Another wonderful dinner at Marta. Grilled artichokes in a light and fresh vinagrette. Farro salad. Pizzas Patate alla Carbonara and Funghi. Branzino with peas and mint. Arctic Char with beans and tomatoes. Everything really delicious except Pizza Funghi that could be tweaked to add more mushroom flavor, cut down (eliminate?) lightly pickled onion, and assure a crispier crust.
Wines BYOed.
This time we started with 2012 Benoit Lahaye Violaine, disgorged January 2017, a gorgeous non-dosage Sans Soufre 50% Pinot Noir/Chardonnay blend. I have been warming up to certain non-dosage Champagnes, particularly those with some time on the lees before bottling, and this wine marries richness with elegance and precision. Aromas of caraway, freshly tilled soil, white flowers, and hints of licorice, salted caramel, and pear. This is slightly more oxidative than a bottle two months ago, but here it adds complexity and doesn’t dominate as it does in some Champagnes. Very vibrant mouthfeel and good length. Violaine is hard to find, but worth a search. I’m guessing 2013 will be another great wine.
The second wine, out of decanter, was 2013 (Anne and) Edmond Vatan Sancerre Chavignol Clos la Néore. From one hectare of 50-year old vines on Mont Damnés. Somewhat shut down and coiled at first, it needs over an hour in the decanter to even start to show. More animal and mineral than fruity. At least that’s how I see it. Typical quinine-black licorice-medicinal Vatan nose. Energetic mouthfeel with lots of tension of course but lovelier to my taste in this cool vintage, lower alcohol package than in riper years. What’s interesting to me, now that I think about it, is I see more in common with Francois Cotat Culs de Beaujeu than any other Mont Damnés, including favorites from the Cotat cousins and Thomas-Labaille. If I owned this wine, I would hold for another few years before trying the next bottle.