We popped a lot of corks the second half of April on a variety of interesting and for the most part delicious wines. I’ve kept up with my resolution to post at least a few words on every bottle that isn’t flawed.
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2015 Domaine Florent Garaudet Monthélie Sous le Cellier - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Monthélie (4/30/2020)
First of a case for us, having loved previous vintages. Very expressive nose with honeysuckle, peaches and grapefruit. Feels great in the mouth and has good intensity. A touch of framing oak, nothing over the top at all, gives body and a sense of richness. After some air, the fatness of the vintage comes through. I gave this a quick decant before pouring, since I forgot to bring it out of the fridge ahead of time, but next time I think just pop and pour as it was firmer earlier in the drinking window. Excellent value and a serious Monthelie blanc. -
2001 Clos des Papes Châteauneuf-du-Pape - France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape (4/29/2020)
My last of a case purchased ages ago when I still like CdP. While I don’t dislike it now, it’s rarely what I want and I no longer buy it. Based on my last bottle, I gave this a short 30 minute decant before drinking and I think it benefited. There was a good deal of spice and moderate red fruit, good intensity. Structure was nicely proportioned, nothing sticking out. Hoped for, but didn’t get, a little more richness, even with air. I enjoyed it, though it got overwhelmed a little by the spices in our lamb meatballs. I would say it’s at or even a bit past peak, so drink up. -
2014 Enderle & Moll Pinot Noir Buntsandstein - Germany, Baden (4/29/2020)
Lone bottle of this in the cellar and getting an empty slot in the German section is very exciting, so we pulled it, unsure if we’d like it. After drinking it, I’m still unsure. Clay.fu says these are not natural wines per se, but I’ve always been told they were and have always thought of them that way. In the end, it smells and tastes natural, so I don’t guess the question matters that much. While there is some good acidity and interesting notes of bitter orange peel and some savory grilled notes along with underripe red fruit, my basic impression is of sourness. Sour is not necessarily a flaw for me - sour beers are the only ones I like - but it’s not exactly what I look for in red wine. The sourness combined with a flatness that I almost always get in natural red wines, plus the lighter body, made this less of a pleasure than I was hoping it might be. Could I have held it too long? Quite possible. Someone on IG said he likes E&M wines after 48-72 hours of air, which sounds crazy to me based on my previous experience. This bottle didn’t change much with air, so I would only think extended time open would flatten it further. Funny how this note is now longer than those I write on wines I love. Jonathan felt pretty much the same way. We finished the bottle, but are happy not to have more. Just not my thing. -
2017 Triennes Rosé - France, Provence, Mediterranée (4/29/2020)
I still have a few of the 2017s left, so we’re looking to drink them up before hitting more current vintage of this yearly purchase. Had a glass on the deck in the last few minutes of sun before a what promises to be a couple of days of steady rain. Bright and crisp, less watermelon than in previous vintages. Still vibrant, maybe a little less going on than in its prime. Always a very fun and easy-going rose, whether with food or without. -
2000 Domaine Macle Château-Chalon - France, Jura, Château-Chalon (4/28/2020)
Opened and shared a bit with the sauce for capon in morel vin jaune cream sauce, then drank most of the bottle. This is a profound wine, but you have to like the style. There’s plenty of nutty oxidation on the nose, borne out on the palate along with plenty of lacy acidity, some warm sourdough bread notes and little bits of sweetness (not from RS) around the edges. I love the texture of this wine and it gives the impression it could handle any food you threw at it. Giving it Morel & Vin Jaune cream sauce was a softball for sure. Just beautiful. Not a wine I’d want to drink every night, but very glad I have a few more. -
2016 Produttori del Barbaresco Langhe Nebbiolo - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Langhe DOC (4/28/2020)
