Prieure-Roch and Bernstein

I can understand somewhat why the market has priced Ramonet, Roumier, and others highly but I don’t think I have ever read a strongly favorable note on either Bernstein or Prieur-Roch. Other than “because,” why are both so damned expensive—way beyond some highly touted domaines? Do people buy them? Don’t think I have actually ever seen an Olivier Bernstein note, come to think of it . . .

Never had a Burgundy from Oliver Bernstein. Think I had one from Prieur-Roch many years ago - seem to remember liking it. Have more Ramonet than any other white Burgundy and love their reds.

The 2014 Ladoix Le Cloud entry level red Burgundy of Prieuré Roch. Was highly aromatic, mouthfilling and bursting on the palate with wild pure pinot fruit. Very exciting, different and delicious!!

proprietor henri roch, nephew of lalou bize leroy, died in 2018. this seemingly impacted global market price for prieure roch wines. for years they were much cheaper in the states than in france.

I received an Olivier Bernstein wine in a trade a few years ago - not anything of significant value on my part, so I was happy to try something new. It was…not my style. Very oaky and extracted without enough acidity for me. No doubt some people like that style. I have never taken note of Bernstein prices, and didn’t realize they were high. I can’t explain that.

I’ve never liked Prieuré Roch.

Roch has the connection to Leroy, which plays a meaningful factor in the wine’s popularity. Too unusual and funky for my tastes.

Bernstein has a high retail price point, but usually doesn’t trade all that well at auction. They are a Wilson Daniels producer, and I believe allocations of other W-D producers (e.g., DRC) require some support of Bernstein. The wines are very modern in styling.

Not sure about the Bernstein, but speaking of Prieur-Roch, those wines are selling very well in the Chinese market, one reason being the connection with Domaine Leroy, anything relates to that name sells. The other reason is that it seems like the Chinese market is going after the Leroy style stem inclusion aroma. Lots of whole bunch fermentation style producers are getting huge attention in China. Recently just saw a bottle of Bizot 2017 VR village went for 500$, people want it not for scarcity but for its specific stem aroma.

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It is not so much the connection with Leroy, as the connection with DRC, as he was co-director and one of the signatories on the bottles.

The Priuré-Roch wines can be brilliant, and sometimes very reminiscent of DRC - last Spring, I was poured a 2005 P-R Suchots and called it as 2005 DRC RSV. They can also be train wrecks, of course, especially when they begin to put air miles on the clock. They have a policy of never receiving any journalists, even in a personal capacity for private interest, so I have never been able to visit.

Aside from their both being expensive, I wouldn’t place Bernstein’s wines in the same category, as the project is quite different.

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I agree I have had some stunning Priuré-Roch wines. I personally don’t feel the Grand Crus reflect their terrior enough to pay the obscene prices they now sell for. And BTW these prices have been this way for the last few years after an importer switch and have not really changed since the death of the owner.

Prieur-Roch, due to the passing of Henri Roch. I attended an Olivier Bernstein wine dinner. He pays for the fruit up front and also try to buy vineyards. I often compare to Le Moine but the prices are almost 3X. His style is becoming more elegant.

the suchots parcel is leased from drc, no?

Wilson-Daniels reps Olivier Bernstein. I think that makes it expensive.

It was expensive before WD, like when Perrot-Minot appeared on scene at stratospheric prices from Martine’s. Much like P-M I think Bernstein is starting to use less new oak and make more transparent wines to site.

I’ve had many/several from both producers, none of which I’ve found of interest. Olivier Bernstein contacted a friend in Manila (whose family has a sizeable wine distribution business) and sent them many sample bottles - all of which we tried out over a long lunch. Nothing objectionable; but nothing interesting; and, at their indicative prices, being relatively unknown at the time, my friend decided to give it a pass. We all concurred.

Interesting comments on Bernstein. A few years back I attended a Wilson Daniels event featuring Oliver and his wines and found the wines to be very good to excellent but expensive. I can’t be sure of the vintages but believe they were 2011 and 2012. My recollection is that Bernstein told us that he purchases fruit at high prices in advance so that he has control of the grape growing and can reduce yields as needed. I believe that the high prices reflect his large per ton upfront grape costs (although I have no more insight than what we were told). Although somewhat oaky when young, I’ve heard that they age well and become less oaky with time in the bottle. Since I’ve never tried an older Bernstein wine I don’t know if that is correct. I’d love to hear comments from those who have tried older examples to hear what people think about them.

Joel,

What you reference is probably spot on…Bernstein is too new for collectors to have confidence in oak integration 20 years on…same thing happened when Dominique Laurent, Dugat-Py, Perrot-Minot and others came on the scene, I remember when Denis Mortet was thought of as heavy handed on oak.

Time will tell, but Tanzer is very positive on most recent vintages, 15 &16.

Mortet did extract heavily, but after his sad 2005 death, son took over.

We sold Mortet back then, thru Martine’s…his rep was lots of new oak from 1996 vintage we sold til 2004. Arnaud has his own style he has imparted, but his father was branded over oaked and over extracted as you reference Alan.

The Priuré-Roch wines can be erratic, but when they are on they are seriously good.

Bernstein rents and farms the land so he’s paying a premium regardless of how much fruit he yields. We recently had dinner with him and his wines showed very well. Certainly very high quality though the pricing is still out of whack especially for a newer producer without a track record. But taking price out of the equation, he’s making some very nice wines and the oak in his more recent releases is more restrained.