A couple of friends came for lunch, and it was just about warm enough to have Champagne and hors d’oeuvres outside, before retiring indoors for chicken, duck fat potatoes and for the "winefriendly” green vegetable, garlicky spinach.
We began with two George’s Vernay Condrieus; the 1998 didn’t last too long in the oxygen, but was absolutely gorgeous for thirty minutes full of white peaches, apricots and honeysuckle. The 2015 was brighter and easier, with apricots and a slight edge of cassis. Lasted beautifully, and we enjoyed a couples of glasses that night and there was no discernible falling off.
The 1975 Mondavi reserve was everything that an old California should be; spicy fruit, a touch of leather and a full but easy heft on the palate, and a long delightful finish.
Sadly the 1975 Domaine de Chevalier did not show as well. The first bottle was corked, so the replacement was opened, decanted and poured. (Both the Mondavi and the first bottle had been decanted a couple of hours before). To what extent the short decant effected the wine I am sure, as this has always been pretty brilliant.
Not often I entertain someone who appreciates good Cognac, so pulled out 2 bottles both Frapin late landed and bottled by Harveys; a 1942 and 1943. On the day, the 1942 performed better, more aromatically complex and smoother than the 1943. The only other time I have had them side by side, I marginally preferred the 1943.
Having had the good fortune to be one of the friends in question, along with my husband Jonathan, I must compliment Mark on his hospitality and cooking. It was an altogether delightful afternoon.
His notes on the wines are in line with my impressions, though I’d comment further on the very fun bottle of Taittinger which I believe was disgorged something like 30 years ago. It had impressively exuberant bubbles and a nice softness to the palate, matching quite well with some delicious pâté. We’ve had more intact bottles of the '98 Vernay Coteau de Vernon - I’m sorry this one was a little less than solid. I’d also add that the Mondavi had some strong notes of eucalyptus at first, which is not something I usually enjoy in wine, but was so beautifully put together in its aromatic profile that they didn’t bother me. The sweetness of the fruit was impressive.
The Cognacs were an absolute treat, and ended up being my beverage of the afternoon (BOTA?) I agree that the '42 was marginally better, with the '43 just slightly more dried, which took away from the roundness by a hair. It was so generous of Mark to open both when he learned we enjoy Cognac!
We are not “aging (y)our Condrieu so long.” There was a 2015, too. We have some aged Condrieu in the cellar, which is very interesting to taste next to a young one. Just because everyone says something should be drunk young (or old or cold or warm) doesn’t mean I feel I need to follow that common wisdom all the time - quite the contrary. The only way to develop a real understanding of something is to see for yourself. Sometimes, you discover something extraordinary. The first 20 minutes or so of that '98 had a nose that Mark described as “profound.” I’d say that’s reason enough to try the experiment, despite the risk that someone will surely tell me I’m doing it wrong.
You drank it too young!
You drank it too old!
You drank it too warm!
You drank it too cold!
You f–d up when drinking that wine that you bought,
You should listen to US next time, yes you ought.
In the early 1990s, I was in Geneva, and I went to a Christie’s auction. They poured ch. Grillet 1899, and while it was not a great wine, it was interesting and I wish I had bought one of the lots. About $100 per bottle, if I remember properly.
(It was my auction, and I thought I had bought a case if 1985 Latour, instead I ended up with two cases of Canon 1982).
