Impressions 1-28-19

Wine Impressions - 1-28-19

Bubbles:
1984 Lauer, Sparkling Riesling - not my style but very much enjoyed by others. To me, it felt tired and aged without development.
N/V Roederer, Brut - always reliable and always good. $20.

Whites:
2015 Claude Branger, Muscadet Le Fils des Gran Moutons - brilliant; crisp and crystalline with fine fruit and length. Joyous stuff.
2012 Cowan Cellars, Ribolla Gialla - skin-fermented; brass color, tangerine skin nose and flavors of marmalade, chalk and citrus all in a bright, mouth-watering package. At a good place now; makes me wonder what another six years will bring.
2014 Dom Chisciotte, Fiano - skin-fermented and atypical to the variety but blossoms into life when served with seafood. Such a change, from dull to brilliant, all because of shrimp.
2017 Collio di Lapio, Fiano - clear, clean, typical and simply terrific. Love this wine!
2015 Birichino, Chenin Blanc Jurassic Park Vineyard - lightweight, energetic and lip smacking. Pretty, pretty, pretty . . .
1996 Lopez de Heredia, Blanco Vina Tondonia - touch of oxidation, remarkable breadth, hint of caramel and lots of layers. The old whites from this house are always instructive.
2016 Droin, Chablis - showing young but opens over the evening to be worthy of its AOC. (Aside: after having several different Chablis at the village, premier cru and grand cru levels from several different producers, I surmise that this vintage requires time in the cellar.)
2008 Lopez de Heredia, Blanco Vina Gravonia - similar to the ‘96 Tondonia noted above but fresher and showing less caramel. So very good.

Reds:
2017 Harrington, Cabernet Franc Cedar Crest Vineyard - from up near Mt. Lassen, this has a lifted, slightly volatile nose, rich fruit, no green notes and lovely balance.
2009 Prunotto, Barolo Bussia - young but light in the mouth until the tannins clamp down. Over the evening it gains flesh and sustain. Nice wine.
2014 Katsaros, Valos - 100% Xinomavro from slopes near Mt. Olympus in northern Greece. Grippy but not drying, flavors and aromas that remind me of Trousseau. Well made and seems to handle its tannins which are often aggressive in this variety. Wonderful with pizza.
2015 Leroy, Bourgogne - all structure at the moment with only a bit of fruit showing through - Hold.
2011 Alaine Verset, Cornas - oh my goodness, yes! Everything good Cornas should be with more fruit and polish than Noel Verset’s wines. On the several occasions I’ve had Noel’s wines (prior to their price inflation), I thought them good but a bit rustic. This bottle is more to my taste; less cigarette ash, more balance, broader fruit and yet it retains that sauvage element that makes Cornas my favorite Syrah. An eye opener for me and a delight.
2017 Colombera & Garella, Vispavola - spicy, grippy and lively; a medium weight, earthy red that is easy to drink.
2016 Birichino, Cinsault Bechthold Vineyard - lightweight, almost diaphanous stuff with intensity and more finish than one expects. Memorable.
2012 Alessandro Rivetto, Barolo Lazzarito - balanced, grippy but lightweight Nebbiolo that makes me wish we had more. Yum.
2016 Jean-Marc Pillot, Bourgogne Les Grandes Terres - a bit odd aromatically; not bad or off but unusual; but nice in the mouth with medium weight, a nice crunchy edge to the fruit and good depth.

Best, Jim

Thanks, as always Jim.
I always go and shop Birichino wines after reading your praise over the years, but I’ve yet to pull the trigger.
Might actually do it this time.
Cheers.

Dennis,
I buy only a few of their wines - I think they’re all good but the Cinsault and Chenin I’ll spend for.
Best, Jim

I sense more “respect” than love here…

Thanks again for your taste good notes, Jim!!!


I have tasted a few of Prunotto’s Barbaresco and Barolo offerings, and found them to be very austere. I am not a huge Neb fan, so I don’t know how this winery’s style compares with others in the area.

I enjoy the Xinomavro variety’s flavor profile as well as its ability to age, though most of the bottlings I have tried were from Boutari (in Naoussa, Greece). I never would’ve thought Trousseau was stylistically similar, myself…

Drew,
I used Trousseau only as a descriptor for my impression of the aromas and flavors.
I did not intend to say they were stylistically the same. If it came across that way, my bad.
Best, Jim

You are quite perceptive (or you’ve been reading my notes too long).
Best, Jim

Jim is the master of saying so much with so few words when it comes to wine. Always the best read, particularly for those with ADHD like me.

I have some 2011 Allemand Cornas - you give me hope that it’s in a good place right now, so I may not have to wait until 2030!!!

Agree with Todd on Jim’s way with words. Also a big fan of Collio de Lapio’s Fiano di Avellino that Jim liked in this tasting. Almost always good, sometimes very!

Thanks, gents.
I’m betting that Allemand will be fine with a little air.
Had the 2011 Alain Verset again last night and it was so very good.
Best, Jim

I think you are pretty badass drinking 18 wines on 1/28/19 btw

Jim, Have you had the 2 Shepherds Bechthold vineyard Cinsault, and, if so, how do they compare?

Art Rose


corrected

Speaking of Bechthold Vineyard Cinsault, another that I’d recommend in addition to Birichino is the is the 2016 from Fields Family. Tasted that one last spring and was impressed.

Onesta and Turley also produce out of that Cinsault vineyard and both do a good job. The Two Shepherds is very good, as well.
My fav is the Birichino but we’re splitting hairs here.
The nice thing is that none of these wines are expensive so comparing for yourself is not daunting.
Best, Jim