Our Nebbiolo group formed through the Vinous forum put together a vertical of Vajra Bricco delle Viole. I got in touch with their winemaker Giuseppe Vaira and it turned out that he was available in New York City on Sunday, August 18th, and most of our group could make that date. We were pleased that their US rep Kevin Natoli was also able to join us.
Working with the people at Fausto was a real pleasure. The food and service were perfect. If you haven’t been, go!
Photos and more details can be found on my website.
Champagne
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NV Agrapart & Fils Champagne Les 7 Crus Brut - France, Champagne
[Bottled May 2017. Disgorged April 2019. Gift from the restaurant.] Complex yeasty nose. Long with delicious citrus complexity. Impressive. (93 pts.)
Sparkling Rose
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NV G.D. Vajra N.S. della Neve - Italy, Piedmont, Vino da Tavola
[Disgorged 22 September 2011. Sparkling rose from 50% Nebbiolo and 50% Pinot Nero.] This has aged well. Smoky cherry nose. Juicy complex strawberries. Tasty. (92 pts.)
Flight One: 20th Century Bricco delle Viole
These wines were made by the winery’s founder, Aldo Vaira (Giuseppe’s father). They have aged beautifully. Tasted around 7pm.
This flight and the N.S. della Neve were served with an antipasto consisting of Suppli (mozzarella rice balls in tomato sauce), Pork Meatballs in a broccoli rabe pesto, Panzanella (chopped salad of soaked stale bread, onions and tomatoes).
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1987 G.D. Vajra Barbera d’Alba Riserva Bricco delle Viole - Italy, Piedmont, Alba, Barbera d’Alba
[Double decanted at 11am.] Amazing. A 32 year old Barbera. Had a funky smell on decanting, but that blew off by the time we drank it (around 7pm). Smoky nose of black berries and spice. Juicy in the mouth. A little bitterness on the finish, but long and complex. Amazing. (92 pts.) -
1989 G.D. Vajra Barolo Bricco delle Viole - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
[Double decanted at 11am.] Floral nose of red and black fruit and licorice and tar. Gorgeous and expansive in the mouth. Tannins still present, but those classic 1989 appealing tannins. Maybe the WOTN. (95 pts.) -
1997 G.D. Vajra Barolo Bricco delle Viole - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
[Double decanted at 11am.] Tart cherry nose. Thick sour cherry in the mouth. Juicy, tannic, young. Tasty cherries. Needs 5 years. (93 pts.)
Flight Two: 2004-2008 Bricco delle Viole
These wines were made by the winery’s founder, Aldo Vaira (Giuseppe’s father). I expect these to give a great deal of pleasure for decades to come. Tasted around 8pm.
This flight served with three pasta dishes:
Whole Wheat Chitarra under Mixed Mushrooms, Parmesan, & Egg.
Garganelli under Veal Bolognese, Wild Arugula, Piave Vecchio.
Orecchiette under Fennel Braised Pork, Wilted Greens, Parmesan.
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2004 G.D. Vajra Barolo Bricco delle Viole - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
[Double decanted at 11am.] Beautiful nose of violets, cherries, and licorice. Rich and complex. A stunning young wine with a long future. Loads of fierce tannins and ripe fruit. Needs at least another decade to resolve and show its full potential. 95–? (95 pts.) -
2006 G.D. Vajra Barolo Bricco delle Viole - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
[Double decanted at 9:30am.] Spiced cherry nose. Juicy, ripe, complex. Spicy and a bit medicinal at this stage. Seems a bit over-ripe at this point, but I think it just needs 5-10 years to mature and integrate. 92-94. (93 pts.) -
2008 G.D. Vajra Barolo Bricco delle Viole - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
[Double decanted at 1:30pm.] Muted smoky cherry nose Big rich juicy. A beautiful wine. I’m consistently amazed at how well these 2008 continue to show. 93–95 (94 pts.)
Flight Three: 2009-2011 Bricco delle Viole
I believe these wines were also made by the winery’s founder, Aldo Vaira. Giuseppe graduated from school in 2009, so I think he was beginning to play a significant role in the winemaking. Tasted around 9pm.
This flight and the next one served with three main dishes:
Roast Chicken with Butter Beans, Tuscan Kale, Leek, & Chicken Sausage.
Lamb Loin Chop with Garlic Puree, Swiss Chard, & Shallots.
Roast Eggplant filled with Ricotta, Cherry Tomato, Garlic Confit, Aged Balsamic.
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2009 G.D. Vajra Barolo Bricco delle Viole - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
[Magnum. Double decanted at 5pm.] Bright cherry nose. Licorice, plums. Tasty and ready to go, but should hold for a decade or so. (90 pts.) -
2010 G.D. Vajra Barolo Bricco delle Viole - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
[Double decanted at 11am.] Gorgeous perfume. Long and complex. Sweet tannins. Delicate and lovely. I don’t think this is a super-long ager, but it is so gorgeous I would not blame anyone for dinking this over the next 10 years or so. (94 pts.) -
2011 G.D. Vajra Barolo Bricco delle Viole - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
[Double decanted at 11am.] Sweet blackberry nose. Ripe plums. A joy to drink now. Lots of fruit and licorice. 92-93 (92 pts.)
Flight Four: 2012-2015 Bricco delle Viole
These wines were made by Giuseppe Vaira. Tasted around 9:30pm. See Flight Three for the food.
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2012 G.D. Vajra Barolo Bricco delle Viole - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
[Double decanted at 1:30pm.] Lovely floral nose. Juicy and elegant. Medium length and medium tannins. Drink over the next 10 years. (91 pts.) -
2013 G.D. Vajra Barolo Bricco delle Viole - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
[Double decanted at 12:30pm.] Beautiful floral nose. Loads of violets and elegant fruit in the mouth. Continues to open. A gorgeous, complex wine to drink over the next 20 or more years, though it will need a good decant until 2030 or so. (95 pts.) -
2015 G.D. Vajra Barolo Bricco delle Viole - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
[Double decanted at 5pm.] Straight from the winery. Rich nose of meat and black fruits. Medium length. Hard to judge so young. So delicious now, but needs time. 92-94 (93 pts.)
1964 Franco Fiorina Barolo
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1964 Franco Fiorina Barolo - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
[Gift from Joe. He knew that Giuseppe loves this old producer. Pop and pour.] Still tight. Needs a lot of air. Sour cherries and some turpentine. Interesting, but hard to judge such an old wine after so many young ones. 92-?? (92 pts.)
These terrific wines go from strength to strength. Still a terrific value in classic single-vineyard Barolo. Stock your cellar!
The winery’s website says “Wines that do not need to talk out loud or flex their muscles. We ask them to touch the hearts of all.” I think that is an accurate description of their flagship Barolo from Bricco delle Viole.