A great write up on these classic wines especially from 87-97 IMHO:
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It is always pleasureable to read that the wines made in the barrels you sold are sexy.
But I knew that all along. The barrels take after me.
I am not sure his barrel history of WS is correct. As I recall, Burt used two year air dry because that is all we had. When they started to use three year, I am not sure, but Bob was mostly all three year and now Jeff even plays with four year air dry. But all the barrels were sexy.
I was hoping to at least pull in an insult from somebody
Going for a Right Said Mel song vibe?!
Anton, that would be good too.
I would have responded sooner Mel, but just now saw the post. Love the âsexyâ self stated handle. I would not have thought that, but if you say so.
Good point and one that I will take up with Burt on the 4th when we do our long time standing annual 4th of July shindig at his home here in SB. I`ll let him know of your barrel description.
Too sexy for your staves?
I guess the bunghole is in the rear in this picture. More family friendly that way.
The barrels were also well-toasted.
Adam Lee
Clarice Wine Company
Good one David. So apropos.
You would pick that up Mel. There are other possibilities for that being the case.
Adam,
Are you saying the barrels were well toasted, just like me??
Or, are you pointing out that people shouldnâ t be so afraid of heavy toast and/or toasted heads??
There is so much of what people say they like vs what they actually like in our business.
People say they want three year air dry with a hint of toast, but they actually like a lot of toast.
Loved this essay. Such special wines.
Great article - the sort of thing that keeps my subscription with vinous from lapsing (an especially great week with Valtellina also covered).
From my limited experience i rate the 1987-1997 wines a bit higher than Tanzer did (although he was high on them nonetheless). We agree on the very patchy 1998-2002 period. He seems a touch higher on 2004-2012, and I have not tried any of the Managhas era to weigh in.
Anatomically correct as well.
I definitely agree with you on your vintage span evaluations Clayton. I go back to the early 80s with all of the WS wines and they were great then and still showing beautifully now, especially those from 88 on. Allen is just one of many stars from that 87-97` era. Even the Chardonnays were and still are spectacular.
Iâm a fan of Managhas. While staying at Burt`s Morning Dew Ranch home about 7 years ago, I observed him coming out to the vineyards with the vineyard manager and going over various details about crop management. Burt was quite impressed and stated such.
I still buy the WS Pinots. After 02, the quality has been very good, but not up to Burts standards which were superlative IMHO. I have wines from every vintage, but have not opened any past 2010 and a recent 10`Sonoma Coast was really singing.
Mel et al, I saw Burt yesterday and asked him about this. He agrees with your recall, he used 2 year air dry and that was all that was available then. Margi was present as well and remembers the same.
As an aside, Iâm taking 92` Allen to share with him on the 4th.
Great article, thanks for calling attention to it. I was struck by Tanzerâs statement at the end of the article:
âI have long considered Rochioli Vineyard to be an undisputed grand cru for California Pinot Noir. On that scale, Allen would rate as an exceptionally fine premier cru, on the order of a Chambolle-Musigny Les Amoureuses or Gevrey-Chambertin Clos Saint-Jacques. But thatâs a debate for another day.â
I wonder if he is referring to the âWest Blockâ vineyard specifically or to all the Rochioli vineyards combined?
What other vineyards would you classify as undisputed Grand Cru? I know they donât have the track record yet, but I believe Rhys Skyline and Swan Terrace qualify.
Larry,
Other California âgrand cruâ vineyards??
It could be a list to debate but I would say that at least a 20 year record, maybe even 30, is in order. That would leave me out of most of the discussion as I am rarely sure what year it is now.
If we are just talking about pinot noir, I would include Sanford and Benedict on the list.
What about the various Calera vineyards and Chalone??
Are we throwing Oregon into the story??