Dinner Party TNs--Egon Muller, Musar, Quivet, 97 Port, Bevan, others

It has been some time since I put together a dinner party. We had a wonderful time together—time with friends is truly so precious. I cooked and served everything again.

With assorted cheeses and crackers:
2013 Westcott Vineyards Brilliant

Such a well-named sparkler. Methode Traditionelle, and this is a stunning beauty. So much length and drive and yet the bubbles and the appley fruit caress you at the same time. Definitely will benefit from some further ageing, this honestly stands up to almost any medium-level Champagne I’ve had and I can’t mind the price tag of C$35.

With Peach Amaretto Fruit Soup
2017 Egon Muller Scharzhof Ries

Not much of this comes in here and it doesn’t stay on the shelf very long. I wanted to crack one open to try. Sizzling wine here, it still has the vivacious sternness of Muller, but this low-level offering is more than approachable now. It has a touch of frizzante and is very consistent with the apple, steel and sweet lime notes on aroma and palate. Delightful.

With tossed salad
2014 Christian Moreau Chablis Les Clos

For whatever reason I didn’t give this much of a decant and by the end of the night it was clear I should have. Starts out tight but “correct” for me for Les Clos with plenty of mineral and seashell and slight chalky feel to apple and tinge of grapefruit and salt flavours. With air time, rounds out and up just that little bit. Cracking Chablis.

With Salmon with rhubarb and crème fraiche
2012 Bevan Cellars Ritchie Chard

Wanted to give my guests both sides of the Chardonnay equation. I will try some of this again today (dinner party was Saturday) but I have to confess I was pretty nonplussed with this wine. It wasn’t hot or alcoholic to me, but it seemed to be rather abrupt and more, seemed to be missing the Ritchie citrus signature I’ve had with other producers from there. I’d almost say it’s in an awkward stage, but we’re 7 years out and that shouldn’t be the case.

With pasta in homemade rose sauce
2000 Chateau Musar

Wonderful wine. No decant, just a little slow-ox for about an hour. Absolutely Musar to me—the leather, the cumin, the hummus–all on display with fanciful red berry and dried berry fruit in the main. This is one where there is no VA at all. It’s a touch on the “light” side and I was surprised a bit that it is showing fully mature to me, but this was pretty much everyone else’s fave and it was my #2 tonight.

With short ribs in ancho chili, chipotle, adobo sauce, lime juice, maple syrup, coffee and Talisker whisky marinade served with scalloped potatoes with roasted garlic and gruyere cheese
2016 Quivet Beckstoffer Las Piedras Cab

This is a big dish and it demanded a big wine. AFWE needs to stay far away, but this isn’t a bomb wine either—it is plenty voluptuous with supercharged plum and sweet blackberry and touches of the oak here and there, but it is also shaped and reined in just enough. Here, the wine for me becomes more because it matches beautifully with the dish. I gave this about a 2.5 hour decant and that seemed to work just fine. The finish lasts a long, long time.

With chocolate mousse cake and tiramisu and other pastries (brought by one of the guests–I don’t do any baking!)
1997 Dow VP

My WOTN, fan-tastic port. I decanted this for 12 hours before serving. The very present thing here is balance and elegance. There is next to no heat and no hard edges to be found here at all. Tongue loves the raisin, fig, chocolatey currant and welter of baking spices and it has a licklicious presence on the finish.

Happy no duds in the lineup for the evening.

Kwa Heri

Mike

Had a corked bottle of 2001 Musar last week, which was disappointing, but have had fairly good luck with both 1999 and 2000 Musar being relatively “clean”. When they are on, they’re on! Great notes

It is really fun to have a dinner like this. Great notes Mike. Hope all is well. I really love Musar when it isn’t corked or too bretty.

I had the 2000 Musar recently and agree that it is showing surprisingly (and beautifully) ready to drink. Like the 1999, a relatively “clean” Musar.

Somehow, I skipped/missed 2000 in my Musar accumulation, probably just as a function of what bottles had come around at a good price at the times I was shopping. That’s a good age for a Musar, I’m not surprised that it was great.

Thanks for the notes, SG.

3 days later (out of my double-shot bottles), both the port and the Musar were simply wonderful.