TN: 1996 Burgundy Retrospective - The first session.

1996 BURGUNDY RETROSPECTIVE - Clarity - Vienna, Virginia (4/26/2019)

Last year, Bryan J. held a comprehensive 1996 Burgundy Retrospective in NYC. Bryan and I decided to organize a similar event over five meals, following 60 to 70 wines from the 96 vintage. This was the first event. Bryan generously offered all the wines.

Six of us gathered at Clarity’s private room. The chef/owner Jon Krinn loves wine and really took great care of us. The tasting menu was well thought out and perfectly executed to complement the wines. The wine service was very good.

Combing the 96 vintage and the provenance, the wines remain incredibly youthful in general, other than the Coche and the Tollot-Beaut which were a bit tired. Most of the wines still need a decade or more to reach peak as even after two decades, not much sous bois and other tertiary notes were developed.

White
The Leflaive showed beautifully. The Coche was slightly tired.

  • 1996 Maison Leroy Meursault Les Narvaux - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault
    Initially, thinking slightly corked but perhaps a smell of dirty damp cellar. Very youthful but straightforward nose displaying apple, fresh lemon, a hint of oxidized apple peel and oyster shell. Medium concentration, fully integrated palate, apple and a hint of slightly oxidized apple peel, good acidity, medium mineral and a medium, slightly dirty, finish. IMO, Maison Leroy whites are not better than other negoce whites. I would avoid in lieu of the current lofty price. (88 pts.)
  • 1996 Domaine Bernard Morey et Fils Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Embrazées - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru
    En magnum, not surprisingly the freshest wine of the flight. Very youthful rich nose displaying pineapple, apple, lemon curd, smoke, light butter and wet stone. Very good concentration, rich concentrated yellow fruit, good acidity, wet stone mineral and a medium to long youthful fat yellow fruit driven finish. This is rich, fat and a bit straightforward. Nevertheless, it is a perfectly aged Burgundy that is drinking beautifully. Very good showing. (93 pts.)
  • 1996 Domaine Leflaive Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Pucelles - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru
    Perfectly mature energetic nose displaying ripe yet precise yellow citrus fruit, light caramel, a hint of matchstick, sesame, spice spices and limestone mineral. Beautifully integrated palate, finely layered concentrated sweet yellow fruit, exceptional precision and focus, bright acidity, strong mineral and a long sweet yellow fruit driven finish with matchstick and sesame at the end. Almost identical expression as the bottle from 2016. (95 pts.)
  • 1996 Coche-Dury Puligny-Montrachet Les Enseignères - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Puligny-Montrachet
    Having had a great magnum in 2012, I am looking forward to drinking it again. A bit advanced but still enjoyable showing a lot of butterscotch and caramel. Being a label whore that I am, I am still enjoying it. (90 pts.)

Volnay
They were all solid and remained very youthful.

  • 1996 Domaine Michel Lafarge Volnay 1er Cru Clos du Château des Ducs - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Volnay 1er Cru
    Very youthful nose displaying ripe red fruit with a hint of black, strawberry and rhubarb tart, cranberry sauce, tar, charred steak, dark spices and earth. Excellent concentration, nicely layered slight dry red fruit, round yet slightly masculine due to coarse tannings, bright acidity, strong earthy mineral and a medium to long concentrated red fruit driven finish. Still not showing much of sous bois. There is enough fruit to improve further. I am not a big fan of the earthy note in red Burgundy and my rating reflects my preference. Nevertheless, my wine of the flight. (93 pts.)
  • 1996 Domaine Michel Lafarge Volnay 1er Cru Clos des Chênes - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Volnay 1er Cru
    Another very youthful nose displaying ripe red fruit with a hint of black, raspberry, blackberry, a hint of cherry compote, soy, cumin, animal and strong earth. Excellent concentration, concentrated slightly dry red fruit, precise and linear, round yet masculine like the Ducs, bright acidity, strong earthy mineral and a medium to long concentrated red fruit driven finish. There is a bit more soy and game compare to the Duc. Another very earthy masculine expression. Still needs time to develop sous bois and other tertiary notes. (92 pts.)
  • 1996 Domaine des Comtes Lafon Volnay 1er Cru Santenots-Du-Milieu - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Volnay 1er Cru
    Feels more modern and clean compare to the Lafarges. Another youthful nose displaying ripe black fruit with a hint of red, blackberry jam, black cherry, cranberry, very floral, caramel, sweet spices and limestone mineral. Excellent concentration, concentrated sweet black fruit, rich and round yet also masculine due to slightly coarse tannins, bright acidity, strong mineral and a medium to long sweet black fruit driven finish. I like clean and generous fruit expression. Others seem to strongly prefer the Lafarges. Needs time to develop sous bois. (93 pts.)

