After the Elio Sandri Nebbiolo last week I was just craving for another one. Never tried anything from Brovia before but the reputation is solid and this one makes me excited to try the Barolos. This is less rich than the Sandri but not necessarily any lesser a wine. The drinkability certainly is extremely (too?) high for a 14% ABV Nebbiolo. More than anything I get the feeling of very high class winemaking.
2016 Fratelli Brovia Nebbiolo d’Alba- Italy, Piedmont, Alba, Nebbiolo d’Alba (14.5.2020)
I don’t often comment on appearance but this is the most transparent Piemonte Nebbiolo I’ve seen in a while and I love it. The nose is somewhat restrained with notes of red cherry, orange peel, Christmas spices and a whiff of tar. Interestingly there is slight tartness to the fruit that combines nicely with a faint truffley note. I find the nose pretty and bright, in a most effortless manner. On the palate it is medium-bodied and on the lean side with very tasty and pure red fruit upfront. Showcases the lightest winemaker’s touch with silky, gently gripping tannins, no oak to speak of and long, seamless finish. This is a Burgundy drinker’s Nebbiolo if there ever was one - understated and unshowy, elegant with very few rough edges. I find this to be as honest a Nebbiolo d’Alba as they come, meaning it does not try to be a mini-Barolo and is all the better for it.
For sure, Oddero’s is good too. Haven’t had it in a while but remember it being somewhat sturdier than this one, although this one seemed to be putting on some weight towards the end.
Brovia is probably my favorite Langhe producer that I can still afford. Actually might be my favorite period. The Baroli rival the finest produced in the region IMO and the prices, although ticking upwards, are still fair. Rocche is the flagship Cru, but can be a bit difficult to source. Amongst the other 3 in the lineup it really is a vintage by vintage thing. Ca Mia (Brea Vineyard in Serralunga) probably rivals Rocche for top dog in most vintages, of course a completely different style though. I would then go Villero followed by Garblet Sue if I had to establish a pecking order. There is no weak link in the lineup however, definitely worth seeking out. Also I have no business connection to the Brovia wines to be transparent.
Thanks, interesting comments. To me it seems that they fly a bit under the radar considering how well regarded they are by many enthusiasts. When I bought this one I actually happened to grab two bottles of the 2013 straight Barolo too based on the vintage reputation. I got a discount but nevertheless the price of 32€/bottle seemed low.
I think they are definitely starting to get more popular. The places I’ve bought barolo 2016, Brovia was one of the first ones to be sold out across all their cru’s. They even sold out before Vietti, which received stunning reviews from AG. Producers such as Elio Grasso, Sandrone and A. Conterno are still available. So it would seem prices are still too low compared with perceived value.
Love Brovia. Their straight Nebbiolo d’Alba wines I’ve tried were labeled Valmaggione (vineyard). I think the sandy soils tend to produce a more approachable wine. The Nebbiolo d’Alba Valmaggione doesn’t see any oak.
I wonder if it is the same wine - where I bought the bottle they had a 2014 that stated Valmaggione and the 2015 and 2016 that did not. Pricing was almost identical for all three.