I am fortunate to have an onsite cellar. As the designated shopper / supply runner for the family and member of a high-risk demographic I feel that any bottle I open could be my last, so it’s no holds barred seven nights a week. Last night’s bottle - served with freezer-burned veggie burgers on wheat bread from the grill - was noteworthy. It really makes you wonder how they do this with just grapes.
2011 Jean-François Ganevat Côtes du Jura Les Chalasses Vieilles Vignes - France, Jura, Côtes du Jura (3/29/2020)
A “wow” wine but unconventional and perhaps not for everyone. Radiant gold color. Shy nose; a hint of florals. Intense concentration and texture on the palate from entry to finish. All the notes of fresh dekopon (“sumo” orange), including intense orange/orange oil, intense acidity, a strong sense of sweetness (though the wine may be dry), and some hints of overripeness. Moderate oxidative characteristics. No wood signature evident. This would seem to have a very long life ahead. I found the wine fascinating and unique; even stunning. My wife dumped her glass into mine and moved on.
Posted from CellarTracker
This is the chardonnay, right? Love Ganevat’s wines, but they are pricey now and harder to find.
Lovely note Joe. Love this getting harder to source producer. His wines are sure acid bombs. I love it. Stay healthy and keep drinking.
Tried this back in January, and agree…an amazing wine, as are most of the whites. Lots of depth, acid, and complexity. One of those wines that have concentration and backbone in spades but are also delicious, with no heaviness on the palate and always finishing clean.
Yes - here’s the importer write-up.
https://vosselections.com/product/cotes-du-jura-les-chalasses-vieilles-vignes/
100% Chardonnay. From vines planted in 1902 on gray marl. Les Chalasses is a specific vineyard site from which this old-vines cuvee derives. Yields are a miniscule 15HL/HA. This is Ganevat’s most powerful and longest aged white, and the last to be bottled. Ganevat first made this cuvée in 1999
Thanks for the note, and good to hear on the 11 Chalasses.
As a slight side note, opened '12 Marnes Bleues for the wife’s bday earlier this month. Was great but not wow.
Didn’t hit that top gear I expected this wine to reach when I went gaga over it a few years ago. Fantastic acid still, but not the degree of complexity I was hoping some age would begin putting on. We’ll wait a few more years before opening another.
Your post inspired me to open a 2011 Ganevat Les Chalasses Marnes Bleues Savignin. It was really super. Strong lemon oil and some umami notes with excellent acidity. I really like Ganevat wines and own a couple of cases but rarely remember or find the time to pop one. Very glad I did. Stay healthy everyone.
I shame I can’t find his wines that easily in Florida; I had the change to visit the winery and taste his wines (both negoce and domaine) with him. He opened a 1945 wine his grandfather had make. Amazing stuff.