Our last bottle from this case, which has been consistently very good. I think we drank at the right time and pace, as the last couple of bottles have shown less of the joyful youthful fruit that made it so special. It’s more about structure now, and still an enjoyable bottle. It got beat up a bit by the goat liver and bacon, so we drank most of the bottle after dinner. Nice nebbiolo character, kind of medium everything at this point. Except medium enjoyment. -
2008 Domaine William Fèvre Chablis Grand Cru Valmur - France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis Grand Cru (4/27/2020)
Opened after dinner, color was good, nose was completely bizarre. Not promoxed in any recognizable way, it smelled strongly of malted milk balls or maybe baby vomit. Hated it, couldn’t drink it. Put the cork back in in case it might blow off overnight. Will check in again. Night 2 - not better. That weird smell is still there. Jonathan also smells dish soap. Very strange. Not premoxed and I’ve had very good bottles of this wine, though it’s not even close to my favorite grand cru from Fevre. Oh well. NR (flawed) -
2014 Domaine Guillot-Broux Mâcon-Cruzille Les Perrières - France, Burgundy, Mâconnais, Mâcon-Cruzille (4/27/2020)
Perhaps this wine has integrated quite a bit since the other CT notes a few years ago, but the wine is not showing overly oaky right now. There is an oak element, along with quite a bit of ripe fruit, but there is also body and acidity which carries the wine just fine. It is also not new world - that’s an epithet that often gets used sloppily, when people don’t like a wine. There is a green background that is decidedly not new world. I think it’s about right for a modest 2014 from the south. -
2015 Emrich-Schönleber Monzinger Halenberg Riesling Großes Gewächs - Germany, Nahe (4/27/2020)
Haven’t opened one of these since March 2017, but heard they were starting to open up, so we pulled one for dinner with pork chops. Pulled the cork only about 20 minutes before serving. Drank from Zalto Universal glasses. This is about as good a young GG as I have ever had. The nose is gorgeous, beginning a touch tropical, then moving on to the darker side, with some savory notes accompanying the apricot and pastry that came out. The palate is complete, great attack, broad mid and extended, lingering finish. It opened up with air little by little, but I would not decant it - missing the initial stages would be a mistake. Open shows different aspects, and I think we mistakenly assume those are preferable. All aspects of this wine last night, from the first sip to the last, were delicious and delightful. The finish started to get more honeyed near the end, and even a few herbal notes joined in. The mouth feel was fantastic, the acid zinging on the tongue in complete harmony. Stunning bottle, very powerful, with plenty of upside. If you have a few of these, though, I’d drink one now. It would be a shame to miss this stage. The vintage gets criticized for being flabby sometimes. There is nothing flabby about this wine. -
2016 Andreas Laible Durbacher Plauelrain Scheurebe trocken - Germany, Baden (4/26/2020)
Really beautiful aromatics, maybe a little shrill right out of the gate, but opened up within about 20 minutes and lost that overly edgy edge. I said lemon curd on the nose, Jonathan said grapefruit curd. Then we argued over whether that’s a thing or not. Maybe a touch thin in the middle, not enough to be an issue. Lost verve for the last glass which we had after dinner, so I question the notes that say it needs 2-3 hours to open up. This had a savory quality that made me think of curry, though it wasn’t spicy per se. Probably I just didn’t have the right words to describe that aspect, which I liked. -
2016 Jose Manuel Rodriguez Decima Mencía Ribeira Sacra - Spain, Galicia, Ribeira Sacra (4/26/2020)
Had this with kebab take out because I couldn’t stand yet another Brana. Did not pay too much attention to it, seemed consistent with other bottles we’ve had - nice savory notes, a little spice, good character, medium weight. Jonathan thought it was slightly less enjoyable than previous bottles, with a thin fizziness, but I didn’t sense anything off. -
2010 La Rioja Alta Rioja Viña Ardanza Reserva, Selección Especial - Spain, La Rioja, La Rioja Alta, Rioja (4/25/2020)
