I had planned on trying the Cuvée JG with a normal SM 2001, but the bottle of the latter was corked, so we had a Domaine de Chevalier instead. I opened them at the same time and decanted them.
Domaine de Chevalier 2001
One of my favourite vintages of DdeC, better IMO than the 00s I’ve had so far, this was like all the others I’ve tried. Subtle aromas of red berries, blackcurrant, quite a lot of gravel and tobacco, then an attack which is still bright - quite rich notes of blackcurrant, with a soft, plump middle section of wild strawberry and blackberry, framed by a subtle, earthy structure, just enough to keep the fruit in check without overcoming it, and a long, persistent finish. A lovely, perfectly balanced wine, with many years still to go.
Cuvée Jean Gautreau - Sociando-Mallet 2001
Much more expressive, the aromas of violet, cassis and plum are accompanied by Pauillac-like cedar and a little mint. The attack is tight, finely chiseled, with concentrated notes of plum and blackberry, before a middle section of much deeper blackcurrant, very Pauillac, then a lighter, Margaux-like finish, featuring the same wonderful wafts of raspberry that the last bottle had shown. Having had a normal SM 01 only recently, it’s easy to see where this is better - delicious though the normal one is, the JG just has more of everything, while retaining the same classic balance and elegance. It doesn’t really correspond to the norms of other wines, hence my references to a bit of Pauillac her and a touch of Margaux there, but that’s the impression it gave me.
We started with the DdeC, because I had a sneaking suspicion of how things would turn out, finishing half the bottle before getting into the JG. Side by side, there was simply no comparison. The Chevalier, which had wowed and charmed us with its soft, subtle fruit, suddenly tasted rather bland faced with the more intense blackcurrant and those wafts of raspberry. So they’re both wonderful wines, but the Cuvée Jean Gautreau is on another level.