TN: 2018 Villa d’Este Wine Symposium – Kelly, RJ, Justin and Kevin's excellent adventure

2018 VILLA D’ESTE WINE SYMPOSIUM – KELLY, RJ, JUSTIN AND KEVIN’S EXCELLENT ADVENTURE - Villa D’este, Lake Como (11/7/2018-11/11/2018)

This was the monumental tenth edition of the Villa D’Este wine symposium. My family planned a six day vacation to London right before the event. I flew from London to Milan. Unfortunately, I have been under the weather for almost three weeks and I had to avoid most of the “after midnight” debaucheries. Nevertheless, Bacchus was kind to me and my nose and palate were in good shape. I recognized how blessed I am as my friends gave me six or seven different cold medicines. Justin even went to a pharmacy to get me an Italian cough medicine.

The event was beautifully orchestrated once again by Francois and Marite.

Always a magical place!

Courtesy of ZILETTI.

View from my room

Day 1

Zachys dinner at Villa Garovo - 11/7
RJ, Justin and I arrived a day early. Zachys’ team organized a dinner at Villa Garovo. Christy and Jeff invited us. I was not doing well hence no photos were taken. The wines showed really well.

  • 2009 Dom Perignon Champagne - France, Champagne (11/7/2018)
    Based on this particular bottle, the 09 DP seems to gain weight. Expressive nose displaying ripe yellow citrus fruit, lemon curd, also apple, brioche, roasted almond, honeycomb, ginger, smoke and limestone. Excellent concentration, generous fine mousse, nicely layered sweet yellow fruit, rich and creamy, bright acidity, strong mineral and a long sweet yellow fruit and smoke driven finish. Drinking beautifully in a very youthful way. Although I love young DPs, most people find them difficult to appreciate/enjoy. Just like how the opinions have changed favorably for the 02 with age, I am confident that this will also improve in another five to ten years. Very promising. (96 pts.)
  • 2014 Azienda Agricola Valentini Trebbiano d’Abruzzo - Italy, Abruzzi, Trebbiano d’Abruzzo (11/7/2018)
    Justin bought this in the afternoon from a local wine shop. Very pale, almost green. Very fresh mineral driven youthful nose displaying subtle coiled white fruit, grapefruit apple, strong marzipan, a hint of flint, sesame, white pepper and wet stone. Very good concentration, coiled dense white fruit, good acidity, cool and fresh, strong steely mineral and a medium to long coiled white fruit driven finish with sesame and marzipan at the end. The fruit is subtle and almond paste and sesame dominate the expression. According to Chiara Pepe, the 14 was an excellent cool growing season and the wine clearly expresses it. (94 pts.)
  • 2004 Emidio Pepe Trebbiano d’Abruzzo - Italy, Abruzzi, Trebbiano d’Abruzzo (11/7/2018)
    Golden yellow and the nose reflects it. Medium expressive slightly oxidative nose displaying dry yellow fruit, dry apricot, dry orange peel, raisin, white grape juice, a hint of petrol, nutmeg and cooper. Fully integrated palate, subtle dry yellow fruit, good acidity, excellent steely mineral and a medium to long dry yellow fruit driven finish with a hint of sherry at the end. If you are into yellow wine, you will appreciate this more than me. (91 pts.)
  • 2013 Emidio Pepe Trebbiano d’Abruzzo - Italy, Abruzzi, Trebbiano d’Abruzzo (11/7/2018)
    Fresh energetic nose displaying fresh white peach, lemon, jalapeno, perfume, spicy spices and steely mineral. Medium concentration, white peach and jalapeno driven palate impression, cool and energetic, bright acidity, strong steely mineral and a medium to long white peach and jalapeno driven finish. The jalapeno/green/slightly unripe expression is interesting. (93 pts.)
  • 2008 Marquis de Laguiche (Joseph Drouhin) Montrachet - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Montrachet Grand Cru (11/7/2018)
    Intense and rich yet beautifully balanced nose displaying ripe yellow citrus fruit, peach and cream, lemon curd, cremes brulee, lanoline and crushed rock. Excellent concentration, very finely layered opulent concentrated yellow fruit, rich yet pure and precise, bright acidity, strong limestone mineral and a long concentrated yellow fruit and mineral driven finish with a hint of lanoline and honey at the end. This is an excellent Montrachet, i.e. rich and opulent yet pure and precise, that is drinking beautifully. (96 pts.)
  • 2002 Domaine G. Roumier / Christophe Roumier Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Les Amoureuses - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru (11/7/2018)
