Along with Dirk Niepoort, António Maçanita is, in my opinion, the most interesting and provocative oenologist currently working in Portugal. He has two major ongoing projects: Fitapreta, in Alentejo, where his quirky, refreshing wines stand in direct contrast to the powerful, unctuous Alicante Bouschet reds that are the region’s flagbearer, and the Azores Wine Company, through which he has almost singlehandedly revitalized winemaking in the Azores and crafted wines from near extinct grape varieties in a soil both deeply volcanic and Atlantic - at a heftier price, given the local price for grapes (4€ each kilogram, in contrast to an average of 0.50€ in the Douro).
I’ve revisited three of his creations these past two days:
O Tinto do Pote de Barro 2018
1957 bottles were produced in this item of Maçanita’s ‘Signature Series’, a sub-portfolio in which creativity takes the front seat over balance. Translating to ‘the red wine from the clay pot’, this is a ‘talha’ (amphora) wine - a tradition in Alentejo harking back to Roman times - which, for undisclosed reasons, was forbidden to be marketed and sold as a talha wine by the criteria of the region’s overseeing comission.
Made of a blend of old vines, this does screams talha in every direction. The nose is earthy and rustic, though full of vibrant cherry. Unlike in many other talhas I’ve tasted, the wet cellar and clay profile is unashamedly dominant in the mouth, with pronounced acidity and wild red berry fruitiness balancing out what would otherwise be indiscreet alcohol levels. When compared to the more famous talha wines by Herdade do Rocim this is definitely defiant and provocative, though it did make itself more cooperative with food.
A Laranja Mecânica 2018
Another limited edition - 2356 bottles - of Maçanita’s take on the orange wine: doubly pressed, with a 7 day maceration inbetween. It is worlds away, however, from the funky, opaque orange natural wines I have tried before. It’s transparent, pure and chiseled despite its amber color: tangerine zest, quince and a vague honey trail on the nose, medium acidity, with a balanced yet slightly tart mouth of persimmon and golden berries, and an afterglow that reminds me of toned down whiskey. It would be truly terrific were it not for a certain lack of persistance and length in the aftertaste, though this is still a worthy alternate companion to dishes that typically ask for a structured, oaked white (we paired this with salted cod).
Fitapreta Branco 2018
This is the entry level white in Fitapreta’s Terroir series, which express the peculiarities of specific vines. Two were sourced for this wine: Vinha de Nora, grown biologically since 2015, and Vinha do Vale do Cepo. Together these are a blend of Roupeiro, Rabo de Ovelha, Arinto, Tamarez and Alicante Branco.
If there’s any fault to this wine, it’s that it doesn’t taste like an entry level. The nose is wide and generous, simultaneously fresh and seductively sweet, with lemon meringue and ripe apricot on display and a focused, alcoholic afterglow which gives off a hint of anise and gravel. The mouth is zesty and abundant, with racy, mouthwatering acidity. An unbelievable bargain at 10,80€, with half of the proceeds from Fitapreta sales going to the Portuguese Red Cross during the current pandemic crisis.