Condensation in Eurocave

Noticed I have some condensation in the back of my Eurocave. Any ideas why and how I can fix it ?

Make sure the bottles arenā€™t touching the back wall so that air can move between the wall and the bottles. This is common.

Change or clean the filter.

Why do you want to ā€œfixā€ it? Thatā€™s what provides humidity.

Too much makes mold !

I havenā€™t seen any indication that itā€™s too much, just that the condensation exists. Which is a feature, not a flaw.

How about ice forming on top back wall? Bottles not touching any walls, filters changed every year.
Happens when leaving door open just for several seconds. If I clean it and leave door closed it never forms.

My guess is that you get some frosting when you leave the door open in the summertime, but not in the winter?

Iā€™m certainly not a Eurocave expert, but I would personally not be concerned unless you had ice that persisted and accumulated. While the compressor is running, the back wall in my Eurocave will also cause frosting of the condensation, just because the back wallā€™s temperature goes below freezing, which I believe to be normal. Then, when the compressor stops, the back wall temperature will slow rise above freezing, so that ice you see should start to melt.

A relative humidity of 50% to 70% is recognized as an adequate wine cellar humidity level, with 60% the ideal. Without ideal humidity, wine quality may be affected in a number of ways. When the humidity is higher than 70%, it will likely cause mold and degradation of the labels and glue.

It does this in any season. Also, after the frosting occurs even with the door closed for weeks the frost will remain unless I clean it.

Generally, mold does not form unless there is sustained relative humidity above 80%. While I will agree that 50-70% is adequate, levels between 70 and 80% are typically considered ā€˜idealā€™, not 60%. At any rate, condensation indicates, at least in a localized area, close to 100% RH, and should be avoided.

When warm air gets in - through open door or ventilation - it cools and water conndenses on the coldest parts of the fridge. This unavoidable, and desirable as it means the environment is humid.

Agree about keeping bottles from touching the back wall. When mine did, the labels got wet and mouldy, but everything is fine now.

The back wall is refrigerated and cold, so itā€™s 100% rh on the wall, but not at air or bottle temp inside. As others have said, this is a way to maintain a good overall rh inside the cabinet and normal for eurocave operation.

I have a spot where ice always builds up on the back wall. The first time it was a surprise and so it was rather thick. Now I check every couple months and pull off any of it.
I need to look up the filter and see if/how I can replace it on my model. Perhaps something happened with it, as I didnā€™t have any problems with this buildup the first couple years. (I got it used from a friendā€¦donā€™t have the manual.)

I use a cheapo closet dehumidifier tub filled with silica. I get them for a couple bucks a piece at Asian markets. I replace them every few months when the silica dissolves completely.

Install a strong heat lamp, and turn on occasionally for dry-out. newhere

I tried the heat lamp and for some strange unknown reason I kept smelling cooked grapes.

Filters are universal and should be replaced yearly:

Thanks Joe - I have a Wine Enthusiast Nfinity, so itā€™s probably similar enough. Iā€™ll look further. Thanks for the link!

You can also pop them open & re-fill with activated charcoal and save some $$ !