    Breathtakingly gorgeous nose displaying purest subtle red and black fruit, essence of blackberry, strawberry water, also crushed black cherry, cornucopia of flowers, intoxicating perfume, dark spices, a hint of animal, stem and limestone mineral. Perfectly integrated youthful palate, layers upon layers of elegant pure black fruit, subtle and elegant yet expressive and energetic, bright acidity, very fine mineral and never ending finish. It beautifully expresses the ripe and opulent 02 vintage character and the incredible finesse of Les Amoureuses vineyard. This is like a great symphony, i.e. all parts are in perfect harmony to create something magical. (98 pts.)
  • 2005 Faiveley Chambertin-Clos de Bèze - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambertin-Clos de Bèze Grand Cru (11/7/2018)
    Youthful expressive nose displaying concentrated red and black fruit, blackberry, strawberry and rhubarb tart, coffee, caramel, sweet spices, stem and earth. Excellent concentration, layers upon layers of rich black and red fruit, silky and polished, bright acidity, a hint of tannins and a long opulent red fruit driven finish. It is interesting to compare with the 02 Roumier Amoureuses. This is richer and bigger but not as refined and detailed. It is not showing much sous bois and will need another decade to reach the peak. The tannins, although noticeable, seem to be nicely managed. It is drinking beautifully in a very youthful way. (95 pts.)
  • 2001 Bruno Giacosa Barolo Riserva Le Rocche del Falletto di Serralunga d’Alba - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo (11/7/2018)
    Some controversy but clearly corked. NR (flawed)
  • 2001 Bartolo Mascarello Barolo - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo (11/7/2018)
    Expressive old school nose displaying concentrated slightly dry cherry fruit, caramel, licorice, rare steak, tobacco, cinnamon and iron mineral. Excellent concentration, packed slightly dry sweet cherry, rich and chewy, balsamico, perfect bright acidity and iron mineral, still noticeable slightly rustic tannins and a long intense dry cherry and licorice driven finish with a hint of iron and dark spices at the end. It remains very youthful and drinking nicely. It is a masculine and rustic wine that is slightly lacking finesse. (93 pts.)
  • 1982 Gaja Barbaresco Sorì San Lorenzo - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco (11/7/2018)
    En magnum. Massive nose displaying opulent slightly dry black fruit, strong licorice and caramel, leather, vanilla, tobacco, tar, a hint of mint, dark spices and iron mineral. Incredibly concentrated, layers upon layers of opulent slightly dry black fruit, unctuous, bright acidity, strong iron mineral, still noticeable tannins that are mostly masked by opulent fruit, and a long intense black fruit and licorice driven finish. It is drinking beautifully in a very youthful way but can improve for a couple more decades in magnum format. Adhering to the house style, this is an opulent concentrated and masculine wine that perhaps slightly lacking the finesse. There is a good bit of similarity to the 01 Mascarello. (96 pts.)
  • 1961 Cantina Mascarello Barolo - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo (11/7/2018)
    Showing a bit of travel shock, i.e. cloudy with a hint of medicine. Fully mature nose displaying subtle cherry fruit, also a hint of strawberry jam, caramel, a hint of VA which is not bothersome, soy, leather, cinnamon and subtle iron mineral. There is a hint of medicinal note that prevents it from being pure. Fully integrated palate, subtle sweet red fruit, silky and fluid, bright acidity, iron mineral, fully resolved tannins and a medium to long subtle red fruit and soy driven finish. It is holding up nicely but no need to wait. (93 pts.)
  • 1998 Château Cheval Blanc - France, Bordeaux, Libournais, St. Émilion Grand Cru (11/7/2018)
    Explosive nose displaying perfectly ripe opulent red fruit, strawberry jam, also crème de cassis, caramel, lavender, beautifully perfumed, liquid smoke, cedar and crushed rock. Excellent concentration, layers upon layers of intense yet pure red and black fruit, generous and warm, silky and polished, perfect amount of acidity and mineral, very fine tannins and the finish that never ends. Since the release, the 98 CB always has been very pleasurable without ever shutting down. Although this is drinking magnificently, providing so much youthful pleasure, it can easily improve for a few more decades, perhaps becoming one of the greatest CBs. (99 pts.)
  • 1994 Joseph Phelps Insignia - USA, California, Napa Valley (11/7/2018)
    The color remains opaque and inky. Expressive youthful cult cab noses displaying cremes de cassis, blueberry liqueur, blueberry pie, caramel, licorice, dark spices, incense, tobacco, vanilla, milk chocolate, lavender and earth. Excellent concentration, packed cassis and blueberry, dense and oily but also silky and polished, bright acidity, strong earthy mineral and a long intense cassis and incense driven finish. Although drinking beautifully, it remains very youthful. It you are a fan of cult cab, this is a must. (96 pts.)

