I think it was 2 years ago that good friends Randy and Cris Katz and I put our heads together to think about an event, knowing that both Randy and I would be turning 50 this month (and that Cris would turn 50 earlier in the year). The result was a marvelous 2 days (+ next morning) in Atlanta highlighted by an afternoon birth year wine tasting at their house. But first…
I try not to miss a visit with Anthony now when I’m in Atlanta—he’s got a great shop, a great palate and is an easy guy to like and talk to. He opened a 2015 (I think) Chateau de Vaudieu for me which, despite my Grenache aversion, I found to be not bad, with a counterbalancing spiciness to the usual (for me) strawberry-and-herbs profile and it’s in no way jammy or OTT. Perhaps it’s because the vineyards are next to Rayas 
Ahh, but then he opened a 2015 Meo Camuzet Corton Charlemagne . Sniffadeedoodah aromatics which are part pear, part ginger, part almond extract and mostly mystery. A sensational delight dans la bouche, so sleek yet subtle power here too, with requisite freshness and already very sublimely expressive. All you can want in a white burg and in the WOTY discussion for me. Pure magic.
THE BIRTH YEAR WINES
There were about 10 of us assembled and Randy drew generously from his cellar (we all pitched in something of our own as well, I believe).
1968 Produttori de Carema Vino Carema Nebbiolo
For aromatics, I get dried rose petals and shoe leather. On the tongue, still plenty of acid, the fruit is almost all gone now, though, and talks of grapefruit.
1968 Cappellano Troglia Barolo
Soy and sour cherry and chestnut perhaps? Calls are for slightly corked and this is confirmed by 3 of the tasters. Still, only very slight, more body to this than the Carema and still has a measure of small enjoyment to be had.
1968 Ceretto Montefico Barbaresco
Unfortunately also corked
1968 Bersano Barolo Monferrat
Soy characteristics show up in the nuzzie, along with light dusty quality. It’s adequate, with acid and carry to somewhat tired-tasting red fruit, but nothing memorable.
1968 Giacomo Borgogno & Figli Barolo
In the bouquet, I find forthright florals, bits of walnut and still plenty of bright cherry. Still lots of life here—has lost the heavyweight crown but touches on the old-stuff magic with a certain ephemeral texture and good mature red berry fruit. I think this was everyone’s consensus #2
1968 Filli Serio & Battista Borgogno Barolo
A super-rare opportunity to try two branches of this noble family. Very light baking spices around currant fruit. In the mouth, it’s sound and seems correct as an older wine, but not anywhere near the panache of the Giacomo
1968 Marchesi di Barolo Barolo
The last great older Barolo I’ve had was, I think a Marchesi. Certainly this one fits into that category. Lovely, lovely wine full of flowers and red berry fruit wafting up the glass. Same on the palate—balanced and vibrant all at the same time with strawberry, nips of spice and a lovely lithe but measured feel. Excellent example and everyone’s consensus #1
1968 Buonocompagni Ludovisi Fiorano
From the Roma district, this was a generous give by my friend Richard Leland as a tribute bottle in our fantasy baseball league, as he knew this was coming up. While there’s some initial VA which works with potpourri and lingonberry, that lasts for a minute. And then…dommage! Corked. First on the palate and then it reaches the aromatics. Boo.
1968 Beaulieu Vineyards Burgundy
Mike Evans brought this super-rarity, out of Gamay and Mondeuse fruit on the estate. Almost tang (the drink) in red fruit form in the nose. Serviceable dans la bouche, holding on with lightly sweet cranberries. It does lose energy quickly.
1968 Faustino I Rioja
Cocoa, plenty of leather and shoe polish scents. Plenty of alive and drive to taste, some follow-through on the aromatics. Still a somewhat younger-drinking wine. My #3 and some had this as their #2
1968 Sebastiani Cab
Some cocoa and some VA in the bouquet here too. Some almost-stewed fruit as we. Pretty if shallow, the red fruit is still plentiful. I can’t remember if people said this perked up a bit a couple hours later.
1968 Robert Mondavi Napa Cab
Plenty of Napa sniffs, touches of sweet tobacco, and dark chocolate and blackberry. A li’l disjointed when it hits the tongue, but it straightens itself out as a whole and is quite alive, more so than I would have thought. Plum and currant fruit take their place.
1968 D’Oliveiras Boal Madeira
We all knew it was too soon for this and so it proves. Extremely treacle and dates aroma. Knocks you back with how kinetic it still is to taste. Lemon and apple and caramel mix together for now but needs years and years to smooth itself out.
1968 Krohn Colheita Port
Smells of dark chocolate and coffee cake with sourdough bread. Smooth and rich and really lovely . Has the port bite, but quite pure pralines and caramel. My #4 and it was pretty close to the Rioja for me.
This was SOOO much fun to do, and was only the beginning. Separate thread will be up for the incredible evening we had with friends.