Checked in on this again since there had been a discussion on the board about heavy dill pickle flavor. Though we got the dill notes, it was just part of the whole picture with plenty of blackberry and typical coconut oak, which was also not overdone. It’s drinking really well now. Probably some upside, but I don’t think it needs it so much. -
2015 Domaine Brana Irouléguy Harri Gorri Rosé - France, Southwest France, Pays Basque, Irouléguy (4/25/2020)
Close to finishing up the 2015s, which have been consistently enjoyable. So little variation in these, it’s always the same, which is fine by me. Coming to the end of this vintage they are a little less vibrant. -
2016 Domaine Brana Irouléguy Harri Gorri Rosé - France, Southwest France, Pays Basque, Irouléguy (4/25/2020)
Opened when the last bottle of the 2015 was seeming a little tired. Much more vibrant, though I’m not sure it’s as good a vintage as the '15. Still, can’t complain. There’s nothing quite like Brana rose for doing this job. -
NV Francis Boulard Champagne Grand Cru Extra Brut Grande Montagne - France, Champagne, Champagne Grand Cru (4/25/2020)
Same as previous bottles: Disgorged May 2015. Base vintage is 2010, plus 30% from '08 and '09. 60% pinot noir and 40% chardonnay. Dosage of 5g/L. This is a delicious and classy champagne, lots going on but still elegant. A complete champagne. I love the Murgiers, but this is a big step up. -
2010 A.J. Adam Hofberg Riesling Kabinett - Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer (4/24/2020)
With take out Vietnamese. Haven’t had one of these since 2017 and honestly don’t see all that much change since then. Maybe a little darker color and a few more mature notes coming out. Still quite compact, though with very nice flavor and aromatics. A darker flavor profile than some others from Adam. Good finish. It’s stylish. I didn’t pay as much attention as I probably should have - the food was very late and I was starving. It deserved better than the pounding I gave it. -
1994 Château Balestard La Tonnelle - France, Bordeaux, Libournais, St. Émilion Grand Cru (4/23/2020)
We acquired this wine with a cellar we bought, and this couldn’t be sent to auction so here it is with grassfed London Broil, low expectations. Serviceable claret and intact, a little boring with not a ton of character. Still I was happy enough to have it to wet my whistle during dinner. Sometimes it’s good to have a wine you don’t love - you drink less and enjoy the next better bottle even more. Worth saying that a recent bottle of the 1982 vintage of this wine was excellent. Can’t expect much from a '94. -
2002 Ratzenberger Bacharacher Wolfshöhle Riesling Großes Gewächs - Germany, Mittelrhein (4/23/2020)
Shared this with our Thursday Zoom tasting friend. As good a bottle of this wine as I’ve had. It’s developed and changed over the last couple of years, too. We used to call the “the world’s greatest adult lemonade” because the lemon and lemon zest flavors were so prominent. Those have settled a bit and I’m now getting a ton of slightly funky honey - fermented honey! I made that once for dressings, and this is exactly the same aroma. Terrific round and silky mouth feel, plenty of backbone, persistence, energy. It’s become stately rather than zingy. Finally starting to showing great maturity. When this vineyard is on, it’s stunning. FWIW, we’ve now drunk through more than a case and I’ve never had a bottle that showed anything like Keith Levenberg’s note from 2007. Of course, that was quite a while ago now! -
2010 Hervé Murat Bourgogne Hautes-Côtes de Nuits “Cuvee Marius” - France, Burgundy, Bourgogne Hautes-Côtes de Nuits (4/22/2020)
Our last bottle of this was green and weedy so we had a back up ready just in case. Needn’t have worried, this one was back to the good bottles. Bright red fruit, some baking spices, a little of the Fass signature green, but only a touch. No hard edges, more than sufficient acid to handle a good roast chicken with crispy skin. Don’t think there will be much improvement from here, but it should hold a while. Actually started shutting down in the glass just before we finished it. Not a screaming value, but not bad for the sub $40 price tag. A modest little burgundy with good breeding. -
2001 Poggio al Sole Chianti Classico Casasilia Riserva - Italy, Tuscany, Chianti, Chianti Classico DOCG (4/21/2020)
