With a few ‘16’s arriving and some picked off some local lists, I have been on a PYCM tear over the past couple of months.
2016 Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey Bourgogne-Aligoté: There’s a touch of flint and something lactic but this is a wine of tremendous fruit purity. At its heart is a huge squeeze of lemon. It is direct, linear and the finish is strewn with minerals
2016 Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey Bourgogne Blanc: Some flint on the nose at first. It has very pure peach and spiced pear fruits. There’s excellent depth and precision for its level and plenty of mineral on the finish
2016 Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey Saint-Aubin Le Banc: There’s some restrained exoticism to the wine and it certainly has good flesh and an unctuous mouthfeel. The line of St-Aubin is buried just below the surface and it is a wine that has a huge puff of chalky dry extract to the finish.
2016 Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey Saint-Aubin 1er Cru “Cuvée Marguerite”: Loaded with intense citrus fruit aromas and flavours. There’s some honeysuckle and plenty of mineral too. It has an unctuous feel in the mouth with a rigid spine and fabulous build. The finish is seriously chalky and long.
2016 Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey Saint-Aubin 1er Cru Chatenière: Plenty of struck match reduction. The wine is deep, compact, dense and intense. It has preserved lemon and white peach fruits. It is sappy and direct with loads of dry extract and a finish that drives on long and hard.
2016 Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey Bourgogne Hautes-Côtes de Beaune Creuzilly: Immediately generous and accessible with ripe orchard fruit and preserved lemon aromas and flavours. It has some struck match and a chalky base and is a beautifully crafted wine of good character.
2016 Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey Santenay Vieilles Vignes Ceps Centenaires: Quite reductive at first and the wood is evident. There’s a core of black cherry fruit and plenty of aniseed spice. It is luscious and full of flavour. There’s some floral nuance and a finish that is long.
2015 Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey Saint-Aubin 1er Cru En Remilly: Quite reductive to begin with, showing plenty of smoke and flint. It had powerful and sappy orchard fruits and was generous and full in the mouth. Remilly’s posture meant the wine had certain rigidity and freshness and length was very good.
2014 Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey Chevalier-Montrachet: Blinded by a friend, this was the second bottle in a week and what a wine. It has so much poise and finesse. There’s notes of ripe peach, lemon, flint and smoke. It is intense, direct, layered and linear. There’s richness without heaviness and superb drive. Length goes on and on.
2007 Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Chenevottes: Pours out with a green tinge and is a fresh and vibrant wine of terrific character. There’s a hint of toasty development along with pure white peach and lemon fruits. It has richness but has such great clarity, you feel each rocky bump. Flavours hang in the mouth for a long time well after the wine is swallowed. A superb wine!