Some time around a year ago having just bought a bottle of the L’Anglore Tavel I got this idea of putting together a tasting of rosé wines that go against the on-going trend of pale color and timid, inoffensive taste. It took a whole year to come into fruition but finally just before the Midsummer holiday we managed to get together with two other forumites (Mikko R and Otto F) plus two mates of ours. We lucked out with a beautiful, sunny weather and 0 faulty bottles. Next year same time same place? You betcha.
And then to short notes:
2017 Renardat-Fâche Vin du Bugey-Cerdon: A sweetish, low alcohol fizz from Poulsard and Gamay, never tried this style before. Tons of attractive sweet cherry fruit of the very primary kind. Despite obvious sweetness it is not cloying. Sports a good balance and is actually quite uplifting. Lots of fun in the glass, although I would probably not want to drink too much of it at one go. We also had the 2018 of this at the end of the evening but unfortunately no recollection of that one.
2018 Ausonia Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo Apollo: A very youthful (obviously) and fruit-forward rosé meant to act as a comparison to the Valentini. That it was and it was by no means a fair comparison but it is a nice wine in its own right. Richly red-fruited with a really marked acidity. Nicely bitter with good freshness. Not profound but very drinkable and food-friendly with no heaviness whatsoever.
2016 Château Thivin Beaujolais-Villages Rosé: Easily the wine least-suited to the evening’s theme, I was still very much interested to try this after enjoying Thivin’s red wines. Sure enough this is more like the ones to enjoy in the seaside bar wearing all white clothes but I would not turn down a glass. Excellent freshness and lift, this has held up well despite being a super cheap wine that probably should be enjoyed quite quickly from release. Bright fruited with notes of strawberry and gooseberry. Very pleasant if then quite forgettable.
2016 Domaine de l’Anglore Tavel: In some ways the most brosé of them all, this is damn close being a red wine. Tons of ripe, primary Grenache fruit on the nose. On the palate red wine like richness with a decent amount of tannin. Surprisingly tight, this is by no means an easy-going vin de soif despite its cult natural wine status that could indicate something like that. I like it but it really needs more time in the bottle. Don’t know if I would call this rosé blind, though.
2017 Château Simone Palette Rosé: A very herbal nose with some savory fruitiness. On the palate likewise remarkably savory with a fantastically firm mouthfeel and really high acidity. A very, very serious wine that took a ton of time in the decanter to get going at all. Incredible that someone is producing a rosé like this in Provence in this day and age. I guess they have enough money already? One for the cellar, no doubt.
2011 Domaine de la Mordorée Tavel La Dame Rousse: Not all that aromatic yet rich, full-bodied and firmly textured. A true testament to Tavel’s ability to age gracefully, this has evolved to a very savory, harmonious state and is still very lively and balanced. A treat.
2008 R. López de Heredia Rioja Rosado Viña Tondonia: Certainly one of the wines that I had most been looking forward to, this one truly delivered. Awesomely “mature” nose that combines bright red fruit and oak in the most fabulous manner. Very savory without being herbal. On the palate chewy and firm with remarkably pretty fruit kissed by toasty oak. Fantastically crisp, just massively delicious. Go ahead, believe the hype.
2000 R. López de Heredia Rioja Rosado Viña Tondonia: Just very, very obviously oak-aged on the nose with a strong cocoa note and again the most glorious, mature red fruit. Tremendously vivid on the palate, very oaky and not that oaky at the same time, not fruit-forward yet not lacking any fruit either. Very spry, very tasty. A singular wine if there ever was one and managed to make me an even bigger fan of LdH than I already was.
2017 Azienda Agricola Valentini Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo: Some more baby-killing, but why not? Holy shit, this is just extremely firm and tightly wound. Hugely structured and serious, this is no light and easy fun which of course makes it all the more fun. In comparison to the L’Anglore this is as clearly a rosé as possible and also clearly a wine of the highest class. Lots of acid with a saline edge, I really enjoyed this but it is very easy to see this ageing well over several decades. I’ve been wondering about the price but now I get it.
To get the most out of these wines we also had some rather nice food:
Beef tartare with salt-cured egg yolks.
Pluma of Iberico pig.
The very same pluma expertly cooked in a BGE and enjoyed with summer potatoes and grilled cabbage.