Very nice. Good dried leather, tobacco, some bright blackberry fruit not quite sweet - flavors are dried but the wine is not. Excellent structure, quite a nice wine. Purchased on release, first bottle from the case was shot, which was totally weird as shipping and storage were perfect. This one is ideal for age, though, so that must have been a failed cork situation. -
2013 2 Naturkinder Regent Grosse Wanderlust - Germany, Franken (4/21/2020)
We had our last bottle of this wine two years ago, give or take, and since it’s natural, I realized it might not last long. I needn’t have worried - this bottle was humming along just fine. I really like the fruit profile on this grape. It’s a step to the side of gamay and avoids the grapey quality I don’t like in gamay so much. The fruit is dark and there’s plenty of zippy acid. It would be good with food, but was also very happy as an after dinner bottle. -
NV Egly-Ouriet Champagne Grand Cru Brut Rosé - France, Champagne, Champagne Grand Cru (4/20/2020)
There’s not a lot I can say about this I haven’t said before. I love the scale, the depth, the complexity and power. It’s a big rose, no question, but light on its feet. Amazing quality of fruit. I’ve had dozens of other NV roses, and never found one I liked as much, let alone better. Everything else has something missing or just not as exciting. Today some chocolate notes are in evidence and the red fruit is spicy. -
NV Marc Hébrart Champagne Premier Cru Blanc de Blancs Brut - France, Champagne, Champagne Premier Cru (4/20/2020)
As always, a really nice bottle. It always seems a little different - tonight struck me as a little sweeter than in the past, but nothing to complain about. Very nice structure and energy, good clean fruit and a snappy finish. Could wish for a little more precision, but at this price it’s hardly a fault. -
2012 Domaine du Pelican Savagnin Arbois “Ouille” - France, Jura, Arbois (4/19/2020)
Drunk with Kunik cheese for lunch. As good a bottle of this wine as I have had. One recently made me think it might be on the decline, but this was vibrant and rich and mature. Great energy. There’s so much going on, with just a tiny hint of oxidation. Very aromatic, nice round mouth feel with plenty of acid. Did I mention energy? -
1956 Jean Bourdy Côtes du Jura Rouge - France, Jura, Côtes du Jura (4/18/2020)
Any time you open a bottle this old, it’s a gamble. The color and fill on this bottle were about as good as could be for its age and it came from a great cellar. That said, '56 is a terrible vintage pretty much everywhere. Opened this to go with capon in morel cream sauce with vin jaune. We figured it wouldn’t have the fruit to stand up to the sauce, but were willing to take that risk in order to celebrate the pairing. Opened this just about 20 minutes before pouring to let any malodorous notes dissipate. Cork came out clean with a ghetto Durand (ah-so plus wine key). Wine poured clear and lovely into Gabriel Glass Gold stems. Rim was totally bricked, with a vibrant red center. Gorgeous color. Nose had lots of strawberries, not outwardly earthy, but inwardly earthy - earth at its core, not outward smells of mushrooms or soil. No signs of madeirization at all. Absolutely acid driven, maintaining balance. Not tart and didn’t end sharp. It seemed to vibrate in my mouth. Oh so light on the tongue. This lasted every bit as long as we gave it, but it went down so prettily, it didn’t get more than 90 minutes or so. Yes, the morel sauce overwhelmed the fruit, but it loved the acid. -
2008 Antonio Vallana e Figlio Spanna Campi Raudii - Italy, Piedmont, Northern Piedmont, Colline Novaresi (4/18/2020)
Our first of the 2008s over Zoom after dinner. This wine is a stellar QPR, outperforms it’s ridiculously low price point. I think it’s got more class and depth than the Gattinara, which I also love and which costs $10 more. The 2008 is markedly younger than the '07, but has more overt and accessible fruit. More fruity fruit, as Jonathan says. What a crazy steal at under $20. -
2009 Domaine Macle Côtes du Jura - France, Jura, Côtes du Jura (4/18/2020)