Corton and La Romanee
The Tollot-Beaut was a bit advanced. The other two were very youthful and can easily improve for two decades or more.

  • 1996 Bouchard Père et Fils La Romanée - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, La Romanée Grand Cru
    Incredibly youthful nose displaying ripe black fruit, blackberry jam, black cherry, dark spices and mineral. Exceptional concentration, layers upon layers of concentrated black fruit, rich and opulent, slightly chewy yet also silky, bright acidity, good limestone mineral and a long intense black fruit driven finish. Initially a bit one dimensional. With air, becomes more complex. Not showing much Vosne spice. The palate is very appealing but the nose is not terribly complex, especially considering the pedigree. This may develop nicely in another decade. Even if this develops beautifully, I am not sure it deserves the current lofty price. (94 pts.)
  • 1996 Domaine Tollot-Beaut Corton-Bressandes - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Corton Grand Cru
    The most mature red of the evening. Fully mature nose displaying subtle yellow cherry, strawberry water, dry fig, toffee, strong soy, cola, sous bois, iron and earth. Fully resolved palate, delicate red fruit, very fluid, bright acidity, fully resolved tannins and a medium to long subtle red fruit driven finish. For me, it is showing too much soy. Others like it more. (89 pts.)
  • 1996 Faiveley Corton-Clos des Cortons Faiveley - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Corton Grand Cru
    En magnum, incredibly youthful big scale nose displaying rich red fruit, cherry pie, raspberry and blackberry concentrate, dark spices, rose and earth. Exceptional concentration, packed intense red fruit, dense, mouth puckering acidity, still quite noticeable but not too coarse tannins, and a long concentrated ripe black fruit driven finish. This particular magnum is clean and not oaky. This still needs another decade or two in this format. (94 pts.)

Bonna Mares
I was pleasantly surprised by how good the Jadot was.

  • 1996 Louis Jadot Bonnes Mares - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Bonnes Mares Grand Cru
    Very youthful expressive nose displaying perfectly ripe sweet red fruit with a hint of black, cherry compote, black cherry, blackberry, light caramel, coconut, a hint of sweet spices and limestone mineral. Beautiful harmonious palate, very finely layered concentrated sweet red and black fruit, silky, polished and fluid, bright acidity, nicely resolved tannins and a long dark cherry and mineral driven finish. I have often found the 90s Jadots to be a bit rustic and murky but not here. It remains very youthful and can easily improve for another decade or more. Excellent showing. (95 pts.)
  • 1996 Domaine Comte Georges de Vogüé Bonnes Mares - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Bonnes Mares Grand Cru
    Youthful expressive nose displaying concentrated ripe red fruit, cherry pie, raspberry preserve, blackberry, caramel, a hint of toasted oak, spicy spices and iron mineral. Exceptional concentration, layers upon layers of concentrated red fruit, rich and full yet fluid and polished, bright acidity, strong mineral and a long ripe red fruit driven finish. It remains very youthful not showing much tertiary notes. Considering the fruit concentration and structure, this can easily improve for two or three more decades. Promising but perhaps slightly less enjoyable than the Jadot version at the moment. (94 pts.)
  • 1996 Domaine G. Roumier / Christophe Roumier Bonnes Mares - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Bonnes Mares Grand Cru
    Decisively the darkest wine of the evening. Incredibly youthful nose displaying intense black fruit, black cherry, blackberry, rose, perfume, caramel, dark spices and iron. Exceptional concentration, very finely layered perfectly ripe sweet black fruit, rich, round and fluid, perfect amount of acidity and mineral, and a long sweet black fruit driven finish with rose and caramel at the end. This is all about the sensual rich palate. It is not showing much tertiary notes. This can also easily improve for two decades or more. WOTN by all. (97 pts.)

Based on the evening, the 96s remain incredibly youthful and still need time. My sincere gratitude goes to Bryan for offering these gems. A great time was had by all!
Posted from CellarTracker

1996 BURGUNDY RETROSPECTIVE - THE SECOND SESSION - Eddie V’s - Tysons Corner, VA (4/28/2019)

This was the second of the five sessions. Six of us gathered at our usual spot, Eddie V in Tysons Corner.

In lieu of the 96 vintage and the provenance, the wines remained incredibly youthful. Most of the wines showed excellent fruit concentration but acidity was a bit overwhelming. At this stage, the wines seemed a bit angry and bitter, i.e. coiled, acidic and a bit rough. I believe the 96s will eventually blossom in another decade or two when more tertiary notes emerge to compensate the structure.