Day 2

Lunch at Trattoria del Vapore - 11/8
This is a simple but solid Trattoria. The on-line rating is terrible but it is the most reliable traditional restaurant in Cernobbio. I ordered porcini pasta as usual.

  • 2014 Gaja Langhe Rossj Bass - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Langhe DOC (11/8/2018)
    Clean energetic nose displaying pineapple, pine needle, spicy spices, lanoline and steely mineral. Excellent concentration, cool yet ripe yellow fruit driven palate impression, good acidity and mineral, and a medium to long ripe yellow fruit driven finish. For my palate, this is a well made but unexciting Chardonnay. (92 pts.)
  • 2013 Terre degli Svevi Aglianico del Vulture Taglio del Tralcio Re Manfredi - Italy, Basilicata, Aglianico del Vulture (11/8/2018)
    Medium expressive nose displaying very ripe black fruit, ash, leather, dark spices and scorched earth. Excellent concentration, packed black fruit, rustic, bright acidity, good earthy mineral and a medium long very ripe black fruit driven finish. (89 pts.)

Official BYOB Dinner - 11/8
The wines are coming fast and furious. The 92 Leflaive Chevalier is a monumental wine.

  • 1928 Château Lascombes - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Margaux (11/8/2018)
    It was clear at home but cloudy due to travel shock. Nevertheless, beautiful tertiary dominating nose displaying subtle yet rich and sweet red fruit, red cherry, a hint of strawberry jam, leather, cedar, smoke, tobacco, a hint of VA and earth. Fully integrated palate as expected, subtle sweet red fruit, rich, bright acidity, earthy mineral and a long subtle sweet cherry and cedar driven finish. Really nice showing. (94 pts.)
  • 1998 Château Mouton Rothschild - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac (11/8/2018)
    Expressive nose displaying intense blue and black fruit, cremes des cassis, blueberry jam, ink, lavender, vanilla, cedar and earth. Excellent concentration, layers upon layers of intense cassis, unctuous yet silky and polished, bright acidity, strong earthy mineral, noticeable fine tannins and a long intense black fruit driven finish with cedar and ink at the end. Slightly Napa cab like opulent but decisively Bordeaux in structure. Really impressive showing. (95 pts.)
  • 1999 Joseph Phelps Insignia - USA, California, Napa Valley (11/8/2018)
    Very youthful Napa cab nose displaying blueberry liqueur, crème de cassis, ink, licorice, caramel, dark spices, milk chocolate, a hint of cedar and earth. Very good concentration, packed ripe blue and black fruit, unctuous and thick, warm and round, bright acidity, earthy mineral and a long intense black fruit driven finish. It is drinking nicely but can hold for another two decades or longer as there is plenty of fruit. (94 pts.)
  • 2010 Hillcrest Vineyards Chardonnay Reserve - Australia, Victoria, Port Phillip, Yarra Valley (11/8/2018)
    Served blind. Medium expressive nose displaying shy dry yellow fruit, strong almond paste, roasted almond, burnt sugar and steely mineral. Very good concentration, subtle yellow fruit, bright acidity, steely mineral and a medium long subtle yellow fruit driven finish with strong almond cookie at the end. I am guessing Aussie pinot blanc. After revealing, the overall impression, especially steely mineral and almond paste, reminds me stony hill Chardonnay. (91 pts.)
  • 1995 Château Lafleur - France, Bordeaux, Libournais, Pomerol (11/8/2018)
    Served blind. A bit coiled nose displaying perfectly ripe Cab Franc, blackberry, jalapeno, bitter chocolate, liquid smoke and limestone mineral. Nicely integrated but a bit coiled palate, finely layered pure black fruit, silky and fluid, perfect amount of acidity and mineral, and a medium to long pure but slightly coiled black fruit driven finish. It really opens with an hour of air so a couple of hours of decanting is highly recommended. Drinking nicely in a very youthful way but needs another decade to reach the peak. (95 pts.)
  • 1992 Domaine Leflaive Chevalier-Montrachet - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru (11/8/2018)
    Exquisite nose displaying opulent yellow and white fruit, lemon curd, candied lemon peel, canned pear, a hint of flint, honey, crème brulee, smoke, spearmint and limestone. Perfectly integrated palate, beautifully layered sweet yellow fruit, silky and fluid, lacking acidity yet remains precise due to incredible amount of limestone mineral, and a long seamless finish with honey and spearmint at the end. It remains pure and energetic which is remarkable considering low acidity. Absolute pleasure. (97 pts.)
  • 2007 Domaine Comte Georges de Vogüé Musigny Cuvée Vieilles Vignes - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Musigny Grand Cru (11/8/2018)
    Medium expressive nose displaying very ripe black fruit, blackberry jam, black cherry, caramel, milk chocolate, a hint of stem and earth. Very good concentration, generous but not finely layered black fruit, good acidity and mineral, and a medium to long ripe black fruit driven finish. It lacks the finesse of great Musigny. (93 pts.)
  • 2007 Sine Qua Non Grenache Pictures - USA, California (11/8/2018)
    Massive scale nose displaying intense jammy black fruit, blackberry liqueur, blueberry liqueur, black cherry, ink, cinnamon, nutmeg and iron mineral. Excellent concentration, densely packed jammy black fruit, bright acidity, strong steely mineral, a hint of fine tannins and a long intense jammy black fruit driven finish. It is a bit our of place. Still need another decade to reach the peak. (94 pts.)
  • 2007 Sine Qua Non Syrah Labels - USA, California, Central Coast (11/8/2018)
    Coiled nose displaying crushed blackberry, cremes de cassis, cherry liqueur, licorice, ink, dark spices, black pepper, charred steak and limestone. Excellent concentration, packed intense black fruit, silky and polished, bright acidity, strong mineral, fine tannins and a long intense black fruit and ink driven finish. This seems a bit closed. (94 pts.)
  • 2012 Terroir Al Limit Soc. Lda. Priorat Les Tosses - Spain, Catalunya, Priorat (11/8/2018)
    Expressive nose displaying ripe red and black fruit, dry cherry, blackberry, wild flowers, ash, charred steak, dark spices, garrigue and earth. Very good concentration, nicely layered cherry and black berry, round, warm and slightly chewy, good acidity, strong earthy mineral and a long cherry and blackberry driven finish with scorched earth and dark spices at the end. Apparently 100% Carignan, pretty unique wine. (93 pts.)
  • 1978 Château de Beaucastel Châteauneuf-du-Pape - France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape (11/8/2018)
    Beautiful clear and bright ruby color indicating ideally cellared. Fully mature nose displaying subtle red fruit, strawberry candy, cherry candy, garrigue, a hint of mint, sous bois and earth. Fully integrated palate, nicely layered subtle red fruit, clean, fluid, polished, perfect amount of acidity, strong mineral and a medium to long subtle clean red fruit driven finish with a hint of leather and garrigue at the end. Really well stored example that is drinking beautifully but no need to wait. (94 pts.)
  • 1989 Domaine Armand Rousseau Père et Fils Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Clos St. Jacques - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru (11/8/2018)
    Beautiful fully mature nose displaying candied red fruit, strawberry candy, raspberry soda, caramel, a hint of soy, raw button mushroom, sweet spices, cedar and earth. Fully integrated palate, finely layered shy red fruit, silky and fluid, medium acidity, earthy mineral and a long subtle candied red fruit driven finish with a hint of soy and earth at the end. This is an ideally kept fresh example. Really nice but not a “wow” wine and not worth the current price. Really generous for Dejan to bring it. (94 pts.)