Half of this went in the capon with morel cream sauce, the rest we drank over 2 days. At first thought it was corked, as that oxidative nose is so hard to judge upon first opening. After a bit all was well. insistent notes of honey and sun warmed cedar. Not a fruity wine at all, you have to come at it from a totally different standpoint, almost like sherry. It’s not a wine for everyone, and it misses the Szechuan food we usually throw at it. Was very good with the capon, though understandably outclassed by its big brother, the Chateau Chalone we also drank. -
2015 Weltner Villsenah - Germany, Franken (4/18/2020)
Drank this off and on over the course of a marathon cooking afternoon. Very enjoyable, mineral driven but with plenty of happy dancing fruit and some fresh herbal notes. Quite aromatic, not flabby at all. Wish I’d bought more of these. Goes well with food, but was a really nice playing around in the kitchen wine as well. -
2015 Jean Foillard Morgon Côte du Py - France, Burgundy, Beaujolais, Morgon (4/16/2020)
Nicely expressive for its age with typical crunchy, brambly red fruit. Not grape-y in the way some young gamay can be. Proper weight and structure, fleshed out as it opened. Right on point, will probably improve for another couple of years around the edges, but perfectly fine to drink now. Would make a good pairing with pretty much any meaty dish, especially with mushrooms or root vegetables alongside. Well balanced. -
2018 Raul Pérez Rías Baixas Atalier a cruz das ánimas - Spain, Galicia, Rías Baixas (4/16/2020)
Consistent with previous bottles, highly aromatic - white flowers, apricots, pastry, a little hint of the ocean. Plenty of acid to carry a nicely fleshed out body with plenty going on. Such a fun wine to drink, great with cheese, never disappoints when you’re in the mood for something that pleases both nose and mouth. Could stand to be a bit more precise, but I really can’t complain since it’s a total pleasure. Makes me very sad we probably won’t be able to make it to Galicia for our annual trip this year. -
2012 Hervé Murat Beaune 1er Cru Les Tuvilains - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Beaune 1er Cru (4/15/2020)
Opened after dinner, drank slowly. Both typical beaune and typical Fass - fruit was present but a little green. Austere and grippy in mid to begin. Had some good weight to it, got more rounded with air, though it lost some freshness. Maybe a 30 min decant next bottle to come into better balance? Or try with food. I liked the slightl Ludens cough drop thing it had going on. Expected more from a 2012. Have to remember that Lyle prefers under ripe fruit on his reds, at least in Burgundy and Germany. -
2014 Weingut Battenfeld-Spanier Kirchenstück Riesling Großes Gewächs - Germany, Rheinhessen (4/15/2020)
First bottle of this wine since purchasing on release. The nose was quite forward with white peaches, some lemon and lemon zest, a little savory herb quality maybe sage? Also signature cherries. The mid had good depth, which got even better with some air and took on depth and complexity. The finish was the only real disappointment - dull and flat, didn’t really improve with air. Fortunately, food filled in the dullness on the end, so it wasn’t even noticeable until we were done with the pork. Picked up the fennel from the pork really well. Perhaps a few more years will improve it? Not sure. Less serious than other GGs I’ve had from HO. -
2015 Weingut Keller Riesling von der Fels - Germany, Rheinhessen (4/14/2020)
This has really upped its game in the last year or so, developing a richness in the mid-palate and a depth that it’s bright but compact and linear youth did not have. Gorgeous fruit and flowers, just starting to show some creaminess. Very clear and precise finish. The '15 shows the promise to eventually eclipse the great '04, which to date is the best VdF I have had. -
2011 Raul Pérez Vino de la Tierra de Castilla y León Rara Avis - Spain, Castilla y León, Vino de la Tierra de Castilla y León (4/11/2020)
With scallion and truffled corn pizza. The 2011s are a little variable at this point and this one was slightly on the dissipated side, but only in comparison to the best bottles. Such a rich and interesting wine, great with so many foods, love the oxidative notes juxtaposed with the fresh acidity and clean fruit. Great balance, good mouthfeel. Raul Perez really is a genius, every wine he makes is very good, and the whites are great. What aromatics, even on a tinge less than perfect bottle.
Posted from CellarTracker
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