Family is in town, so it seemed like a good excuse to open wines. I enjoyed the '03 with my brother, sitting around for a few hours before going for a NYD constitutional in Tilden Park in Berkeley. It was pretty darn nice, and inspired me to open another Montmains from a good vintage to compare. So the next night we had the '04 at a restaurant in the city (Zazie).
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2003 François Raveneau Chablis 1er Cru Montmains - France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis 1er Cru (1/1/2020)
Youthful pale greenish yellow. Somewhat reticent nose that has some florals and oyster shell. On the palate there is very mild lemon chiffon cake flavored with understated créme Chantilly. There is even a hint of well rinsed oyster shell. This was quite enjoyably sipped over the course of a few hours on a New Year’s Day afternoon accompanying some cheap caviar substitute (bowfin). On one hand the wine is a massive disappointment being Raveneau. On the other, it’s quite solid, given its a 2003, and is likely to stay on this plateau for some time, though admittedly well below the highest peaks. Excellent. (90 pts.) -
2004 François Raveneau Chablis 1er Cru Montmains - France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis 1er Cru (1/2/2020)
Pale greenish yellow color. Generous flowers, oyster shell and fresh citrus pith on the nose. Balanced salinity, mineral, fruit with a whisper of vanilla on the palate. The taste lingers on the palate, reminding one sort of the way the Clos lingers, but obviously not unending. Quite a good showing. This is the way a Mont Mains should taste. Excellent. (92 pts.)