I promised to post on the Bollinger VVF, and decided to include the other champagnes from this weekend.
1996 Bollinger Vielles Vignes Francaises – Served with one of Jonathan’s specialty dishes: classic cold seafood platter of lobster, shrimp, and Dungeness crab cooked after the traditional, time consuming individual prep in court bullion and chilled overnight and served with homemade, aged mignonette, cocktail and mustard/mayonnaise sauces. Also beautiful Glidden Point oysters. Larger bubbles than expected, but they didn’t come off as aggressive at all. With the benefit of hindsight, I would have served this in Gabriel Gold glasses rather than the Lehmann handblown tulips I used (my usual champagne favorites). There was a background of mangoes, banaas, especially when you took a large sip (almost a sacrilege) followed by a chocolate finish. While both lithe and elegant, this had a broad palate, with great complexity and persistence, balanced but not a serious acid back. Its breeding showed through for me, with a certain je ne said quoi that I can’t describe but could point to. I would have loved some more time with this. As it was, I saved my last half glass longer than the others and was rewarded for doing so, with an even deeper mid-palate and snappier finish. One of my champagnes of the year, for sure.
1988 Deutz Vinotheque – With caviar: Luscious golden color, delicate and very exuberant bubbles. On the nose, well developed and age appropriate oxidative notes, alongside lighter citrusy and floral elements. Very pretty, with a touch of bitterness after the VVF, with decidedly more delicacy. There was still good depth, and I wish I had more time with it. Overall impression was clean and bright, not wildly complex, and a good reset from the previous bottle, with which it could not (and was not expected to) compete.
NV Laurent-Perrier Champagne Grand Siècle Grande Cuvée – a good move for the last afternoon champagne, served with a rich uni pasta. Red berry fruit, much more linear and clean than the two older bottles which preceded it, effusive by comparison. I very much liked the mineral line and backbone, though it came across as having still fruit and alcohol to be tamed, mostly by contrast. Perhaps it was made to look more unwieldy than it truly was, but delightful in its own right. Our guests brought this bottle and it was much appreciated.
1995 Charles Heidsieck Champagne Blanc des Millénaires - voluptuous palate, very round, more brioche than expected, in a very nice place. I was a little tired at that point, and enjoyed rather than evaluated. Actually a nice surprise, and outperformed expectations.
NV Francis Boulard Les Murgiers Extra Brut – This is the 2007 base, 2015 disgorgement. If I was tired on the last bottle, I was pretty much done for at this time (getting over an illness, not suddenly become a lightweight!), but do remember that this was lovely, balanced, and as pleasurable always. No concerns about its trajectory, feeling perfectly mature and an absolute pleasure, if not an intellectual giant
2002 Deutz Cuvée William Deutz – Opened after dinner (and after the stepson went to bed) on my birthday to have with caviar. To get into the spirit, I put on an evening gown and JR his tux, and we lit candles. It was certainly an atmosphere designed to enhance champagne. This opened up with tiny, effusive bubbles and a lemony, hyacinth nose, without much in the way of age apparent. That impression continued into a juicy palate, lip smacking, and a good match with the caviar. The lemons gave way to white peach with very fresh and dancing mouthfeel. Not too many notes, but the notes were deep, with good balance. It was a very nice drink, both a gulpable and serious champagne.
NV Bruno Paillard Champagne Extra-Brut Rosé Première Cuvée - – Our friends brought this on Saturday and we didn’t get to it with them, so decided to pop it with delicious fried chicken on Sunday. Light salmon color, good citrus back, lighter red berry, like a really good sparkling provencal rosé, a much different beast to what followed, not something to go with red meat or duck, but great with fried chicken. Delicate, minerally, I admit it went fast and was appreciated, if not exactly contemplated. Did well in Gabriel Gold glasses.
2002 Ruinart – horribly corked. Very sad.
NV Egly-Ouriet Grand Cru Brut Rosé – What more can I say about this that I haven’t said before? My favorite all around NV rosé, exactly in my sweet spot of character, richness, style, class and elegance. Love it.