2011 Georges Descombes Morgon Vermont Vieilles Vignes

As a relative nouveau, if you’ll pardon the expression, to bojo – especially bojo with age – I didn’t know quite what to expect here, and I’m sure I lack the proper vocabulary to articulate the experience, but this wine had been highly recommended to me by someone “in the know”.

When I opened it before dinner I couldn’t get much aromatically, so I poured a tiny shot glass. It smelled and tasted much like most of the rather pedestrian gamay I have had previously. There was also an effervescence to it, and frankly I wasn’t sure whether that was an asset or liability.

An hour or two later, with a simple burger, something quite different emerged. The fizz and tension were completely gone, and we were presented with a really beautiful wine. More cherry/cherry vanilla than the sometimes tart rasberry I had expected, the wine had a silky mouthfeel and was amazingly long. The label says 13% abv, but it felt much lighter. This wine went down faster than…well, let’s just say it was emptied by three of us very quickly.

I kept trying to place it in some sort of context as the glasses quickly disappeared. I am probably overstating just a bit, but it reminded me of a cross between a 15-20 yr-old vosne romanee and a 25+ yr-old Musar. A bit of spice and funk – but lighter – and in a silky long package.

The way it evolved so quickly, I’m not quite prepared to call it one to stash away for decades. But who cares? 92