Wine Spectator Announces Changes in California Wine Reviewer

Big news

Longtime lead California taster James Laube will be transitioning his new-release tastings to Kim Marcus (center) and James Molesworth (right) by the end of the year.

Kim Marcus has been appointed lead taster for the state’s Chardonnays and Pinot Noirs, and senior editor James Molesworth will become lead taster for Cabernet Sauvignon.

I just saw that as well. Thanks for sharing.

I guess those of us who produce varieties other than those three have to settle for the B Team, correct? :slight_smile: :wink:

You are ITB and I’m not , but does it really matter ? They don’t make wine not grow grapes. Those types of changes mean something to me.

It matters to a lot of people. That magazine in those reviewers continue to be influential in the decision-making of many consumers and many in the business. They provide coverage and therefore help keep wines relevant.

It definitely matters and is very big news. I don’t care about points, but prominent critics still matter. This is a big shift. Although the impact will not be huge because I think many wineries (at least the ones I drink) don’t chase points, it’s always interesting to see new palates get to these positions.

Laube discovered Kosta-Browne back in 2004 or thereabouts, much to Parker’s chagrin. :slight_smile: Since then his palate for Pinot Noir has become a mystery to me, his ratings follow no discernible pattern.

Hopefully Kim Marcus will be more reliable, and provide a much needed alternative to Vinous.

At least we can hope that the boilerplate text in every annual article might change.

I enjoy James Molesworth’s coverage of Bordeaux and Rhone. I’m interested in his take on California Cab.

So, they’ve dumped both of their best writers. Doesn’t matter to me, I subscribe to see which restaurant has the “best” wine list.

From my recent readings of the Spectator (hooray for free copies due to airline promotions), neither Laube nor Kramer has had anything new to say in several years. The well had run dry. Time to move on.

Seems they just keep adding to Molesworth’s plate. Is there anything left he doesn’t review? Can’t help but think this seems like cost-cutting to have fewer reviewers cover more regions.

I love James, he seems to have an awesome palate, and he happens to be a really fantastic guy.

The issue I have is that I think WS is really a “wine lifestyle” magazine, and their reviews are so secondary. Shifting out some like Laube (who I think was their critic for a bit too long. His lack of big scores with vintages like 2012 and 2013 made no sense). I think moving James in will cause some of the smart people to at least pay attention, but it may be a move that was made too late. I’m excited to see what comes of James’ reviews though.

One huge plaudit I give the wine spectator is tasting the wines blind. Something I think most of the other publications don’t do, and a huge detriment in my eyes.

I think it’s an interesting move, and makes me want to re-subscribe to WS (online, of course). Molesworth, along with Harvey Steinman, are the two tasters on the WS that I liked and trusted.

Kim is a thoughtful and careful taster, as is Molesworth. But I’m not sure that moving Molseworth to CA makes a lot of sense - he has a lot already. I’ve never met Laube, but he was involved for a long time and he will still be involved. In his case, moving over makes sense - there’s a lot more CA wine today than there was 30 years ago. And they have Tim Fish, who will probably keep rating Zin and may expand his coverage. In addition, they’re bringing up a new generation that will gradually be taking on more.

And as a lifestyle mag, there’s still plenty of room for Laube if he wants it and isn’t really looking at retiring - he knows a lot of people in CA and has written about many of them over the years so maybe that’s what he’ll continue to do.

Yes, it’s clearly a “wine lifestyle” magazine (at least in large part). While they have had coverage of some tougher issues (e.g., wine counterfeiting), they are primarily in the business of promoting wine and the wine industry.

I do wish they would get rid of the Wine Of The Year nonsense, but I suspect they won’t give up that marketing opportunity…

Bruce

'Twas long overdue IMO for Laube to transition. Seemed like he would often underrate producers/vintages that were destined to be really good with some cellaring, then adjust upwards accordingly during retrospective reviews.

I truly wish there was a ‘study’ to show the ‘impact’ of publications and scores from the WS versus other publications with regards to purchasing based on ‘scores or reviews’.

There is no doubt that the WS still has plenty of ‘clout’ and he reaches a very broad group of people - and there is no doubt that their Restaurant Awards (no matter how flawed the system) still is an important vehicle for restaurants to tout, and I see them doing it all of the time.

And there is no doubt that many wineries still continue to submit wines to the WS and tout the scores that they get. Do these equate into greater sales? Always a good question to ask all . . .

As Greg pointed out, Tim Fish certainly has taken on more responsibility and I believe Mary Ann Wrobiec is doing more reviewing as well . . . so they are spreading it around a bit. But they need to have their ‘big guns’ attached to the ‘moneymaker categories’ to give them more clout - or at least that’s what appears to be going on . . .

I’m sure their will be more to come - and I’ll be curious to hear when these two start visiting specific producers and how those meetings go . . .

I’d love to get Adam Lee’s opinion here - he seems to have a pretty close relationship with the WS.

Cheers!

Shelf talkers, both on the shelf and on the Internet, publicize reviews and scores well beyond the audience of people who actually subscribe to WS, WA, W&S, etc. So the clout of a very positive
review from WS extends far beyond the subscriber base. I get wine retail emails several times a day, and the vast majority of the time the email reprints reviews and scores for the wines being sold.
Assuming, of course, that the score is at least 90 or 91 points.

Bruce

Not seeing any emails touting the 70s and low 80s scores William Kelley (TWA) gave to some Washington wines are you? :wink: