Coz it’s time for Cos
March 19, 2019
A vertical tasting by 6 of the fun, regular Bordeaux crew, plus 2 gracious cameo-guests, landed at a New York City midtown restaurant where the tomahawks were brandished and the crab cakes devoured.
1995 Charles Heidsieck Blanc de Millenaires Champagne
Ripe and quite lush, but good acidity nonetheless. Hint of tropical fruit. Good length. B+
2014 Cos d’Estournel Blanc
Ripe, and sweet fruit. Some waxy texture. Oak. Not in same playing field as most Graves’ whites. B
1982 Cos d’Estournel
Cigar, fruitcake and a tiny bit of fishy smell. Ripe blue fruit, smooth and a little mint. Comparably a little lean for the vintage. B+
1985 Cos d’Estournel
Plenty of leather, herbs, earth on the awesome bouquet. Cherry, more herbs, mineral and good core of Cabernet-based fruit. Full-bodied elegance. A beauty. My and group’s WOTN. A-
1986 Cos d’Estournel
More cigar and herb smell. Robust, complex and good savory taste sensation. Consistent with bottles that I’ve had before in delivering solid claret experience with that nice sense of austerity. My and groups 2nd-place WOTN. A-
1989 Cos d’Estournel
Some hollowness and lean for the vintage. Some said still young, but also consistent with my prior bottles experiences in being an average, non-pound-the-table-wow, experience. B/B+
1990 Cos d’Estournel
Another captivating bouquet this time with more sweetness. Ripe, some savory notes, and long finish. B+
1995 Cos d’Estournel
Usually punched well above its young weight in many tastings I’ve been to, but this time the youthfulness showed and possibly masked that extra oomph that it could show, but I still believe that this wine will continue to do well with the components it has. High acidity and, perhaps, could have used a day-long decant prior to drinking. B+
2000 Cos d’Estournel
More youthful but another bottle that one can look forward to with more cellar time. Hold, definitely and optimistically. B
2003 Cos d’Estournel
Just as in a Cos dinner-tasting 5 years ago by (almost) the same group, this could not live up to anywhere near the level that the rest of the bottles performed. None of the seemingly efficient balance and house-flavor as the other bottles. If blinded, I likely wouldn’t think Bordeaux. I brought the bottle, offered along with 2 other vintages, but the group had always planned to maximize offered vintages in verticals, and still heard grumbling from an attendee that I should shoulder a good portion of the dinner bill just for bringing this one. C/B-