Day 3

Lunch at Da Vittorio - 11/9
I imagine RJ and Justin were the kids who skipped school regularly. We hired a car to take us to Da Vittorio, a three star Michelin restaurant in Bergamo.

Rousseau and Roulot

Truffle Menu.




  • 2012 Domaine Roulot Meursault 1er Cru Les Poruzots - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault 1er Cru (11/9/2018)
    Beautiful Cochesque nose displaying flint, generous ripe yellow fruit with a hint of white fruit, lemon curd, fresh apple juice, pear, spicy spices and strong limestone mineral. Excellent concentration, densely packed sweet yellow fruit, oily without being heavy, good acidity, strong mineral, and a long sweet yellow fruit driven finish with a hint of flint and sweet spices at the end. It is a rich and concentrated wine with very good balance. No need to worry about premox based on this bottle. Drinking beautifully. (95 pts.)
  • 2003 Silvio Carta Vernaccia di Oristano Riserva - Italy, Sardinia, Vernaccia di Oristano (11/9/2018)
    The style reminds me Oloroso. Medium expressive nose displaying subtle dry red fruit, dry apricot, dry currant, dry orang peel, roasted almond and brandy. Quite rich yet completely dry, bright acidity and a medium to long dry orange peel and sweet spices driven finish. Should go well with aged comte. (89 pts.)
  • 2013 Domaine Armand Rousseau Père et Fils Chambertin - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambertin Grand Cru (11/9/2018)
    Beautifully perfumed nose displaying fresh pure black fruit, crushed blackberry, black cherry, dark flowers, cinnamon, cola, stem and limestone. Beautifully balanced palate, finely layered pure black fruit, silky and polish, perfect amount of acidity and mineral, and a long sweet black fruit and sweet spices driven finish. Although very young, intoxicating perfume, generous pure black fruit and very polished palate make the wine already very pleasurable. I suspect this will develop like the 01 or 07 but purer and fresher. (96 pts.)

Dinner at Ristorante Materia - 11/9
This is what happens when I get influenced by the bad boys. Five of us BYOBed a few great bottles. Kelly and I dined here last year and we were truly impressed. The young chef, Davide Caranchini, was trained at a number of Michelin star restaurants in Europe, including Noma. The dishes are brilliant once again! A gentleman who sat at the next table is convinced that RJ is James Suckling. We ended up sharing the bottles with three tables adjacent to us.

Justin, not accustomed to seeing a bird claw, started to mess around with it, taking a few funny pictures. The story goes, Mr. Pigeon came to dinner, drank and smoke with us, but got eaten by us at the end. We all were playing along.

Mr. Pigeonne dining with us.

Mr. Pigeonne smoking with Justin.

  • 1961 Pol Roger Champagne Blanc de Chardonnay - France, Champagne (11/9/2018)
    The cork pops gently. Very vinous nose displaying sweet dry yellow fruit, apricot, dry apricot, peach, toffee, crème brulee, brioche, sweet spices and earth. Fully integrated palate, nicely layered extremely sweet apricot and peach, only remnants of bubbles, bright acidity, good mineral presence and a long sweet yellow fruit and sweet spices driven finish. Very sweet and no sign of oxidation but drinking more like mature white Burgundy. (94 pts.)
  • 2007 Château Rayas Châteauneuf-du-Pape Blanc Réserve - France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape (11/9/2018)
    Very youthful pale color. Medium expressive nose that is dominated by honeycomb/beeswax, also lemon, white peach, honeysuckle, white pepper and limestone. Excellent concentration, subtle white fruit driven palate impression, very little acidity but strong mineral expression helps to maintain balance, and a medium to long clean white fruit driven finish with strong beeswax at the end. It is fascinating that the wine shows good balance as it lacks acidity. I would love to revisit in ten years. (94 pts.)
  • 1978 Moillard Morey St. Denis 1er Cru Monts-Luisants - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Morey St. Denis 1er Cru (11/9/2018)
    It is cloudy after traveling for ten days. Mostly tertiary notes, subtle black fruit, strong sous bois, grilled cep, raw mushroom, black truffle, dark spices and strong earth. Excellent concentration, concentrated black fruit, a bit dusty and murky, good acidity and mineral, and a medium to long subtle black fruit and earth driven finish. It is quite enjoyable but definitely showing travel shock. (93 pts.)
  • 2008 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti Romanée St. Vivant - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Romanée St. Vivant Grand Cru (11/9/2018)
    Another gorgeous and exotic showing. Intoxicating nose displaying pure black fruit with a hint of red, blackberry, black cherry, strawberry candy, coffee, noticeable DRC stem, Chinese medicine, Vosne spice, black truffle, white pepper, a hint of sous bois and strong mineral. Perfectly integrated palate, beautifully layered pure black fruit, excellent energy and precision, bright acidity, strong stemmy mineral and a long pure black fruit and Vosne spice driven finish. This is a very exotic DRC that is drinking magnificently. (98 pts.)
  • 1999 Antinori Solaia Toscana IGT - Italy, Tuscany, Toscana IGT (11/9/2018)
    Expressive nose displaying blackberry jam, cassis, dry cherry, ink, leather, lead pencil, vanilla, rose and earth. Excellent concentration, nicely layered concentrated black fruit, silky, strong acidity which I associate with Tuscan cabs, earthy mineral, nicely integrated tannins and a long cassis driven finish. This is a youthful big scale wine. (94 pts.)
  • 2007 Abreu Howell Mountain - USA, California, Napa Valley, Howell Mountain (11/9/2018)
    Expressive nose displaying very youthful concentrated black and blue fruit, blueberry concentrate, crème de cassis, strong ink, lavender, dark milk chocolate, espresso bean, cedar and earth. Incredible concentration, 10W-40, coiled packed blue and black fruit, bright acidity, strong earthy mineral, tannins are mostly masked by opulent fruit, and a long intense cassis driven finish with lavender and milk chocolate at the end. Excellent cult cab but certainly not for everyone, i.e. for some folks 97+, others undrinkable. Impressive wine. (95 pts.)

