A Toronto Saturday night: Italian reds & other delights

I had a group of the Toronto crew over to my place this past Saturday for a quasi-pot luck dinner and wine. There was no theme to the wines, but as people started to declare wines a natural theme emerged. The reds were almost exclusively Italian and primarily Tuscan: a nice flight of Merlot, a few Sangiovese, a Barolo, a Cab Franc… plus a blind Bordeaux thrown into the mix.

There were eight of us in total, plus two others who were only able to stay for the first hour. For food we had a ton of cheese, about 60 oysters, seafood salad, sweet potato salad, roasted potatoes, and then we BBQed beef burgers with truffle and various sausages.

Here’s the full lineup from last night:

2014 Laieta Gran Reserva Brut Nature
2014 Caballo Loco Grand Cru Brut Nature
2008 Philipponnat Blanc de Noirs Brut
1990 Bollinger Grande Année

The 1990 Bolly was superb. Full of life and very fresh, with just a gorgeous mix of fruit, yeast and caramel. My WOTN.
2018 Ridge Adelaida Vineyard
2010 William Fevre Chablis 1er Cru Vaulorent - Magnum

The Ridge was served blind and no one came very close to identifying it. One person got the Roussanne in the blend, and a few figured it was new world, but that’s about it. It’s a very good, if very young, wine and I’ll be interested to see how it evolves in a year or two.

Joel Singer already commented on the Fevre Chablis in a separate Vaulorent thread here.

2000 Chateau Chasse-Spleen
1997 Podere Poggio Scalette Il Carbonaione - Magnum
2003 Il Poggione Brunello du Montalcino Reserva Vigna Paganelli - Magnum
2004 Sandrone Barolo Cannubi Boschis - Magnum
2007 Le Macchiole Paleo

The Carbonaione was delicious. Super fresh and not showing its age at all. The BdM and Barolo also showed very well. All at or near peak. The 2007 Paleo Rosso was a tannic beast (and was still a monster 24 hours later when I revisited it). If you have the '07 Paleo, bury it for at least 3 or 4 more years.

2008 San Giusto a Rentennano La Ricolma
2011 Petrolo Galatrona
2009 Podere Poggio Scalette Piantonaia
2016 Podere Poggio Scalette Piantonaia

As part of the Merlot flight, we opened the contentious 2016 Poggio Scalette Piantonaia – the wine that Galloni called “abysmal” and “horrendous” and scored 50 points, the lowest score he’s ever given a wine (the next lowest score he’s given is 60 points).

We opened the 2016 Piantonaia alongside the 2009 and the consensus was unanimous. The 2009 was clearly the better wine, with excellent structure and depth. For a number of us, it was one of the top 2 reds we drank last night. As for the 2016, it was very good but lacked the gravitas of the 2009. It was lighter, lacking the tannins of the 09, and more fruit forward. Of course it was very young, but I don’t think it will improve considerably with age. It was a very enjoyable, early drinking vintage of Piantonaia. We all scored it somewhere between 88-90 points. Either Galloni tasted two faulty bottles, or his palate was faulty that day.

The Ricolma and Galatrona were both very good, albeit young. They could use more time.

2008 Domaine Huet Vouvray Moelleux 1ère Trie Le Mont
NV Equipo Navazos Manzanilla de Sanlúcar de Barrameda La Bota de Palo Cortado “Bota Punta” Nº 48

I barely recall the Vouvray. We started the night at 6 pm and by the time we got to the Vouvray it was after 1 am. But I do recall the Sherry that I pulled from my cellar at 1 am. The colour was deep bronze or mahogany, and the palate was full of hazelnut, brown sugar, saline and spice. Just terrific, and a fine way to wrap up the evening around 1:30 am.

well done on your parallel dinner to ours, Andrew, and fine notes here, thanks. Really interesting to see your gang’s take on the 16 Piantonaia. Had the Paleo 09 and 10 two and a half years ago and both showed pretty nicely:

"2009 Le Macchiole Paleo

Colin and his friend George took the opportunity to bring us a mini-vertical of this very interesting super-tuscan, which is 100% Cab Franc (!) This one has rich cherry and plum chocolate cake, a lot of pure cherry scents. There is a nice bitter, middle to this wine which I personally like, and the hallmark green pepper and olive notes, but with a warming ripeness. You can get to CF here for sure.

2010 Le Macchiole Paleo

This is settled (we decanted this for an hour at my reco) with darker fruit—more plummy and boysenberry. Rounder and a little deeper, there’s a warmth to this too, hint of green and black pepper, but also some soy sauce and tea notes on the aftertaste. More going on, but harder to pick out CF. Regardless, a great example of how different vintages can affect a wine’s presentation. I think I preferred this as a wine by a hair over the 09."

How was the Philipponnat? A house I admit I have had a hard time grokking.

Kwa Heri,

Mike

I’ve had a few bottles of the 08 Blanc de Noirs and have enjoyed them but haven’t been wowed. On the other hand, I could drink the Clos des Goisses all day, every day. So much depth and complexity. One of my notes on the 2000 Clos des Goisses said “rich but ethereal”. I’ve gone through a dozen bottles of the 2000 and I’m down to my last bottle of 2004.

Incredible line up guys! Top notch work, and notes.

That is a mountain of different wine!

It was an amazing night. You are a gracious and generous host. I would particularly like to thank you for opening the magnum of 2004 Sandrone Barolo Cannubi Boschis. While that bottle will go for a long time, it already offers beautiful balance and tremendous depth of flavour. A few dinners ago I opened a 1996 Sandrone Le Vigne, which was quite good, but I’m convinced the 2004 Cannubi has greater depth.

I was sad to have missed this one, Andrew. Sounds like you had a great time and a nice lineup.