Two winners last night, classically styled, one with a haunting fragrance of anise, exotic spices, leather, and delicate floral notes, the other one with a seemingly endless spicy finish influenced by the judicious use of new oak.
Except, of course, the unobtrusive sweet oak/vanilla note of the Léoville Barton, both wines are more similar on the palate than one might think. Both wines are packed with energy and show great precision and surprising freshness, great earthy minerality, and an excellent acid backbone. On the palate, dark berries, black and red fruits, licorice, some leather and savory, spicy notes, especially anise. As for the fruit, Morello cherry fruit clearly dominates on both wines, with a lovely touch of bitter chocolate and a hint of cinnamon…
Two wines that leaves you craving for more, a sheer delight from the first to the last sip.
We had separate glasses for each wine and long after the last sip was gone, I sniffed once more at the two empty glasses. Surprise, surprise! The Marquis d’Aligre still showed the full potential of its fragrance, while most of the Barton’s fragrance was gone.
Thanks for the note. I think a takeaway for me is the Leoville might be a good entry wine to Bordeaux for people (like me about 10 years ago) who are used to and like some of the oak/vanilla Napa cabs and blends. I loved the first Leoville I had (I think it was a 2006).
Interesting that you mention the 2006, Alex. The Grand Vin of the Château hardly ever disappoints and the 2006 is no exception. Quite the contrary. For me, the 2006 is even the most sophisticated Léoville Barton I’ve drank in recent years.
Yes, these wines are outstanding, Alex, and I have the feeling that the great tension of both wines is even strengthened when drinking them side by side…
Btw, for those who are interested, both wines have 12,5% alcohol.
Great notes, Rudi! I’m pleased your first experience of a mature BAMA was a success! Quite a baptism of fire, too, with LB 96, especially considering that today, one is probably double the price of the other.
A great success, Julian, and indeed, prices for Bel Air-Marquis d’Aligre are more than reasonable for the superior quality you get. Apparently, Monsieur Boyer is not avaricious.
Finally tries the 1995 and 1996 BAMA side by side
I have enjoyed several bottles of each and never figured out which one I preferred
Now drinking both at the same time I still think they are equally good
1996 is more elegant and balanced
1995 is also in balance but with an appealing mystique spiciness that is very special
Both wines are screaming value. Incredible quality imo
Thanks to Alfert and Laurent
We had the 1996 BAMdA last night and tonight. Many reviews have been glowing, as in the OP above, others less so for this particular vintage.
It was my first BAMdA, as several of the bottles I bought on pre-arrival are being held by the merchant hoping for tariff relief before bringing them over, and others I bought are much younger. So this seemed like the best place to start, notwithstanding its reputation for bottle variation.
Decanted half the bottle for about five hours, immediately recorked the rest for night 2.
Bricked color from center to rim, which would normally be a concern but knowing the story here, wasn’t for me. Nothing held back on the nose, the wine is open and ready to go. Less unusual on the nose than I expected - very Bordeaux. On the palate, though, the early pick and lack of new oak showed some telltale characteristics, though just as fingerprints rather than as negatives. Almost like a blend with a dollop of Loire cab franc mixed in. But overall it lacked the presence I’d look for to call it a total success. Not from being young or closed, IMO, just from not having as much stuffing as a Margaux in this price range should (for my money).
Enjoyable and I’m glad I have additional vintages aging and on the way. For the price, though, I’d be mildly disappointed and not likely to seek out more (though not likely to refuse an offered glass either) if this were as good as the winery got. Knowing the reputation of this vintage, though, I expect the estate’s better-reputed vintages are a step up, and if so I’ll be happy with those purchases when the time comes to crack them open. I’m looking forward to continuing the exploration.
I’m with you, Dave…I had this wine last night - enjoyed it, but you nailed what it lacks - doesn’t have as much stuffing as a Margaux in this price range should have. I couldn’t put my finger on it, until I read your note, and it’s spot on. Nice wine, super ‘old school’ in so many ways, but needs a bit more oomph and presence.
I tasted the 1996 Barton en primeur, liked it enough to buy five cases. My notes say I paid $25.95 for them. They drank incredibly well young, so well that I drank most of them within five years. I still have a few halves left, and they are still showing well, but have not evolved as quickly as I would have expected.
I wholeheartedly agree. I’ve got 2 left from a case purchased on release from K&L, and all have been excellent. The last one was consumed in 2020 and it seemed to be at another level, so I’m holding the last 2.
Any experience with the 2000? I have a case and have yet to crack it open.