Nightcap - 11/9
This was a recent acquisition from NY Christies’s June auction. I had no idea what to expect and this was a truly memorable port, perhaps the best Port of my life. It is believe to be from the mid to late 1800s and was recorked in 1937.




  • NV Unknown Shipper - Mrs Vanderbilt Porto Vintage - Portugal, Douro, Porto (11/9/2018)
    Absolutely no idea what to expect, recorked in 1937 and believe to be from the 1870s or even earlier. Slightly cloudy medium to light caramel color. Incredibly complex nose displaying dry peach, yellow raisin, toffee, light caramel, truffle, iron, garrique, cedar and tobacco. Perfectly balanced palate, beautifully layered subtle sweet yellow fruit, still showing generous sweetness, incredibly detailed, energetic and precise and a seamless never ending finish. No great old wines, just great bottles. This is simply perfect. (100 pts.)

DRC RC vs RSV tasting with M. Aubert de Villaine - 11/10
It is fascinating and educational to follow the evolution of 2009, 1999 and 1990, all very ripe but beautifully balanced vintages that are ten years apart. The 90s are at the youthful peak. The 90 RC is simply one of the best Burgundies of my life, combining purity, energy and harmony. This is a once in a lifetime opportunity to compare RSV vs RC. There is no doubt that the RSVs represent much better value. Some tasters even prefer the RSVs. For my palate, the RSVs are more concentrated and powerful where RCs are subtle, purer and most important significantly more refined and seamless. All the wines, perhaps except the 71 RC, beautifully expressed the vintage, terroir and DRC style.




