Wine Impressions - 3-1-19
Bubbles:
N/V Dhondt-Grellet, Champagne Prestige du Moulin - electric aromatics, focused and crystalline in the mouth, fine bead and “present” on the finish. Delicious Blanc de Blancs.
Whites:
2016 Louis Michel, Chablis Vaillons - still showing young and coiled but better than several months ago, tart and tense. Give it time.
2014 Idlewild, Cortese - a partially skin-fermented white wine with volume and grip but not without charm. Flecks of oxidation and bitterness blend easily with freshness, minerality and flavors of citrus zest (not pith). With spinach pizza, da bomb!
2017 Edmunds St. John, Heart Of Gold - blend of Grenache Blanc and Vermentino; crisp, bright, flavorful and mouthwatering. Symbiotic with shrimp and rice.
2017 Matrot, Bourgogne - all Chard; initial hit of sulphur on the nose dissipates over time, solid Bourgogne Blanc in all respects and develops some nuance over an hour or two. Should age a little.
2016 Ziereisen, Viviser - this is 100% Chasselas from Germany; begins slightly fizzy but loosens up to become a bright, angular and quite engaging rendition of this grape - which, truth be told, I’ve not often found engaging. Pleasant.
Reds:
2011 Alain Verset, Cornas - this blew me away; everything Cornas should be yet still ripe and juicy. Beyond impressive. A second bottle was just as impressive; great wine.
2010 Hundred Acre, Cabernet Sauvignon - not as outsized as I expected but it’s still one note and the wood is more than I can handle.
2014 Auteur, Pinot Noir Manchester Ridge - a really nice Pinot with too much oak. ‘Shame.
2016 Sea Slopes, Pinot Noir Sonoma Coast - never heard of this label before but found the wine surprisingly complex and tasty. I liked it.
2016 Dirty and Rowdy, Mourvèdre Enz Vineyard - tight, tannic and nowhere near ready but so much structure and good stuff evident; this should age well.
2015 Vincent, Pinot Noir Armstrong Vineyard - smoked bacon, cranberry nose; similar in the mouth but beautiful textures and good length. Young but so much complexity already - special Pinot.
2013 Idlewild, Nebbiolo - takes about an hour in the decanter to open up and, when it does, it’s worth the wait. Cherry dominates the nose but there is so much presence in the mouth that it carries one off into Burgundy-type complexity and texture. Only on the finish do the tannins clamp down, until it’s open long enough for them to integrate. A lovely and beautifully made wine.
2014 Henrick Mobitz, Pinot Noir Kapelle - German Pinot that references Burgundy; evident depth and quality on the nose; coiled and opening gradually over the evening; complete and complex with airing. Fine today, likely better with time. An eye opener.
2011 Capitoz, Chianti Classico Gran Selectione - while the fruit was forward the depth and nuance of the wine was evident. I’m not usually a Chianti fan but this turned me; better than expected and something I ordered more of. Yum.
Best, Jim