White Burgundy
The 96 Lefaive Batard was incredible. The 96 L Ltour CC was a pleasant surprise. However, there is a significant bottle variation per Bryan.

  • 1996 Louis Latour Corton-Charlemagne - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru
    Beautiful light yellow color. Expressive nose displaying yellow fruit, apple, white peach, lemon curd, light caramel, spearmint and wetstone. With air, it gains weight also gets lighter. Fully integrated harmonious palate, nicely layered sweet yellow fruit, good energy and precision, bright acidity, strong limestone mineral and a long lemon curd riven finish with spearmint at the end. This is a pleasant surprise. However, Bryan points out the high rate of premox so caveat emptor. (94 pts.)
  • 1996 Domaine Leflaive Bâtard-Montrachet - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru
    The fill is a bit low which is worrisome. Beautiful pale color and the nose reflects it. Absolutely gorgeous perfectly mature white Burgundy nose displaying perfectly ripe yellow fruit, pineapple, lemon curd, a hint of pear, flint, smoke, sesame, oyster shell and wet stone. Beautifully integrated palate, very finely layered subtle yellow fruit, perfect precision, exceptional freshness, incredibly energy, bright acidity, strong wet stone mineral and a long yellow citrus driven finish with flint and sesame at the end. Despite the low fill, this bottle remains incredibly youthful. I typically prefer the Chevalier but not today. (98 pts.)
  • 1996 Domaine Leflaive Chevalier-Montrachet - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru
    Slightly deeper color than the Batard. Medium expressive nose displaying ripe yellow fruit, pineapple, lemon curd, butterscotch, honey, caramel, spicy spices and mineral. Excellent concentration, packed opulent yellow fruit, dense and rich, bright acidity, medium mineral and a long rich yellow fruit driven finish with butterscotch and limestone at the end. Bryan mentions that if tastes blind, he would have guessed DRC Montrachet. I agree as being slightly more advanced than usual gives additional richness. The last bottle tried two years ago was much fresher. Nevertheless, very enjoyable. (95 pts.)

Robert Groffier Les Amoureuses
This was really extracted.

  • 1996 Domaine Robert Groffier Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Les Amoureuses - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru
    Expressive nose displaying very ripe opulent red fruit, plum, raspberry jam, cherry, a hint of sous bois, dark spices, licorice, noticeable oak and earth. Excellent concentration, packed jammy red fruit, deeply toned and rich, bright acidity, good earthy mineral and a long ripe red fruit driven earthy finish. Reflecting the house style, this is heavily extracted. This is very ripe and concentrated for Amoureuses. (94 pts.)

Charmes Chambertin - Blind
The Claude Dugat was the unanimous favorite. Both the Roty and the Dugat Py were musty.

  • 1996 Domaine Denis Bachelet Charmes-Chambertin Vieilles Vignes - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru
    Wine 1, Very youthful medium expressive nose displaying concentrated black and red fruit, cherry, stewed tomato, blackberry, coffee bean, mint, iron, sweet spices and earth. Excellent concentration, nicely layered roasted black fruit, good energy and precision, bright acidity, good mineral presence and a long concentrated black fruit driven finish. This remains incredibly youthful and primary. Not showing much tertiary notes and seems a bit subdued. (93 pts.)
  • 1996 Domaine Joseph Roty Charmes-Chambertin Très Vieilles Vignes - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru
    Wine 2, Initially, really musty, a hint of TCA. Clearly corked with air. Really ripe concentrated black fruit expression. NR (flawed)
  • 1996 Bernard Dugat-Py Charmes-Chambertin - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru
    Wine 3, Also musty, slightly corked. Very youthful nose, black fruit, masculine, bright acidity and still noticeable tannins. NR (flawed)
  • 1996 Claude Dugat Charmes-Chambertin - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru
    Wine 4, From the beginning, best nose of the flight. Perfectly mature youthful nose displaying opulent red fruit, raspberry, cherry compote, sous bois, grilled cep, caramel, cappuccino, sweet spices and earth. Beautifully integrated palate, layers upon layers of rich red fruit, silky, polished and fluid, perfect amount of acidity and mineral, and a long sweet red fruit driven finish with sous bois at the end. Most guesses as Bachelet. This is drinking beautifully, a classic beautifully mature Burgundy. FWIW, Bob loved Claude Dugat when he was still reviewing Burgundy, Pierre as well. At one point, the 96 Griotte sold for more than the 96 La Tache. (96 pts.)

