raspberry, rich, warm and round, perfect amount of acidity and mineral and a long generous red fruit driven finish. My guess is the 07 CSJ. Drinking beautifully. (96 pts.)
Lafite
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1953 Château Lafite Rothschild - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac
Oxidized. NR (flawed) -
1962 Château Lafite Rothschild - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac
Fully mature nose displaying subtle warm red fruit, a hint of eucalyptus, cedar, leather, mushroom and earth. Fully integrated palate, subtle and elegant, medium acidity, fully resolved tannins and a medium long subtle red fruit driven finish. Beautiful old claret. (92 pts.) -
1982 Château Lafite Rothschild - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac
Beautifully balanced classic claret nose displaying blackberry, a hint of crème de cassis, cherry, plum, caramel, lead pencil, cedar, ink and limestone mineral. Excellent concentration, very finely layered cassis and plum, very precise and polished, perfect amount of acidity and mineral, nicely integrated tannins and a long cassis and cedar driven finish with lead pencil at the end. WOTF by all but me who slightly preferred the 86. (98 pts.) -
1986 Château Lafite Rothschild - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac
Explosive nose displaying intense blue and black fruit, concentrated crème de cassis, plum, red currant, ink, licorice, caramel, cedar and lead pencil. Incredible concentration, layers upon layers of intense cassis, unctuous yet silky and weightless, perfect amount of acidity and mineral, and a long intense cassis driven finish with lead pencil and caramel at the end. This is a monumental Lafite, 100 year wine like the 86 Mouton. Some thinks it is tight but I find it open though painfully young. (99 pts.)
1990 Bordeaux
I thought the second wine showed brett hence guessed as Montrose. It was downhill from there.
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1990 Château Montrose - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Estèphe
Youthful slightly lean nose displaying cool black fruit, cassis, blueberry, a hint of red currant, eucalyptus, a hint of green, lead pencil and mineral. Very precise and detailed palate, nicely layered cool blue fruit, silky and polished, nicely integrated tannins and a long cool black fruit driven finish with a hint of green and lead pencil at the end. My guess is Haut Brion.
I am certain that the second wine is Montrose, i.e. thinking brett. (96 pts.)
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1990 Château Haut-Brion - France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan
Medium expressive nose displaying ripe black fruit, red currant, plum, crème de cassis, licorice, noticeable brett, i.e. Jedi mind trick, ripe lead pencil, a hint of green and mineral. Nicely integrated palate, very polished black fruit, silky, medium acidity and mineral, and a medium long finish with a hint of green and lead pencil at the end. My guess is Montrose.
With air, tobacco emerges and the nose becomes generous and more complex. I suspect the brett note was actually green and tobacco. (93 pts.)
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1990 Château Margaux - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Margaux
Expressive very polished nose displaying crème de cassis, a hint of sweet red fruit, caramel, strong mint, lead pencil and limestone. Very precise and sophisticate palate, cool black fruit driven palate impression, slightly lean and polished, perfect amount of acidity and mineral, and a long seamless cool black fruit driven finish with lavender and lead pencil at the end. Based on cool fruit and being slightly lean, my guess is Latour. Considering I have consistently rated it 100pts, shame on me. (98 pts.) -
1990 Château Latour Grand Vin - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac
Exquisite nose displaying perfectly ripe rich black fruit, crème de cassis, Asian medicine, leather, caramel, cedar, lead pencil and earth. Incredibly concentrated yet perfectly balanced palate, layers upon layers of decadent cassis, unctuous and dense yet silky and polished, perfect amount of acidity and mineral, and the endless finish. Incredibly rich and opulent yet perfectly balanced. My guess is Margaux. (99 pts.)
1994 Cult Cab
The first wine was easy to identify. The second and third wines were similar but I thought the third wine was riper hence my guess was Bryant.
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1994 Colgin Cabernet Sauvignon Herb Lamb - USA, California, Napa Valley
Beautiful rich red fruit driven nose, noticeable dill and coconut, caramel, sweet spices and earth. Excellent concentration, layers upon layers of hedonistic red fruit, silky and polished, perfect amount of acidity and mineral and a long intense sweet red fruit driven finish. Dill and coconut notes are very pronounced. My guess is Colgin. (96 pts.) -
1994 Bryant Family Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon - USA, California, Napa Valley
Expressive nose displaying decadent black fruit, crème de cassis, dark spices and lead pencil. Exceptional concentration, good freshness for what it is, silky and polished, good acidity and mineral a long sweet cassis driven finish. Since I figure the first wine is Colgin, I am looking for that is riper and thought this was less ripe than the next wine. My guess is HSS. (95 pts.) -
1994 Shafer Cabernet Sauvignon Hillside Select - USA, California, Napa Valley, Stags Leap District
Intense black fruit, cassis, caramel, lead pencil and cedar. Excellent concentration, packed black fruit, silky, good acidity and mineral, nicely integrated tannins and a long sweet black fruit driven finish. My guess is Bryant. This seems even more ripe than the previous wine. (95 pts.)
SQN and Quintarelli
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2000 Sine Qua Non Syrah In Flagrante - USA, California
Very similar to Imposter McCoy from three night before. Still very youthful expressive nose displaying intense black fruit, blackberry, a hint of cherry, cherry liqueur, ink, smoke, tapenade, dark caramel and sweet spices. Excellent concentration, packed black fruit, warm and round, good acidity and mineral and a long sweet black fruit driven finish. Excellent showing. (95 pts.) -
1983 Giuseppe Quintarelli Recioto della Valpolicella Classico Amandorlato - Italy, Veneto, Valpolicella, Recioto della Valpolicella Classico
Almost port like, very nutty, bright acidity, noticeable heat. (91 pts.)
Sticky
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1986 Château Coutet Cuvée Madame - France, Bordeaux, Sauternais, Barsac
Beautifully mature nose displaying apricot tart, peach cobbler, crème brulee. sweet spices and mineral. Excellent concentration, nicely layered dense yellow fruit, still quite sweet, medium acidity, good mineral presence and a long sweet apricot and peach driven finish. Very dense, concentrated and opulent Sauternes. (95 pts.) -
1975 Château d’Yquem - France, Bordeaux, Sauternais, Sauternes
Slightly corked. Beautiful mineral driven palate. NR (flawed)
The dinner ended around 1 am. Sharing great wines with great friends was simply priceless!
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