  • 2008 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Cuvée Duvault-Blochet - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru (11/10/2018)
    Beautiful color of pale red with a hint of orange that I associate with the vintage. Expressive exotic kinky ’08 DRC nose displaying bright candied red fruit, strawberry candy, cherry, candy, a hint of stem, cannabis, Vosne spice, already showing a hint of sous bois, cola and limestone mineral. Beautifully integrated energetic palate, finely layered candied red fruit, silky and lean, bright acidity, strong limestone mineral and a long candied red fruit driven finish with cannabis and stem at the end. It lacks the depth and concentration compare to the other wines but is drinking beautifully. I can easily drink a whole bottle without getting bored. (95 pts.)
  • 2009 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti Romanée St. Vivant - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Romanée St. Vivant Grand Cru (11/10/2018)
    Youthful expressive nose displaying intense black fruit with a hint of red, blackberry, cherry, stewed tomato, roasted berries, grilled celeriac, strong stem, ash and scorched earth. Exceptional concentration, intense concentrated black fruit, rich, round and oily, bright acidity, strong mineral and a long intense black fruit driven finish with stem and grilled celeriac at the end. Not as expressive and enjoyable as the August bottle.
    Starts a bit tight but opens up nicely. It still needs another decade to two to reach the youthful peak. Similar to the 99 but more naturally more youthful. (96 pts.)
  • 2009 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti Romanée-Conti - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Romanée-Conti Grand Cru (11/10/2018)
    Perfectly refined nose displaying subtle pure black fruit, essence of blackberry, black cherry, raspberry candy, a hint of DRC stem, perfume, rose, animal, sweet spices and earthy mineral. Already showing perfect balance and harmony, very finely layered subtle black fruit, very pure, precise and detailed, bright acidity, strong earthy mineral, very fine tannins and a seamless long pure black fruit driven finish with a hint of stem and perfume at the end. It has shed baby fat and not yet reached the youthful peak. However, purity, finesse and balance are unbelievable. (98 pts.)
  • 1999 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti Romanée St. Vivant - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Romanée St. Vivant Grand Cru (11/10/2018)
    Expressive youthful yet complex nose displaying intense opulent black fruit, blackberry, crushed blackberry, black cherry, licorice, tar, a hint of bell pepper/stem, white pepper, grilled fatty steak, perfume, sweet spices, Chinese medicine, Vosne spice and limestone. Unbelievably concentrated yet perfectly harmonious, rich and opulent yet refined and beautifully balanced, perfect amount of acidity and mineral, and a long intense black fruit driven finish with Asian medicine and grilled fat at the end. This is truly a monumental wine. Drinking beautifully in a very youthful way but can easily improve for two more decades. (98 pts.)
  • 1999 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti Romanée-Conti - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Romanée-Conti Grand Cru (11/10/2018)
    Youthful yet incredibly refined and complex nose displaying pure black and red fruit, essence of blackberry, black cherry, a hint of sundried tomato, sap, Vosne spice, subtle perfume, Tieguanyin, Chinese medicine and limestone. Unbelievably concentrated yet deceptively light, incredibly layered pure red and black fruit, perfect harmony and balance, exceptional purity and finesse, perfect amount of acidity and mineral, and a seamless long pure red and black fruit driven finish with perfume and tea at the end. As great as the 99 RSV is, this is even more memorable, like comparing a great Batard to a great Chevalier, i.e. clearly understate and noble, showing so much without being opulent and loud. (99 pts.)
  • 1990 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti Romanée St. Vivant - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Romanée St. Vivant Grand Cru (11/10/2018)
    Luck would have it that the last bottle drunk was at the Domaine in 2017. Exquisite nose at the youthful peak displaying pure red and black fruit, crushed blackberry, candied raspberry, nicely developed sous bois, Vosne spice, a hint of blue cheese, grilled ribeye and limestone. Beautifully integrated youthful palate, very finely layered pure red and black fruit, perfect balance and harmony, perfect amount of acidity and mineral, and a seamless long blackberry driven finish with lovely sous bois and grilled fat at the end. It is drinking beautifully but can improve further, especially you are looking for subtle sweet red fruit and additional tertiary notes. (97 pts.)
  • 1990 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti Romanée-Conti - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Romanée-Conti Grand Cru (11/10/2018)
    The first sniff, it is one of the top five nose of my life. So youthful yet unbelievably complex nose displaying pure red fruit with a hint of black, raspberry, candied raspberry, black cherry, caramel, Vosne spices, a hint of stem, perfume, lavender, espresso bean, Tieguanyin, dark spices and limestone. Exceptional concentration yet airy and weightless, layers upon layers of pure raspberry and black cherry, incredible detail, precision and finesse, perfect amount of acidity and mineral, fully integrated tannins and the never pure raspberry and black cherry driven finish. This is perfect from the first sniff to the last sip. I can smell the emptied glass and the perfection lingers. Perhaps one of the top five wines of my life and it could be the greatest youthful wine. Remarkable harmony, balance and complexity. This alone makes the trip so memorable. (100 pts.)
  • 1980 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti Romanée St. Vivant - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Romanée St. Vivant Grand Cru (11/10/2018)
    The first fully mature example. Exquisite nose displaying sweet candied red fruit, raspberry candy, a hint of delicate stewed tomato, beautiful sous bois, row shiitake, black truffle, smoked meat, light caramel, light soy and mineral. Perfectly integrated refined palate, beautiful subtle candied red fruit in the background, airy yet good intensity, perfect amount of acidity and mineral, no noticeable tannins and a long subtle candied red fruit driven finish with sous bois and soy at the end. It is delicate yet expressive and energetic. Some participants thought the 80 is a weak Burgundy vintage. It is simply wrong as it is perhaps the second best vintage of the 80s. A great example of perfectly mature wine of the domaine. (96 pts.)
  • 1980 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti Romanée-Conti - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Romanée-Conti Grand Cru (11/10/2018)
    Another perfectly mature DRC nose. Beautifully integrated complex nose displaying subtle clean bright red fruit, raspberry water, sous bois, strong spearmint, grilled cep, a hint of truffle, grilled fat, cola and mineral. Perfectly integrated weightless palate, reminiscence of candied red fruit, silky and sensual, perfect amount of acidity and mineral, and a seamless clean candied red fruit driven finish with strong spearmint at the end. For some tasters, this is the wine of the tasting. For my palate, spearmint is a very minor distraction. (97 pts.)
  • 1971 Marey-Monge (Domaine de la Romanée-Conti) Romanée St. Vivant - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Romanée St. Vivant Grand Cru (11/10/2018)
    Remarkably intense and complex nose displaying deeply toned concentrated pure black fruit, lovely sous bois, a hint of soy and black truffle, grilled cep, Vosne spice, Chinese medicine and earth. Perfectly integrated palate, nicely concentrated pure black fruit, remarkably dense yet silky and polished, perfect amount of acidity and mineral, no noticeable tannins and a long concentrated black fruit driven finish with Chinese medicine and soy at the end. It shows more concentrated fruit than the 80s but not as clean and precise. This has reached the secondary peak. If cellared properly, this can easily last a few more decades but will not improve. (95 pts.)
  • 1971 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti Romanée-Conti - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Romanée-Conti Grand Cru (11/10/2018)
    The Domaine was incredibly generous and provided three magnums as they no longer has the fifth. I suspect I got one of the last pours. Quite cloudy and the nose reflects it. A bit dull and oxidative nose. With air, strong white truffle emerges. It is a big scale wine with opulent rich fruit. Oh well! I am still very thankful as all others are showing beautifully. NR (flawed)
  • 2003 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti Montrachet - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Montrachet Grand Cru (11/10/2018)
    Brilliant light lemon color. Expressive nose displaying intense yellow citrus fruit, lemon sorbet, lemon curd, a hint of pineapple, spicy spices, honey and crushed rocks. Beautifully balance palate which is a great pleasant surprise, intense concentrated yellow fruit, incredibly sweet and rich yet fresh and pure, bright acidity, strong mineral and a long intense concentrated yellow citrus fruit driven spicy finish. The big scale, richness and sweetness are a bit Californian yet it is remarkably fresh and balanced. I believe it is at the peak but can easily last for another decade or two. (96 pts.)