Musigny
The Vogue showed too much oak. The Mugnier didn’t impressive me.

  • 1996 Domaine Comte Georges de Vogüé Musigny Cuvée Vieilles Vignes - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Musigny Grand Cru
    Expressive nose displaying opulent red fruit, raspberry liqueur, strawberry jam, licorice, coconut, toasted oak, caramel, sweet spices and earth. Exceptional concentration, layers upon layers of ripe red fruit, dense yet silky and fluid, bright acidity and mineral, and a medium to long ripe concentrated red fruit driven finish with coconut and toasted oak at the end. Still showing pronounced oak. Another decade of cellaring will require to lessen oak and gain complexity. (93 pts.)
  • 1996 Jacques-Frédéric Mugnier Musigny - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Musigny Grand Cru
    En magnum. The darkest wine of the night. The first note is ash and smoke. Medium expressive nose displaying pure black fruit, blackberry, black cherry, rose, a hint of asparagus, stem, ash, smoke and crushed rocks. Excellent concentration, very finely layered black fruit, silky and fluid, bright acidity and mineral, and a long pure black fruit driven finish with ash and asparagus at the end. This remains very youthful especially en magnum. I wish the nose is a bit more expressive. (94 pts.)
  • 1996 Joseph Drouhin Musigny - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Musigny Grand Cru
    Expressive nose displaying pure red and black fruit, raspberry, black berry, black cherry, rose, dark spices and limestone. Excellent concentration, very finely layered pure red and black fruit, silky and polished, bright acidity and mineral, and a long pure black fruit driven finish. The most classic Musing y of the night. It remains very youthful and can improve for another decade or more. (95 pts.)

As usual, a great time was had by all!
Posted from CellarTracker

Thanks for the notes!

Roumier killed it in 96. From the Chambolle on up.

96 bm kinda tastes like n Rhone to me. Doesn’t take anything like roumier. So dark and black fruited and rich.

Still a baby Charlie. This one will go long.

Thanks for the notes, Kevin - as i think you know, I love the 1996 vintage for red burgs. Of the wines you list, I only own the Faiveley and Roumier but your impressions overall are valuable. Am looking forward to the rest of your notes on this series. Doesn’t surprise me about the Jadot, who (which?) really nailed The vintage.

Thanks for the notes Kevin.

Thomas Morey pulled out a bottle of 1985 Bernard Morey Embrazées for us last week. Man it was good.

and did even better in 95

Great idea, and thanks for doing this (someone has to). 1996 reds have suffered a fair amount of bashing (which allowed for some bargains for a while), but I mostly love the vintage, although a little less so in the CdB. All the talk about the acids dominating is just misguided fluff. The main thing to realize is that it’s a vintage that will take a long time to come around in many instances, as Kevin has pointed out.

Kevin,

Thanks for note on Clos des Corton, have 4 or 5 6L’s so your note doesn’t give me a lot of hope they will be mature in my lifetime.

Kris, you are doing a service for an as-yet unborn wine berserker

Glad to read that 96 red Burgundy is good . I was always bothered by the excessive acidity but was hoping it would fade away .

Thanks for the TNs - somehow, I own 3 of the wines you tasted.

I have a 3 year old, so maybe he can drink them when he is 40…

His 10th Anniversary party?

Can’t actually remember even a single bottle of '96 red burg from any producer that I have had over the last 10 years (DRC, Leroy, Rousseau, Faiveley Musigny, Roumier etc) that has wowed me, and very few that have been better than just Ok…


Best bottle I do have noted was a '96 DRC RC, which I scored in the low 90’s range.

Just not a fan of the vintage.

I find the combination of tannin and fruit (or lack of) give the wines a flavor profile that tastes like iron, hoping that softens, the last 1996’s I own are these damn 6L and they were a steal so i can wait.

I think many are just still too young. Much like the 75 and 86 vintages in Bordeaux, it will take a long time, but I think the wines will get there. Just had the 96 F. Mugnier Musigny and Fuees, and they were wonderful. If you are not liking you bottles of these, feel free to send them my way.

Thanks for the notes Kevin. Love Clarity (not a fan of the private room though; feels claustrophobic). Not surprised Jon took care of you.

All my 96’s are already long gone…sold most of them years ago.


Don’t think I have more than a few bottles of any '96’s left…and don’t really need to wait another 20+ years to see if they maybe turn out Ok, and have more than enough other Burgundy vintages I am confident in and enjoy, so just didn’t see the point of keeping them.