I think as the virus takes hold, it is becoming increasing obvious, that the wines I saved for a rainy day have come due. There have been a few threads to that effect, and I have raided my own cellar. Gone are the great older Bandols and a more variable group of Madirans all from the 1980s, lovingly collected by its importer. Almost gone are some my beloved older Domaine de Chevaliers, the rest are kept aside if things get worse.
So it is now time for reinforcements; I took a mixed case of the good stuff out of storage, three bottles each of my favorite producers, Togni, Tremblay, Magdelaine and Canon. I opened the Togni 1995 last night.
1995 is an underrated vintage, but in the hands of the master, it produced something really special. This was a wine that needed time in the decanter, and the first minute was all fruit. Gradually the wine’s complexity came through, spices, leather and cedar. Towards the end came the expected floral notes, but whether this was wish fulfillment because I was expecting them, I can’t be sure. My wife detected them and they are usually front and center in Togni wines. Overall, a complete and lovely wine, with a strong layered finish. Just short of the glorious 1997, I drank at beginning of the crisis. 95
Tonight is quiche, so will be drunk with Louis Roederer Champagne, but next up will be Domaine de Chevalier 1975, one of the six bottles to be consumed by a virtual wine group.
After the hurricane we used wine as therapy and it worked because it reinforced the sense of community and friendship. The issue with the current situation is that wine reinforces the opposite. We can’t get together to taste and drink and that sucks. In the middle of quarantine we had a 5.2 earthquake yesterday and that finally brought me over to your position. Screw it. No more sacred bottles.
In the meantime we are painting our doorways red to protect against future plagues. 2020 has been interesting.
Togni must have been nice. 1995 was only underrated by the 100 point scorers. I always viewed as a more structured version of 1994 which suits me just fine.
I did a similar thing with my sole bottle of Marcassin pinot (2003 Sonoma Coast) at the end of March. I was a little worried it might be too late but, at the same time, I couldn’t find a special enough occasion to open it. But given the current circumstances, I just decided to open it up with a nice salmon dinner. It wasn’t too late. It was drinking very nicely, and I have no regrets about the decision!
The time has come,’ the Walrus said,
To talk of many things:
Of shoes — and ships — and sealing-wax —
Of cabbages — and kings —
And why the sea is boiling hot —
And whether pigs have wings.’
The time has come, the Walrus said
To drink of many things:
Of Cabernet-and chardonnay,
of wine that really sings!
And why Pinot is so damn hot-
and why not Rieselings?
Mark, the 95 Togni is terrific. Thanks for the note. I also love the 95 Araujo Eisele Vineyard, which may be better than the 1994 Araujo. I have a few bottles of all three wines, so I may soon pull them from the cellar for a comparison.
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