Dinner at Trattoria del Vapore - 11/10
I am being bad and hanging out with the bad kids. I am still under the weather and have to leave the hotel at 8 in the morning to catch my flight.

  • 2011 Travaglini Gattinara - Italy, Piedmont, Northern Piedmont, Gattinara (11/10/2018)
    Youthful complex nose displaying bright slightly dry red fruit, dry cherry, cherry liqueur, cinnamon, anise and iron mineral. Nicely integrated palate, nicely layered cherry fruit, silky and polished, perfect amount of acidity and strong iron mineral and a long sweet red fruit and iron driven finish. This is a classic Nebbiolo that will improve for another decade or more. (92 pts.)
  • 2008 Marcassin Chardonnay Marcassin Vineyard - USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast (11/10/2018)
    Nicely balance nose displaying ripe yellow fruit, pineapple dominates, also apple pie, crème brulee, sweet and spicy spices and crushed rocks. Excellent concentration, concentrated ripe oily yellow fruit, dense and deeply toned, medium acidity and strong mineral and a long pineapple and spicy spices driven finish. Very Marcassin so Caveat Emptor. Drinking beautifully, absolutely no reason to wait! (95 pts.)
  • 2009 Schrader Cellars Cabernet Sauvignon CCS Beckstoffer To-Kalon Vineyard - USA, California, Napa Valley, Oakville (11/10/2018)
    Expressive primary nose displaying crème de cassis, blackberry liqueur, ink, licorice, liquid smoke, dark spices, dark caramel and earth. Incredible concentration, intense concentrated crème de cassis driven palate impression, silky and polished, perfect amount of acidity, strong mineral and a long intense cassis driven finish with ink and dark spices at the end. Considering the scale, it is remarkable pure and balanced. Obviously only for those who love cult cabs. (97 pts.)

Nightcap - 11/9
Justin, a passionate brewer, and us stop by at a pub, which had an incredible selection of beer, before returning to Villa D’Este.

Being the good kid that I am, I come down to the gala dinner to share my last bottle, 1947 Jean Bourdy Savagnin Cotes du Jura, and it is a big hit!

  • 1947 Jean Bourdy Savagnin Côtes du Jura - France, Jura, Côtes du Jura (11/10/2018)
    Recently acquired from the NYC Christies June auction where this was offered from the domaine. Still quite energetic vibrant dark yellow. Remarkably energetic and precise nose displaying dry yellow fruit, dry apricot, dry apple, a hint of sherry, almond paste, sweet spices and crushed rocks. Beautifully integrated palate, generous dry sour yellow fruit, good freshness and purity, bright acidity, strong limestone mineral and a seamless long sour yellow fruit driven finish with a hint of sherry at the end. Exceptional showing. (96 pts.)

Despite being under the weather, this was another incredible trip. The DRC tasting was once in a lifetime experience. Sharing so many great wines with Kelly, Justin and RJ made it truly memorable and extra special. My heartfelt gratitude goes to Francois who once again outdid himself! I am truly look forward to the 11th edition next November, once again at magical Villa D’Este!
Posted from CellarTracker

Lucky you, Kevin …

Les Tosses is 100% carignan. Les Maneys is 100% grenache. A tiny production.

Btw, I tasted a venerable Château-Chalon Bourdy 1947 in march 2007. Great wine : 18,5/20
I noted that you had the Côtes du Jura savagnin 1947 and I think that the domain also produced a Côtes du Jura Vin Jaune 1947.
Un vin qui compile (il faut initialement “aller le chercher”) des notes très complexes (les vertus de l’âge), sous la forme d’une corne d’abondance de senteurs typiquement “vin jaune” (qui se dévoilent progressivement à l’air) : pomme granny, citron, gentiane, noix, curry. Comme dans beaucoup d’autres vins de la soirée, on trouve pas mal de notes fumées, qui évoquent ici le whisky Islay (malt, tourbe).
L’expression est jeune, fraîche, fine, la finale un brin saline apportant de belles notes complémentaires de cachou Lajaunie annihilant un peu la relative timidité du vin, qui en revanche possède une expression tactile de haut vol et semble éternel. L’allonge est là mais elle ne se traduit pas par une véritable queue de paon (comme dans le cas du 1934 ?).
Très belle résonance, en l’occurence sur la chicorée, le céleri et le citron entrant dans la confection du plat.
Puisqu’il y avait un plat de viande, on trouve ici un vin jaune qui s’accorde plutôt bien avec un pigeon saignant magnifique.

Wow, tasting 20+ DRC’s in one sitting thats just ridiculous !!

I dont recall ever seeing a note about so many great wines in one trip, almost makes me want to try Burgundy!! If only i could drink these wines

Thanks Kevin.

