4th of July with Burt Williams and family= lots of WS/ Brogan Cellars wines et al

The annual celebration of the 4th of July party at Burt Williams Santa Barbara home is always one of my most looking forward to events of each and every year. This year was the 22nd and was as good and fun as any. The weather cooperated as the fog and low hanging clouds of the past couple of weeks lifted and we were able to clearly experience the magical views of the city, its harbour and the backdrop of the Pacific Ocean. The 30 minute fireworks display located in the harbour started at 9 pm and provided extra thrills with colourful and creative arrangements.

We had a small core group of family and extended family to share the celebrative occasion along with fabulous wines and great homemade food contributed by all.

Some of the wines included:

NV BILLECART-SALMON BRUT RESERVE MAGNUM- consistently pleasing, this bottle exuded the treasures of past ones with bright acidity, concentrated rich citrus notes and a light creamy mousse; more specifically, honeyed green apple, lemon and lime was most prevalent; I noticed a pleasant film coating the palate that enhanced the experience.

2016 BROGAN CELLARS LOCAVORE VINEYARD RANCH RESERVE MENDOCINO COUNTY CHARDONNAY- made and brought by Margi Williams, Burt`s daughter, this full bodied Chard had serious complexity with layers upon layers unfolding; it was delivered in an viscous texture and had nice apple, citrus and pear fruit along with a streak of minerality; lemon oil was the most noticeable component of all.

2012 WOODENHEAD RITCHIE VINEYARD CINDER CONE RUSSIAN RIVER VALLEY PINOT NOIR- unfiltered/ unfined; this was made by Nikolai Stez who worked for Burt Williams for 17 years; it had been opened 2 days prior; this had an abundance of youthful, vibrant red fruit all the way through; fresh and super ripe red cherry was most evident on the nose, palate and aftertaste along with a little hint of toast.

1988 WILLIAMS SELYEM SONOMA COAST PINOT NOIR MAGNUM- 87% of the fruit came from the B.R. Cohn Vineyard; 12.5% abv; Burt comes up from his cellar with the gem and I’m salivating in anticipation as it has been many years since I tasted the last one and that was in a 750; the colour was a cloudy red raspberry with a slight bricking; the nose and taste had wondrous dried red and black raspberry, red cherry and cranberry with cinnamon and spice accents; it had medium weight and body and seemed to improve in the glass with the last sip being the best one of all. I drank a lot of this wine over the day.

1995 WILLIAMS SELYEM ALLEN VINEYARD RUSSIAN RIVER VALLEY PINOT NOIR- 750 ml; 13.7% abv; 2 days prior, Burt and I discussed an article by Stephen Tanzer [now with Vinous/ formerly International Wine Cellar] on WS Allen Pinots from 87-16, so it seemed to be a natural for me to bring an Allen; this release has shined ever so brightly every time I’ve tasted it over the years; in fact, the 95` may be my fav of all of the Burt made Allen Pinots; this bottle had cinnamon, clove and spice laden red raspberry and strawberry in the nose, joined by red cherry on the palate; it had a medium body, soft and smooth mouthfeel and a long, welcomed finish; the hallmark may be its incredible balance.

Interestingly, I rarely think about the age of these wines [until I just did] as they just continue to give and give and exude a still youthful character and demeanour.

2006 BROGAN CELLARS MY FATHERS VINEYARD [= MORNING DEW RANCH] SHULAS POND ANDERSON VALLEY PINOT NOIR MAGNUM- 14% abv; from clone 828; another jewel from Margi that I’ve had previously and loved, this bottle gave up generous amounts of still young and vibrant red and black fruit with black cherry most evident; it`s very rich, full bodied and quite complex; I discovered more pleasure by just taking a sip and allowing it to ease on the palate otherwise, it was too much for my delicate self. The high level of acidity ensures this wine can age gracefully for many years.

2008 BROGAN CELLARS MY FATHERS VINEYARD [= MORNING DEW RANCH] JANS RESERVE ANDERSON VALLEY PINOT NOIR- 750 ml; 13.9% abv; named after Margi`s mother, Jan, this is a fitting tribute to a special woman who passed way too early in life; the vineyard suffered extreme smoke damage from lightning strike fires that inundated the whole area and some of that smoke was evident in this wine; it was appropriately served with ribs fresh off the smoker; aside from the smoke element, nice blackberry and black cherry fruit graced the palate along with some wild cranberry/ cherry.

There were a few more bottles, but having arrived at noon and indulging until after the fireworks ended at 10, I shifted to rehydration and battled with the decision to order an Uber or a Lyft.

This was another fabulous time where close friends celebrated a special occasion together righteously.

Cheers,
Blake
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Great post and pics, thanks!

Right on! re Allen 95

Thanks Barry.

I forgot to mention the fill which is clearly evident in the photo of being almost cork level. In another recent thread, I alluded to Burt`s intentionality to fill all of his wines to the cork which now really helps when buying these wines and noticing the ullage. I’ve yet to find one that was below mid neck and almost all have been high neck.

Thanks Barry. I didn’t know Margi still made wine. I will have to investigate.

Edit: I did some looking after I saw the 2016 note but it looks like she’s retired or at least had no web presence.

I don’t know about her web presence, but she is still making wine albeit in small batches, the 2016 Chard being one of them. Margi has had some health challenges that have taken her out of the big game, but she still has the passion and the energy to make good wine.

I was also fortunate enough to have a '95 WS Allen over the weekend (thanks, Anton). Your comment about the mouthfeel really resonates, which to me was the wine’s crowning achievement. Along with the overall freshness.

John made one of the best wine analogies, ever: he likened the wine to good audio playback - the wine is very high resolution, very fine details. Over-all, musical and well integrated.

We voted on a one word group tasting report: “Fantastic.”

John and Eric have great palates, they pick things out very well and are good at putting words to it.

Good move Anton, opening up a 95 Allen. If I could only find the right words for the wines I review. I find it really tricky to put into words what I'm experiencing on the palate. I need to read more of Johns and Eric`s notes.

Wow, what a special lineup and time! Thanks, Blake! Enjoyed reading.