2009 Wind Gap Chardonnay ‘Yuen’ James Berry & Brosseau Vineyards
I’ve waxed before about the brilliant chardonnays from this producer, but as I enjoy a 10 year-old bottling tonight, I have to beat my breast again on this – these are terrific, balanced, Burgundian-styled wines, and given the pricing, amongst the world’s best white wine QPRs (readily purchased at various times over the years for $18 to $30).
For a 10 year-old New World chardonnay (or Old World these days, given premox), this shows youthful and fresh, with just a touch of age on the finish. This is all lemon and fresh ginger, with white flowers and a hint of custard adding depth and complexity. Wonderful attack and mid palate concentration and texture, quickly washed away by big yet pitch perfect acids. Long, lingering delightfully tart finish. So easy to drink (12.8% alc) and ideally enjoyed with dinner. Honestly, this reminds me of the Niellon 2014 Chassagne Montrachet Clos St. Jean had recently…
It’s hard not to get excited about this wine given the modest pedigree and pricing – and to be sure, this is not the last word on depth, elegance and complexity in chardonnay – but I’d love to place this blind in a good line up of white burgs. I bet it wildly over-performs. I haven’t had any vintages post-2012, but I can vouch whole-heartedly for the 2008-2012 quintet.