Surprised the '90 R-C topped the '99. That '99 is the most perfect wine I have ever tasted. The '90 was not far behind it.

Best Regards
Jeremy

Jeremy,
I almost rated the 99 RC 100pts. The first sniff of the 90 was so profound that I could have been bias. BTW, I am not sure if you know Dejan but he came to the symposium.
Best Regards,
Kevin

I’ve not met Dejan but have eaten in his restaurant several times.

He is a great guy, really passionate about Burgundy. You guys should share a bottle or two! champagne.gif

Thanks for posting, Kevin. Always enjoy reading about your amazing vinous get-to-gethers at Villa d’Este. I regret that I couldn’t make it this year.

I had 1990 vs 1999 RC within a month only a few years back, and my scores were identical to yours. Also then the 1990 was just a tad better than the 1999. Splitting hairs under a microscope, of course.

In may 2015, I could taste La Tâche 1999 (18/20+) and La Tâche 1990 (18,5/20) at the domain.

Two great wines, with an expansive 1999 (unsurprisingly less complex, more fiery, as discussed with Bernard Noblet), just needing time to challenge the 1990.

1 Like

The 99s are better wines, more freshness and purity. However, the 90s are ready and have been drinking well for awhile.

La Tache 1990 got 18,5 points by you, Laurent? Did you ever give a wine more than that?

Jürgen

Yes, many of course (ie Montrachet DRC 2002, Krug Collection 1964, Haut-Brion 1989, Chave Cathelin 1991, Clos Ste-Hune 1981, Clos de la Roche Leroy 1998, Dujac Gevrey-Combottes 1989, Mascarello Monprivato 2009, Rayas red 1990, …).
RC 2008 by the cask too (you noticed that Kevin wrote : the 1999 have more freshness and purity than the 1990).

You may find my 18,5/20 underrated (but never forget the context). It stands for 96,25, which is a high rating.
I was semi-blind as Bernard Noblet proposed to guess the wine (cru + vintage).
I did not modify my rating after discovering the wine.

Did you taste this Tâche 90 ?
In which conditions ?

Kevin,
Thanks for writing this up. One heck of an event. Francois and Marite really outdid themselves this year. My friend Birdie really had a great time. Thanks for taking him to lunch.

Your notes missed the 1999 DRC-RSV. Here was my take on it:

Much darker than the other wines. A deep brooding nose that opened up with fresh crushed dark berries. Very fine tannin that dries on the finish. Great mid-palate intensity. 96

Kelly,

I remember a tasting at the domain in june 2005.
We ended with DRC Echézeaux 2002, 1999, 1989 (semi-blind).
Bernard Noblet wanted to illustrate the possible evolution of an extravagant/baroque Echézeaux 1999 (he said, as written in my report : “I should have left more stem in this expansive/solar Echézeaux 1999”)

_Echézeaux - Domaine de La Romanée-Conti 1999 :
JP17 vers 18 - PP18 - LG16,5+
Robe presque noire. Le nez très mûr (limite surmûr ?) surprend par ses senteurs assurément singulières : pain d’épices, mûre, poivre, cerise confite, liqueur de cassis. La bouche confirme un caractère baroque : liqueur, pruneau (sans connotation péjorative, car on pense à la prune très mûre), menthol, variations balsamiques (laurier, eucalyptus, ciste). Elle est curieusement très extravertie (on tend vers une syrah ?), construite sur une grosse matière peu académique en l’état mais solide, et sa nette fraîcheur sous-jacente lui confère un caractère ubiquiste. Selon Bernard Noblet, il aurait été utile de laisser plus de rafle ! Un vin grand écart, joliment énigmatique.

Echézeaux - Domaine de La Romanée-Conti 1989 :
JP18 – PP18 - LG18
Le 89 goûté dans la foulée est très intéressant en termes de comparaison des évolutions (si l’on admet que le 89 pouvait initialement ressembler au 99). Un fumet aromatique corsé et délicieusement bouqueté, composé d’épices, de tabac, de pruneau, de laurier, de réglisse et de café, trahit un net saut dans le temps. La bouche, dotée d’une belle épure, reste très classique, plutôt juvénile ; elle est incontestablement fine et bénéficie d’une fraîcheur significative (avec à la clé un académisme retrouvé 10 ans plus tard par la réhabilitation de la fraîcheur et de la sveltesse). Elle plaide ainsi pour une belle trajectoire de l’extravagant 99.
_

Laurent,

I bought a few bottles after release to a price looking laughable today but was amongst the highest for a wine at that time. Sadly no more left. Drunk my last bottle about 5 years ago with friends. To me all bottles were epitome of Burgundy. I never had a better one (Rousseau and Roumier GG´s from top years included). I thought the wine has it all. Complexity, intensity, ripeness, freshness, length. This is why I never understood people who claimed 1990 wasn’t a top year for Burgundy. At least DRC hit the nail on the head IMO. Maybe some thought the wine has a too hedonistic aspect to be good. Not to me. I have no problem with ripeness. As long it is accompanied by the same amount of freshness. Which is the case at DRC 1990.

Today the prices of DRC are out of the universe for me and most wine lovers. Unfortunately.

Jürgen

In december 2006, Kevin Shin wrote on this forum a post confirming your appreciation (6 La Tâche 1990, tasting years 2014/2015/2016, ratings between 98 and 100/100).

You never bath in the same river and sharing a bottle would be great :slight_smile: