A truly fantastic, and very open, complex wine. So much better, right now, than it’s 2015 sibling.
Black olives, tapenade
Brine, oyster shells
Humus, rich forest floor
Incredibly fragrant
Black pepper spice
Red citrus fruits
Herbal, herbaceous
Mineral driven
Ferrous metal
Pittsburg-style ribeye
Cured meats
Green bell pepper rind
So fresh
Soil to glass transfer
A maestro (Marcel)
(96 pts.)
PS. This 2014, now the third bottle I have opened, is one of the more enjoyable young Juges that I have had, like 2011. I expect more long-term from vintages like 2013 and 2010, but amazing how complex this young Juge is.
I opened one in December and it did start to close up about 60-90m after pouring. Great experience though. My note:
An arresting nose: herbaceous funk, barbecued pork, and a light touch of soil; then palpable power and concentration wrapped around a hidden core of red fruit; there is weight and impact but it’s delivered with delicacy and poise; the whole thing starts to recede behind a wall of furry tannin about an hour in but no regrets opening this bottle at this point in its life - my next visit will be in 8 years; very good minus with upside
Was reflecting this morning on the Juge. Really a unique, transparent, expressive display of Cornas. So different than most other producers, with the exception of Allemand. Both more on the - and I generally do not like using this expression - Burgundian style of Cornas. This month I have opened Gonon, Gilles, Rousset, Levet and some other Cali syrahs, none compare to this Juge. Only Levet compares on the level of distinction, but Juge is a cut above. A shame not to see this producer, his style, continue. Last of a generation. Makes popping a bottle difficult, but it really should not be. My sister came over last night for a family weekend, with her husband and older son that is quite the foodie, and we popped bottles with no rhyme or reason. My sister asked for something with black olives, we checked out the Rhones, and just grabbed the Juge without thinking. I just wanted her to try it. That’s how it should be.
Except almost no one is able to source them at that price after the 2012 vintage. In 2013 I tried my typical retailers, including Flatiron where I got the 2012- no one I contacted was getting any. In 2014 I set wine-searcher watches, and all I found was at very inflated prices. I stopped trying after that.
I’ll admit, I got lucky. Got turned onto this wine around the 2007 vintage and got an allocation of a case up to 2014, minus the 2013 blip. And then Fu arrived. My 2015 dropped to a sixer plus a Maggie. These wines are treasures.
Nah, man. I’m a Johnny Come Lately. Started with 2007, 2010 is an amazing vintage. Was impossible to source before then while living in FL until the shipping laws changed.
I’ve been fortunate to taste quite a few 2014 N. Rhône’s, including Allemand Reynard, and found them all to be wonderfully perfumed and pure expressions of Syrah that are already drinking well. I’ve concluded that the critics only like big tannic vintages.