In connection with the earlier thread about BYOB in Japan, remembering what one of my Tokyo-based Japanese wino friends told me, it naturally helps being a regular/good customer (i.e., make it worth their while to allow one to BYOB; that way, everybody’s happy), and knowing the restaurant’s chef and/or owner - though one must always be mindful not to abuse the privilege. Ordering from the wine/saké list every so often doesn’t hurt either. These rules, to my mind, would apply pretty much anywhere.
One such example in Japan was a little over a year ago at Oshino Yashima (4667 Uchino, Oshino-mura, Minamutsuru-gun 401-0512, Yamanashi Prefecture) around the environs of Mt. Fuji - a fine restaurant owned by a friend, chef Hiroyoshi Amano (“Hiro-san”), whom I met some years ago through mutual friend, Keiichi Miki. I had been in Tokyo for a series of meetings; after which, Keiichi picked me up from my hotel; and, after a light(ish) sushi lunch in his go-to neighbourhood restaurant in Shibuya, we headed off to his cabin around the Mt. Fuji area, a short walk from Lake Yamanaka. We were 5 in all for a kaiseki dinner that evening, in one of the private rooms of Oshino Yashima.
Well-chilled and already waiting for us was a magnum of 1989 Champagne Alain Robert Le Mesnil Blanc de Blancs, courtesy of Ernie (who arrived a few minutes later) - Difficult to describe; but it struck me as having the rich depth of a vintage Krug, yet more graceful and lighter footed. Very complex. Wonderful bubbly.
Appetiser of a deep-fried “special clam” (that’s literally what they told me it was) with ginko nuts, with an intensely pink, citrusy salt on the side.
Chef Hiro-san. I had previously enjoyed a kaiseki dinner by him in Manila. he flew in all the ingredients, including a lot of pairing saké.
He explained each dish in Japanese, which Keiichi; and, at times, Ernie, would translate for me. Unfortunately, the names of the ingredients were many and unfamiliar to me; that, and considering all we drank, made it impossible for me to recall (so please bear with me).
If I had to encapsulate Hiro’s cooking style in a word, it would be “pure”.
What reminded me of Emperor’s Soup, featuring the in-season fish and mushroom. Superb.
With this, Hiro served (from his saké list) this deep, fullish-bodied junmai ginjo, which I thought was the night’s pairing. I continued with it throughout the evening with the other fish dishes as well.
With the following dishes, the evening’s white was poured: a deliciously ripe, round, somewhat pillowy, yet very well-balanced 1990 Domaine de Comtes Lafon Meursault-Charmes, courtesy of Honjo-san. Notably harmonious, and seamless.
The sashimi course.
Perfectly fresh, fat & delicately smokey was the Grilled Lobster. The sides of miso-topped mochi, apricot & peanuts were sublime foils. With this dish, the above-depicted 1990 Comtes Lafon Meursault-Charmes paired well.
Of course, there simply had to be some succulent wagyu; the asparagus side lending a bit of fresh lift.
With the wagyu, a 1991 Chapoutier Côte Rôtie La Mordorée, courtesy of Honjo-san - silken, discreet pepper and dried herbs in the ripe fruit. Good lift and depth. Very elegant.
1990 Château La Mission Haut Brion, courtesy of Keiichi-san - decidedly ripe (the vintage, of course), comfortably warming, smooth, yet robust. Nice earthiness in the solid ripe dark fruit. Notable heft (especially in the middle), structure, general palate-presence, and length.
The savory courses ended with this delectable traditional trio.
Kanpai from Keiichi-san & Honjo-san!
Cheers from Ernie & Yumiko Singer!
The 4 boys (photo by Yumiko-san).
For the indulgent, creamy dessert…
…1949 Toro Albalá Don PX, a gift to me from Don Clem a few years ago. Lovely match - credit to Hiro-san for making such a well-paired dessert for this. This was the only one of the three bottles I brought along that was opened; so I left the other two with Hiro-san for he and the boys to enjoy some other time.
Hiro-san is deeply into whisky (and visits Scotland every so often). He shared this lovely one with us - perfect for me, as I’d sneak out for a smoke in the cold outdoor smoking area once in a while. We, thereafter, moved to another private room where Hiro-san had set up with an impressive array of Japanese whiskies. My memory gets very hazy after that.
Suffice it to state that Keiichi had to call a driver service as neither of us were in any shape to drive back to his cabin. We woke up with hangovers, and…long story short, I almost missed my flight back to Manila the next afternoon. Now that’s a fine night indeed!